94-04 Running Wires from 4 Channel Amp to Aftermarket Door Speakers

skratpiece9450

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Jan 17, 2004
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94-04 Running Wires from 4 Channel Amp to Aftermarket Door Speakers
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I need details. How do I run 16 guage wire to the door speakers? There is a rubber grommet between the door and the car. I have been told that there is a level of difficulty because of a plastic "MOXLEY PLUG". Has anyone performed this during the install of their interior components?

I am eliminating all of the interior components in my 2004 Cobra with the Mach System. I am running a 4 channel amp to all 4 interior Infinity Reference speakers
 
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Yeah, that is a pain to run new wire to the doors. Honestly, I Just used the the old speaker wire and it sounded fine to me. I did this in my old 96 Mustang that had 460 in it. I ran a 4 channel Alpine amp to Alpine Reference Speakers in the doors and rear deck.
 
How did you get power from aftermarket amp to factory wires?

I am responding to the previous post.

You say that it was a pain so you decided to run your 4 channel amp to the factory wires, instead of running wire through the door to your aftermarket speakers.

I'm sure it did sound fine.

Now the question becomes how did you put your 4 channel amplifier's power to the factory speaker wire?


To clarify. How did you get power from aftermarket amp to factory wires?
 
The way I install 4 channel amps is that I run the speaker wires from the 4 channel amp up to the radio harness in the dash and connect them to the factory speaker wires there. On your 04 there is no amp for the tweeters so when you install your new door speakers you need to hook them up to the factory tweeter wires in the door, not the wires that go to the 5x7 speakers. When you remove the factory speaker pod thing below the rear deck you will need to also connect the new rear speakers to the factory tweeter wires. This way the entire factory amplified system is still in tact if you ever decide to put all the stock equipment back in the vehicle. Another reason that I do this is so I can run all my RCA cables, speaker wires and remote turn on lead together from the head unit area to the new 4 channel amp, greatly cutting down on install time. Hope all this makes sense and helps out.
 
2004 Mach. Amping the door speakers and tweeters.

Hopefully I don't confuse you with all of this. I need help. Call me at 401-286-3363. If you can answer the highlighted questions I should be allright.

Here is how I understand the 2004 MACH System. Please correct me where I am wrong...
-The Head unit sends signal to the amps to power the (4) 5x7 and the tweeters but does so seperately.
- The tweeters do run seperately from the 5x7's.
-If I was to disconnect all (4) 5x7's the tweeters would still play because they are powered seperately.
-My idea was to power the 5x7's with the 4 channel and to run wire from the Kenwood Harness (22rms) all the way to the tweeters.

Here is where I am confused.When replacing the mach system...

-Did you use an amplifier integration kit that retains the factory amps or did you bypass?
-When you ran your 4 channel directly to the factory connection in the dash where did you connect it your 8 wires?
-After you connected the 8 wires, how did the unamplifed signal get to the the speakers without going through the factory amplifiers?
-When connecting the 8 wires to the factory connection is there any way that the signal will get to the 5x7's without the factory amplifiers?


Good advice. But this leaves me confused. Are you sure that there is not a seperate amp for the tweeters? I thought that the there was an amplifier for the tweeters. So the tweeters piggyback the power from the 5x7?
 
I am eliminating all of the interior components in my 2004 Cobra with the Mach System. I am running a 4 channel amp to all 4 interior Infinity Reference speakers

I assumed you were trashing the entire Mach system which is what I did in my old 96 Mustang. Meaning, no Mach Speakers, Mach Amps or Mach Head Unit.

As for custom wiring a Mach/Aftermarket setup, that's one headache I won't tackle. The farthest I have ever gotten was just adding a subwoofer to my Mach 460 system in my 04'.

This link may provide some insight in deciphering the engima that is the Mach 460 sytem.

http://www.flemworld.com/Mach460/mach.html
 
-Did you use an amplifier integration kit that retains the factory amps or did you bypass?
-When you ran your 4 channel directly to the factory connection in the dash where did you connect it your 8 wires?
-After you connected the 8 wires, how did the unamplifed signal get to the the speakers without going through the factory amplifiers?
-When connecting the 8 wires to the factory connection is there any way that the signal will get to the 5x7's without the factory amplifiers?


QUOTE]

In the Mach 460 system in the 2004 Mustangs, there are TWO amplifiers, both mounted on the rear speaker pod. One of the amplifiers powers the front "woofers" and the other powers the rear "woofers" All 4 tweeters are powered by the internal amplifier of the stock radio. In my 2003 Cobra I gutted ALL factory components, (radio, speakers, amps, rear speaker pod).

I do not recommend using the new CD palyer to run the tweeters. It would help me to know exactly what Infinity reference speakers you are using, (coaxials, component set, actual part #'s) The factory tweeters have no crossovers or bass blockers on them so if you run the Kenwood deck internal amp to them they will distort at a very low volume. If you use only the new Infinity speakers and the new 4 channel amp you will get the best possible sound.

When installing a new deck into the car you will need a harness that plugs into the factory radio plug. (Metra part # 70-5520) This harness is wired to the harness that comes with the new radio that you are installing. The only wires that you will need to connect are as follows: Yellow (12 volts constant), Red (12 volts switched), Black (ground). On the Metra harness you will have 8 speaker wires (white, white/black, gray, gray/black, green, green/black, purple, purple/black). These are the 8 speaker wires that you will connect to the 8 speaker wires that you will run from the AFTERMARKET 4 channel amp. Here is a picture of the metra harness.

View attachment 330701

Here are two basic diagrams that I drew up, both show the same thing but one might be easier to understand. This is only showing the speaker wires and the yellow, red, black wires needed to hook up the new CD player. There will be more wires on the Metra plug but they are not needed to complete this install.

DSC00097.jpg


DSC00099.jpg



You will also need to run 2 pairs of RCA cables and the remote turn on wire (blue with white stripe) from the new radio to the amplifier. Here is a basic diagram of that.

DSC00100.jpg



Remember that when installing your new speakers the you MUST hook them up to the factory wires that were connected to the stock tweeters or you will have no sound.

To answer your final question, the only way to get signal to the wires that go directly to the factory 5x7's you would need to splice into the harnesses that are plugged into the two factory amplifiers in the trunk of the car. I do not recommend this as it is a lot more work than doing the method I use.

I didn't mention and you may already know but you will need a dash kit to install the rew radio. It is Metra part # 99-5026. Here is a picture.

99-5026.jpg


Here are a few tips that may make the install go smoother and sound better when completed.

Run your 2 pairs of RCAs, remote turn on wire, and 4 pairs of speaker wires together from the radio location down the passenger side of the vehicle to the area that you are mounting the new amplifier. (I installed mine on the back of the rear seat). I use 5 meter RCA cables and leave about 12" of excess length in the dash so it is easier to plug everything in before you mount the new radio.

Use a good quality amp power kit (Streetwires, Kicker, JL Audio, Stinger). Also don't go cheap on the RCA's, it actually does make a noticeable difference. Depending on the size of the amplifier, I always use at least 8 guage power wire.

Run the power wire from the battery through the firewall down the drivers side of the vehicle to the amp location. You MUST have a fuse usually within 12" of the battery, and I always leave excess power wire coiled up under the rear seat so if I ever move the amp to a different location further from the battery I won't have to re-run a longer cable. Also you should never run the power wire next to RCA cables, as this can cause unwanted noise in the system. Here is a picture of where I drilled a hole in my firewall for my power cable. Pic is taken from the inside.

DSC00052.jpg


The ground cable MUST be of the same size as the power cable, and should be kept as short as possible. When choosing a grounding spot, make sure to scrape the paint away from the area that the ring terminal will be touching. I used one of the large bolts that holds the seatbelt under the rear seat.

I have been a MECP certified installer for 11 years and this is how I do 90% of my amp installs, and this is how I do ALL of them in the Mustangs that have the newer Mach 460 system. If you have any additional questions just ask, I will check here again tomorrow.
 
Good write up. I appreciate your time. I hope alot of people with concerns review this stuff but I am still unsure of a couple things...

1.) When you say " You MUST hook them up to the factory wires that were connected to the stock tweeters or you will have no sound." I think what you are saying is...

When directing power from your aftermarket 4 channel amp through the metra harness this will power the tweeters only. Thus, you must connect the 5x7's into the tweeter wire to get power? Is that correct? Did you use speaker wire to connect the tweeters to the 5x7's?

2.)If so, because there are 2 speakers on the same circuit doesn't this change the impedence from 4 ohms to 2 ohms?

3.) Two Options. Which is better...
a. Running the aftermarket 4 channel amp through the metra harness, or
b. Running 16 guage directly to the 5x7 3 way Infinity reference and seperately powering the factory tweeters WITH BASS BLOCKERS from the Kenwood 22rms?

Thanks alot. Here is a diagram of what I had in mind.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...&friendID=29805848&albumID=0&imageID=26673191
 
You are correct with hooking up the speaker to the tweeter wire. Simply run a short piece of speaker wire from the new speaker up to the location where the factory tweeter plugs into the factory wire. You will disconnect the factory tweeter, and only hook up the new speaker maintaining 4 ohms. When you get the door panel off this will be quite obvious what I am talking about. You CAN run the stock tweeter off the new deck with bass blockers, but I've tried this many times and I really don't suggest it. Once you install the new speakers, you will quickly realize that the factory paper cone tweeters don't sound very good, and I've also seen the internal amp on some radios cut out when using bass blockers. In my opinion, you will get better sound by getting rid of all the factory speakers. If you are using 3 way 5x7's, you really don't need more tweeters.

If I had to chose one of your options I would go with (a) as this will sound better.