96-98 Cobra HP question

Discussion in 'SVT Tech Forum' started by ironmedic, Aug 15, 2004.

  1. i noticed a couple people who own cobras in this year range having less than 300hp on their cars and i was wondering the REAL HP numbers of these cobras?
  2. Are you talking about crank HP or at the wheels? Most 96-98 Cobras dyno between 255 - 260 HP at the wheels so that works out to 305 at the crank exactly what they are rated at from the factory.
  3. yeah i meant to the wheels, im not totally sure how much HP is lost through the drive system to the rear wheels so i was just trying to figure out the average :)
  4. if it'll help mine dynoed to the wheels with 275hp and 278 ft-tq. That's with just an off-road h-pipe and MAC cat back system, and K&N with the air snorkel removed.
  5. my #'s are close to the same as above.
  6. Figure 15-%18 loss of hp through the drivetrain

    I had 266 RWHP on mine when it was stock. I haven't been since I added my current combo.

    Your typically only going to see over 300 RWHP if the car is making over 355hp at the crank unless your looking at a IRS setup which tends to soak up more hp than a live axle. LS1 Vettes tend to dyno less to the ground than a LS1 Fbody.
  7. a couple guys at the dealership tried to make me believe the car had 300hp to the wheels and im like NOOOOOOOOOOO and they are like YESSSSSSSSS and im like "you are on crack, go back to selling mazdas".
  8. My 96 was sitting at 305rwhp....

    But that was with

    Long tubes - cats
    hot fire wires

    Mind you, I also ran TR-6 plugs which would reduce power a tad.
  9. so do u think those mods would clear the gap in RWHP? im planning on working on my exhaust anyways along with 3.73's. i wanna try long tubes, catted X/H pipe, and probably an SLP loudmouth kit.

    how hard is it to install long tubes on a 4.6? i know they are a PITA on 5.0's.
  10. Installing long tubes ...... They are FUN ...... lol

    You need to use either an engine bay support brace or a cherry picker. I used a picker.

    Drop K member

    Then the world opens up - lower the engine 3 inches and you can easily get your hands on all header bolts.

    Then it's pretty much straight forward. Anyway ..... if you have done anything like this before and you know what you are doing, it will take about 7-8 hours.

    If you do "All" the bolt ons you will be OVER 300 for sure!
  11. Don't go with 3:73's unless your going to go forced induction. Either go 4:10's or 4:30's.

    Don't Fear the Gear.
  12. i plan on going with a supercharger later so i am gonna stick with 3.73's. they will be better for my car anyways. i do alot of city and highway driving.

    a speed shop here quoted me for $600-700 for all parts (including the gears) and install. does that sound like a fair price? they will include all hardware needed for the swap as well as axle fluid.
  13. NO WAY.... That is horrible. You can do much better than that. You can get the gears for around 150 - 175. Then the installation should not be that much. Maybe 200 - 250. You need to look around. Buy the parts yourself. You will save money that way.
  14. yeah i was looking into buying them myself. the speed shop says it would take them 6 hours to change them including all the measurements. i am probably gonna stay away from them for service other than dynos. they do $95 an hour and they can get at least 5 pulls in an hour.
  15. Whats up man i didn't know you were on stangnet. :nice:

    How much hp you guys think a 99 4v with LTs/full exhaust with a/c delete put down?