Progress Thread 93 Storm Trooper GT: The snail, fire, and not-so-extreme wires

rdharper02

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These little beauties came from multiple locations last night. They look well made, and actually fit all the dimensions required. The additional plus is that they are treaded so you can completely remove the poly lock from the top of the adjuster. Sounds silly, but that feature could have been useful in knowing that the adjustment issue we were having on one cylinder was not caused by the poly lock. They're in now, so we will button up the intake after I address the connector less orange ground wire we found last night.
 

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jrichker

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They're in now, so we will button up the intake after I address the connector less orange ground wire we found last night.
That's the ground wire for the O2 sensors; it's one of the most critical grounds in the whole car. No ground on that baby and you get weird fuel mixture problems that are hard to trace and diagnose.
 

rdharper02

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That's the ground wire for the O2 sensors; it's one of the most critical grounds in the whole car. No ground on that baby and you get weird fuel mixture problems that are hard to trace and diagnose.
Well, she got grounded last night, only to find my BBK fuel rail was leaking at the infeed.
 

rdharper02

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So we made sure the fuel safe gunk had set, double checked the valves, plug gaps, brought it back up to tdc, and buttoned everything up. Turn the key and she fires. Sounds great, but as I'm attempting to set fuel pressure I noticed the TPS was left unplugged. Should it have even started? Anyway, went to set my fpr with the vacuum off and can't seem to get it below about 55lbs? After almost removing the set screw, with no luck, coolant started pooring on the garage floor. Shut it down. Realize this moron didn't put the radiator cap on all the way, and attempted to re-fire. Not only did she say "no," but " F no!" WTH???
 
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rdharper02

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Still have to figure out the FPR not going below 50+lbs, but was able to make slight headway after returning from a doctor's visit. So the timing is set at 10 degrees locked and we were able to shut it down and restart it. As a test, we shut it down a third time after it ran awhile. No Bueno, no start. At the very least we know we have some sort of heat condition. I also heard an odd external noise right before shutting it down. We'll have o troubleshoot both tomorrow.

Amazon was able to deliver the resistors I ordered, so pulled the computer to look at the three resistors that tend to go south. Two of them were suspect with something like flux flowing out of the canister. So I've replaced all three since the soldering iron and de-soldering tool were hot.

Computer.jpg
 

rdharper02

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Next time you have the no start condition hit it with a quick shot of starting fluid, that will till you fuel or ignition related.
Appreciate it, but have verified both.

Well now it starts right up. I've tested the MSD ignition with the new Accell plug wires and it all works well. The old radiator cap did not, but I had the better half grab another. Major problem now is that I have a metallic sound when it reaches temperature, on the passenger side. Making it harder is that the HP kit places the turbo on this side, so it makes it even more difficult to track down. We're going to pull the intake (5th time) and the valve cover and see if we find anything. Hopefully it's not knocking masked by everything masking noise on that side.
 
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rdharper02

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So, we pulled the intake, checked the valves, and even put the bore camera in cylinder one. The noise appears to be from one of the front two cylinders, but the turbo piping allows noise to travel. It almost sounds like a nut fluttering around in the piping. The current plan is to drop the oil to see if she's eating herself internally, then remove the turbo and run through it. I'm running out of ideas.

On another note, took yesterday off and had the daughter to ask to spend today with me. Hopefully I'm up to getting at it tomorrow.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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So, we pulled the intake, checked the valves, and even put the bore camera in cylinder one. The noise appears to be from one of the front two cylinders, but the turbo piping allows noise to travel. It almost sounds like a nut fluttering around in the piping. The current plan is to drop the oil to see if she's eating herself internally, then remove the turbo and run through it. I'm running out of ideas.

On another note, took yesterday off and had the daughter to ask to spend today with me. Hopefully I'm up to getting at it tomorrow.
Now why would you do that? The oil filter will tell you all you need to know if you have something hitting on something or a bearing coming apart.

The turbo impeller should only move in/out slightly, you should not be able to get it to move up/dn at all though. If something is making contact in that turbo, it wont last long, so up/dn movement is critical.
 

90sickfox

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I had that same issue from the o2 sensor plugs in the on3 piping. It's amazing how that sound travels in a pipe. I though something in the engine was loose or there was something in the pipes. It was the plug in the crossover tube wasn't tight.
 
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rdharper02

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Now why would you do that? The oil filter will tell you all you need to know if you have something hitting on something or a bearing coming apart.

The turbo impeller should only move in/out slightly, you should not be able to get it to move up/dn at all though. If something is making contact in that turbo, it wont last long, so up/dn movement is critical.
Noted, and advice taken Mike. So I pulled the filter today and was greeted by some House of Colors pearl out the initial oil in the filter. Not super excited ...yet.
house of colors.jpg


Get a little more into it and drain a bit more out of the filter. Wow...pretty.
pan oil.jpg


Now, either the inside of the filter has a thing for glitter, or I have a problem.
filter element.jpg


I'm about 95% sure I could pull the bottom end and find bearing damage. So guess I need to look into short block options at this point. It looks like I'll be getting some radiation treatment next week, so it will be several weeks before I can get around well enough to pull the engine. Anyone with suggestions on a decent short block supplier in Florida?
 

rdharper02

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Some of that is engine start up crud from a not too clean engine..besides. I dont know if you can describe a bad bearing noise as a high pitched ring like you're describing.
I agree and think I'm dealing with more than one issue. I could get over metallic crud on initial breakdown, but am more worried about the amount of non-magnetic material (read bearing aluminum) in the filter. Add that to the smell of gas from the oil, and I'm sure another short block or machining will enter the picture. Om the second problem involving the noise. I'm running Autolite 3923s which should be two steps colder than stock. I just had one of my turbo buddies say I should be running 3922s and that I am likely hearing excess fuel detonating in the passenger manifold...? I don't know if it's true, but it makes me want to take a chance, drop my oil for new, and try and troubleshoot it.
 
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7991LXnSHO

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Radiation treatments are a big PITA. Even the chemo drugs they also prescribe for rheumatological conditions stink. I’ll probably have time to catch up on the thread while you are recovering To see if there is anything useful I can pitch in.
I hope it is an easy treatment and bounce back cycle for you!
 

rdharper02

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Radiation treatments are a big PITA. Even the chemo drugs they also prescribe for rheumatological conditions stink. I’ll probably have time to catch up on the thread while you are recovering To see if there is anything useful I can pitch in.
I hope it is an easy treatment and bounce back cycle for you!
Much appreciated. This will be the second time around for us. Great people working with me and supporting me, so the only complaint I have is that I won't be able to actually taste food for a month or so...lol.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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rdharper02

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It's like a Superbird, Pinto and Davinci had a love child.
 
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