94 Gt won't start

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Gino 12689, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. Hey guys, just a quick question:

    Tonight as I was leaving work, my Mustang would not turn over. I turned the key many times and got nothing, no clicking or cranking at all. My dad and I managed to roll it and pop the clutch, which fired it right up, and it rode home completely fine. When I got to my driveway, I shut it down and started it right back up without any problems. Granted, I know it was warm at that point, but this just seemed odd to me.

    This came out of no where, and the car has been fine until tonight. It has 89,000 miles on it, and the starter was replaced at 40,000. I also just replaced the battery in June. Is there any way it might need another starter? Or could it just be the solenoid?
  2. It could be the starter, I haven't had this problem in a number of years and I can't seem to remember my solution, but I would start there.
  3. Tell us what happens in the morning. The no clicking sounds like a battery issue as one can usually hear the solenoid engage.
  4. I agree with needing more info. Most likely it's a bad/dirty power connection.
  5. Did you even try jumping the car? That would at least tell you if your battery was bad or not.
  6. Batteries commonly sit on store's shelves for a while. You could have bought a battery that was 3 years old, but had never been used. If you had a cold snap the night your car wouldn't start, a cell in your battery might have gone bad.

    Also, check under your distributor cap and check for corrosion. I had a corroded cap keep my GT form starting, but that was the reverse issue of yours - it wouldn't start when warm, but would start when cold. It's unlikely to be the problem, but worth a look.
  7. Just an update guys:

    The car fired right up this morning after sitting all night with no issues at all, and I was able to run around today no problem. However, as soon as I'm leaving from work, it doesn't want to start. I pop started it again and it ran normal and I got it back home, but now it refuses to start even after being warm.

    I don't think it's a battery issue, as all the accessories, lights, and power windows still work fine when the key is turned to "On". Plus, I was sure to look at the manufacture date of the battery I bought, and it was manufactured this year.

    When I turn the key, it's like trying to start the car without the clutch pushed in- no crank, click, or anything at all. Like I said, the original owner had a new starter put in at 40,000 and now it has 89,000, so I'm wondering if the starter is shot again, or the solenoid is crap.

    Any suggestions guys? I saw someone suggested a dirty power connection, so I'll go from there. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  8. Still a real good chance it's the connections.

    When it won't crank, put a jumper battery on it and see if it fires up. If it does, you know it's the battery or the cable connections (the jumper cable will circumvent the battery-to-cable connection since you clamp to the cable's connector). This will rule out your starter and the interlock wiring.

    A bad negative battery connection or weak battery can act just like the issue you're having. The connection is too resistive till you crank it several times or break through the surface resistance another way (after a compression start). A starter draws well over 100 amps, whereas lights draw 20 amps. A weak battery can illuminate lights but not have the current (amps) to energize a starter.

    If you look at your cables, remember that they often rot from the inside out. Look/feel for brittleness in the cable.
  9. Another update:

    Fired right up this morning, and had the battery and alternator tested today at Autozone, battery is still brand new and the alternator is completely fine. I shut it off when I got to Autozone and it wouldn't restart. While the kid at Autozone was testing my battery, he noticed the motor wouldn't pull any charge when I tried starting it. I let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it turned right over no problem.

    Starter and solenoid are fine as well. The guys at Autozone believed it could be the ignition control box, or a loose wire perhaps leading to the starter from the battery. Seeing as it fires up every morning after sitting all night, I think it has to do with being warm.

    I plan on looking at everything Sunday night, so I'll be sure to get back on and let you guys know what it was as soon as I find out.
  10. Have you thoroughly checked your terminals and battery cables? If it has a bad connection, the car won't pull any amps either while you try to start it. This sounds like classic symptoms of a bad battery connection. You should have had the guy wiggle the terminals around while you tried to start it (unless you did that of course).

    One thing I've learned about these cars is this; about 99% of the time the problems with these cars turns out to be something so simple and obvious. We always seem to think the worse and it doesn't help when you come on forums and people start rattling off text book and almost automated fixes starting with the most technical systems on the car.

    Forget all that, always start with the simple things and work from there...you'd be suprised how often it's something easy to fix! I'd start with those terminals. Try cutting back some of the insulation to take a peek at the condition of wire itself.
  11. Check the connections on the starter, and make sure they are good. Next I would check the ground cable from the battery to the block. The cable mounts to the engine on the front driver's side. The last time I had this problem, it was the ignition switch under the column that went bad. If nothing else is bad, you are going to need to test the start circuit to the starter. Unfortunately, you will have to wait until it's not working. You are going to need a test light, or a volt gauge, and check it from the lead at the solenoid on the starter. Another way to do it is to wait until the car won't start, then go down to the starter, and bridge the terminal from the hot lead direct to the start lead. If you have a manual transmission car, then there is a switch on the clutch pedal that won't allow it to start unless the clutch is pushed in. The switch could be busted. If you have an auto car, then there is another safety switch that will keep it from starting unless the transmission is in park or neutral. That switch could be broken.

  12. Final update:

    It was indeed the starter afterall. Bought a replacement on Monday and now the car is fine.

    Thanks again for the help guys.