Progress Thread 96pushrods 347 build - Dyno results in!!

Also figured out a solution to the sway bar interference. I bought some steel bar to extend the sway bar, then my buddy suggested just making drop mounts. I went for the drop mounts.

Before

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After

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On another note, I feel sorry for any poor bastard who has to do a steering rack in their driveway lol. I couldn’t imagine having to do it without a lift and the engine out.
 
Spent a good amount of time today looking for a ribbed idler pulley to do my ps and ac delete. Finally tracked one down.

Also did some odds and ends stuff, tfi, pcv and what not. Still awaiting some long tubes :mad:

Also, had to clearance the valve covers for the alternator. I knew beating on cast aluminum wasn’t a good idea, I did it anyways :cool:

Turns out I was right. Oh well, nothing a couple beads and some wrinkle black touch up can’t fix. Thank god my buddy is good at welding aluminum.

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I have an AC delete pulley on the shelf, will never use it again. PM me if interested

I’ve actually got one as well. Planned on using it, then found a good deal on a manual rack so I ended up not even needing the bracket for the ps or ac anymore.

I appreciate the offer though. You’ll probably see mine listed for sale soon lol.
 
Finally got my headers in. Fyi, Long tubes are a damn nightmare to get in. Finally got them mounted where I like though. Got the clutch and trans Installed today as well.

Had some issues with where the trans crossmember bolts fell out in the a5. They must be different than the 01 t5 I used to run. Need to modify the crossmember to bring the bolt slots further forward. That’s the bottom pic.

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You can kinda make out the mounting plate on the r/h side of the trans. Can’t even see the bolt holes when’s you look up thru it.

Next week when my upper intake comes in I’ll have it all buttoned up and ready to fire for the first time.
 
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So what was the problem with the crossmember?
When I initially took out my crossmember, I noted the direction it was facing (they’re actually marked as well) and I tried to put it in the same way. My old trans was out of a 2001 v6 car which was modified to work with a 96 and a 5.0.

I put everything back the way it was supposed to go and I was off on my mount holes by .500”. When I measured the a5 mounts they were further forward than the trans I pulled it. I played around with it and swapped everything around until I got it where it went together properly.

Also, That new ram powergrip clutch has quite the pressure plate on it. Disengaging the clutch to slide the a5 In was a pain in the ass.
 
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I just put that Ram clutch in my car, and yes the pedal is pretty firm. Its kind of an on/off clutch so far. Im hoping after some more break in that it smoothes out a bit. I have an aluminum flywheel which makes me have to rev the engine up a bit more to take off. Feels like a race car set up more than street car.
 
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An aluminum flywheel is what I almost went with. I’m kinda glad I just went the billet steel route. The ford racing one isn’t too heavy and isn’t too light. I think it will be just right for the setup of the car.

The clutch I was kind of worried about being too touchy. I guess we’ll just have to see how it is once I get it broke in.
 
Finally got an upper intake today. I went with the box since the regular R series are like a month out. Spent today routing a few gauges and some misc wiring. Was a pretty slow day till I got the intake in.

Just so y’all know, stock fuel rails work on a sn95 with the box r. I had to run a spacer to clear my fpr though. And yes, this son of a bitch is pretty tall lol. Not as bad as I thought though.

All I’ve got left to do is finish the intake side of things and I’m done. That and vacuum lines.

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That look bad azz, I would like to see that air filter moved outside the engine compartment or at least shielded from the heat.
nice job!
It would be nice to tuck it into the fender well but the pro m filter is a big son of a bitch lol. I didn’t want to hack that much out of the wall just yet. Later on I may do some sort of air box for it. For now, The performance difference is somewhat negligible.

With the hood that will go on, I’m guessing some engine heat will vent out the cowl, the ceramic headers should help as well.

Thank you!

Tomorrow I just have to route a couple vacuum lines, do a couple small things and hopefully I’ll get a chance to start it up. If not, early next week for sure.
 
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