95 Mustang GT stalls/dies, already replaced TFI and Dizzy

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by acstctws, Apr 30, 2006.

  1. My 95 Mustang GT with 95000 miles sometimes dies while I'm driving. I already had the TFI and distributor replaced. The code from the computer said PIP failure, which I read means that the stator is bad, so the entire distributor was replaced rather than just the stator (replaced with a remanufactured Ford distributor).

    There are no mods done to my car other than Flowmaster 40 series exaust and a K&N filter. It doesn't always die, but it usually does after I've been driving for a while (20-30 mins or so), and has so far always started back up after it cools down for 30-40 mins. After it dies, it still cranks (slower than normal) but won't spark. I'm not sure what else to do! I've researched on this and other forums and have a list of possible things that people have said could be bad:

    -Fuel pump/Filter
    -Ignition Switch
    -Battery Connections (Bad or loose ground)
    -EEC Power Relay (not sure what that is)
    -MAF Sensor (may need to be cleaned)
    -CCRM or SCT chip????? not sure what those are
    -Relay under the hood, in black box by battery
    -TB/IAC cleaning

    Any input on any of those things, or any other, than may be causing my problem would be very much appreciated!! Thanks!
  2. have you gone to see if your tossing any codes since the dizzy replacement?

    I would start with cleaning the MAF...esp. with a K&N or any other cott. oil filter.

    I would also look at ground wires and batt. connections for corrosion/rust/poor connection.
  3. my 95 gt with 90k miles has been doing the same thing but only during really hot weather and mostly when i crank up and shift into reverse or drive. most everyone said clean iac ,intake body, maf sensor, and adjust tps. also said it could be fuel pump breaking down. gonna clean everything this weekend and will let u know how it helps.if that dont work im changing filter and upgrading pump.
  4. You said you dont have spark when it acts up, right? Do you have injector pulsing? A noid light is used for this test and will help decipher if the issue is ignition-related alone, or the PIP. Noting fuel pressure when it craps out is also good. It wont necessarily be related (at all) but it's something to rule out (if you are lacking FP, there are multiple issues at hand, or something deep in the wiring pathways).

    You should have 12 volts with the key on at the positive ignition coil terminal. The ground to the coil is pulsed from the TFI.

    EEC power relay. If you hear solenoids clicking, the FP kick on and prime, the EEC relay should be alright. It powers most of the engine management, so when it goes, half the stuff under the hood takes a dump.

    Battery connections shouldnt be it if the car cranks.

    Maf wont take out spark AFAIK. Unplug it to see what happens if in doubt.

    CCRM is the black box on the overflow bracket. If it loses a relay (it controls fan speeds, fuel pump, WOT relay, etc), that could be problematic.

    TB cleaning wont make spark come back.

    Check all fuses under the hood and inside the car.

    The issue definately sounds electronically related, given the heat issue. Older fox TFI's were designed to withstand a critical heat component of 257*F, as I recall. I dont know about the 5N95 TFI, but since it's remote mounted it shouldnt want to bake as fast.............. I have tested such things by applying an ice pack to the component and seeing if spark comes right back once you cool it down. This works for the TFI, coil etc. Just do them one at a time so you can find a cause if it starts.

    Pulling the codes is the place to start, no doubt. Once you do that, post them back up. And if you didnt clear them from before (before you replaced parts), note them, clear them, drive it some, and repull them (so we arent chasing old codes that are no longer valid).

    A little more diagnostics will help you narrow it down, while providing us more info to try and help in that endeavor.

    Good luck.
  5. It sounds like your dropping power at your relay pack and when the relay cools it stops sticking and your on your way again. If you do the running test with the tester in your service port let the car idle till the condition happens and you will get pointed to the correct relay. I have found this problem for others and it was the fuel pump relay.
  6. I just went through the exact same thing.Car just stalls like you turned of the key,5-7 minutes later I could start it again but it would stall after 20-30 min.I did the same research and learned of the ccrm reffered to at ford as a multi relay control module.Replaced it to no avail.Learned of the hall sensor in the distributor and replaced it with a new msd 8455.Same problem.I even replaced the pcm thinking the injector drivers went bad.All the scan was showing other than what i already knew about was a bad temp. sensor?So I replaced it to no avail.Anyways,I cant see how this can help cause your car is mostly stock.I narrowed it down to my jacobs igniton.I swapped it out for a msd box and not only did I gain a crap load more power,but the car starts and runs better than ever.Perhaps someone else can use this knowledge to narrow it down and help.I replaced every dang sensor I could think of and was really at whits end with this problem untill I replaced my ignition box.Maybe I just bypassed the problem and havent really fixed it?I hope this isnt the case,and I hope you can come up with a much cheaper solution than I did.
  7. I had the same problem with my car a while back, replaced the pickup coil and all was good. Did you transfer any parts from your old distributor to the new one?