Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Vortech V3 Build

Essn95

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Jun 21, 2017
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I'd look into the cost of the tools, and also take your time into account... You might never use those tools again, and if you get it wrong even a little it will ruin the gears. That's one of the few jobs I elected to pay someone to do, but I think he only charged me like $225 or so.
If it was $225 I would most definitely send it to a shop. From what I see, the only specialty tools I will need would be the mag-base indicator and the rotational torque wrench. Rest of the specialty tools are available via rental at local parts store. On one hand it would be nice to drop it off at a shop and pick it up the next day ready to go, but budget is tight and a little extra experience is always nice.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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If it was $225 I would most definitely send it to a shop. From what I see, the only specialty tools I will need would be the mag-base indicator and the rotational torque wrench. Rest of the specialty tools are available via rental at local parts store. On one hand it would be nice to drop it off at a shop and pick it up the next day ready to go, but budget is tight and a little extra experience is always nice.
Check out the Eric the Car Guy series on YouTube for rebuilding an 8.8. Excellent videos that helped me a great deal when I tackled this job on my own, without ever doing it before. It’s do-able….. just take your time.
You will need a shop press though, unless you already have access to one somewhere.
 

Essn95

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Check out the Eric the Car Guy series on YouTube for rebuilding an 8.8. Excellent videos that helped me a great deal when I tackled this job on my own, without ever doing it before. It’s do-able….. just take your time.
You will need a shop press though, unless you already have access to one somewhere.
Have one at my disposal on UCF campus at our SAE garage. Thank you for the reference, will take a look at those videos!
 
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Essn95

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The goodies! Wanted a set of the ceramic BBK headers but they are out of stock and on back order. If they pop up before I get to install these I will exchange. Sticking with shorties to keep my catted x pipe.
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Essn95

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Check out what others are running for gears with similar stuff you plan to add, sometimes more hp does not need more gear.
My thoughts behind 3.75 vs 3.55 came down to the fact that I do almost no highway driving and even then the difference comes down to about 200 [email protected] 70mph. The centri blower will make power with rpm so the quicker I get into that powerband, the quicker I will make boost and get moving. My setup will be similar to this fox and I love how wild it is even down-low.
 
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Essn95

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Picked up a speedcal from LMR to correct my speedo after the 3.73 But need some confirmation on the wiring portion. The wiring instructions entails:
  • Red Wire: + 12 volts, ignition on
  • Black Wire: Ground
  • White Wire: Signal in from the speed sensor
  • Blue Wire: Signal out to the ECM/Speedometer

and from my digging I see that we have the grey wire and pink/orange connecting to the speed sensor. My question is would the positive polarity wire be the one I need to splice this box in-line to in order to take input from the VSS and then output to the ECM/speedo?​

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Essn95

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Pulled the hardtop off this morning, the paint, rubber and upholstery were really suffering in the FL sun unfortunately. Will miss the coupe look but will enjoy the top down experience
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Essn95

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All washed up rocking her new look. Passenger quarter window fell out of the track, will need to pick up some silicone to get it back in there this weekend. Any recommendations?
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Essn95

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Well she had her first tow truck ride, car lost all power while pulling out of a parking lot. Battery tested good. As of now acc power will come on but when you go to crank the car loses power. My bet is on ignition switch or an issue in the ground. Will troubleshoot later in the week.
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WhiteCobra95

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Oh man! Sorry to hear that. Those are never fun.

Was it hot when this happened? Did you hear any clicking like the starter solenoid engaging? I wonder if the starter motor has tapped-out.
 

Essn95

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Oh man! Sorry to hear that. Those are never fun.

Was it hot when this happened? Did you hear any clicking like the starter solenoid engaging? I wonder if the starter motor has tapped-out.
Motor was stone cold. At first the windows were down when it lsot power but a few hours later I was able to get ignition power to roll them up. I do hear one click when I go to crank car and then all power to car is lost. That’s what moves me away from starter.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Sounds like a bad battery or connection, you know what to do.
first see if it will jump start, or charge the battery for a while, I know you gots a dvm, so get to work :jester:
 

Essn95

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Sounds like a bad battery or connection, you know what to do.
first see if it will jump start, or charge the battery for a while, I know you gots a dvm, so get to work :jester:
Luckily I was at work sk had a few tools to test the basic stuff. Battery checked out and jump start did nothing. Leaning towards bad connection so it wouldn’t matter if voltage was good if it’s not getting to where it needed to be. Always keep this in the car as a safety, solid junk starter for only $70 on Amazon. Has saved myself and others a few times on the road.
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Essn95

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You know the battery can read good but if a load is applied it can drop like a rock.
Good point, I would hope it is not that as that battery is only 5 months old. A load test will be in order. It should still be able to supply enough power for the dome lights and chime when the door is open. Car was completely in the dark, not a lick of power
 

Essn95

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Bypassed the battery completely and hooked the jumper cables up the the battery cables. Car cranked but not enough juice to start, didn’t die like it did through the battery.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Has to be a connection somewhere, right? Sounds like you’re getting close!
That’s a nice looking ride with those FR500’s! Contemplated them for mine, but the 17’s were eternally out of stock at LMR, and I got tired of waiting!
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
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Motor was stone cold. At first the windows were down when it lsot power but a few hours later I was able to get ignition power to roll them up. I do hear one click when I go to crank car and then all power to car is lost. That’s what moves me away from starter.
The click when cranking is what I heard on my old 95 GT when it wouldn't start. However, in my case it wouldn't start when warm but would when the engine cooled off enough. Tuned out to be simple corrosion under the distributor cap, and a new cap & rotor fixed it.

I tried out those little jumper boxes, and I couldn't find one that could provide enough juice to turn the engine over when the battery was nearly empty. I'm surprised to hear yours had worked for you. Maybe try jumping with another car, as a test?