98 3.8L T5 transmission seal and bushing

dchall89

New Member
Jul 26, 2018
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Knoxville
Fun T5 question for a 98 3.8L:

Leaking out rear of transmission where yoke enters. I can find an output seal easy enough, but I believe there is going to be "bushing" or "bearing" around the splines that I'll need to replace. Wondering if it's something I can do without dropping transmission. I know there's removal tools but if I'm spending $80+ the tool I might as well just pay labor to have someone else do it.

Big question is; there is NOTHING as far as info or parts on a 98 for the "tailshaft bushing". The highest year I see anything is up to 95. can anyone shed some light on what I'm in for if I drop driveshaft and try this repair? I know I purchase and replace the output seal, but I don't want to waste my time if it's still going to leak because the bushing is bad.

Any light shed will be so helpful
 
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dchall89

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Jul 26, 2018
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I'm trying to figure out if there really is any real difference between a 1995 and a 1998 T5. It seems to me that anything that applies to a 1995 T5 also applies to the 1998 T5.

T-45 Tail Shaft Swap
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/140694-t-45-tail-shaft-swap.html

It seems that way to me too! With you being a SN Certified Tech that makes me even more confident. Would you expect that write up to be about the same for removing the housing on my T5? Also, should I need to remove it (to get to that bushing) or can I remove bushing from outside with say a slide hammer or something? If I remove housing I'll need new seals for that too.

Keep me posted, on what you find out!
 

MichaelHYount

Member
Jul 9, 2021
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Charlotte, NC
For anyone searching around on this issue.....

Anyone searching around that needs to replace the T5 tailshaft housing bushing (and you'll have to replace the seal as part of the job) - I recently decided to buy this tool. And let me tell you, it makes the job a piece of cake. Extracts the old bush with the simple turn of a 15/16" wrench or socket. And use the same tool to drive the new one in with a hammer. The way the tool is designed, it can not damage the lip of the bush as you will certainly do if you try to put one in place with a hammer and screw driver (happens all the time).

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You'll find there's a lot of variation in replacement bushes that are available.

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The length of the bush, how they manage getting lube onto the yoke and the ID all vary by type. The original "Ford" branded bush I pulled out of mine (the one in the middle) was different than 2 others I bought as replacements. The shorter bush is the Amazon special -- I don't recommend it. It fit even looser than the worn original bush I was trying to replace! The minor vibration I was experiencing was as bad or worse with the new Amazon bush -- total waste of time and effort. I ended up going with the longer bush on the end. Available through NPD -- 7A034-1, BUSHING, EXTENSION HOUSING.

You want a good, snug fit around the yoke. I believe the best bush is the one with the square hole in it that allows a steady flow of fluid to lube the yoke. It's also longer than the Ford bush that came out of mine -- so it provides even more support for the yoke. If your old bush is bad it's likely it's worn your yoke also. Measure with calipers - should measure out at 1.500". Anything in the yoke you can catch your fingernail in = replace the yoke, or you'll just tear up the new bush.

Lastly, test fit the new bush to your yoke. Mine was so snug I couldn't push it on by hand - and it wasn't exactly "round". So I used the calipers/vice to gently 'bend' it round. And then I used 400 grit sandpaper with soap/water to slowly remove a bit of material from inside the bush. Go slow - remove too much, and the bush goes in the trash can. I got a good snug fit that I could BARELY get on/off by hand. Then I installed it. I found that the press fit reduced the ID just a hair -- making it a bit snugger than I was comfortable with trying to put the driveshaft in place. So I used the tool (90 seconds) to remove the bush -- and removed another thousandth or two with the sand paper. Voila -- nice snug fit in the car. The beauty of this tool is it makes removal and installation a piece of cake --- so custom fitting the bush becomes relatively easy. Note (edit) - if you use the bush with the square hole - be sure to place the hole over the lube channel in the housing -- you'll see it at about 4 o'clock as you're looking into the tailshaft housing opening from under the car.

So there ya go. If you'd like to 'rent' the tool from me - shoot me a PM. Happy to discuss. It's the ONLY way to do this job.
 
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mhisstc

New Member
Jan 25, 2022
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Goodland, KS
I can find the bushing and seals all day long, but I'm having a hard time finding this specific tool. Anyone who has it in stock wants $250 for it, and anyone who lists it for a somewhat more believable price around $170 lists it as "out of stock". Does anyone know where to pick up this tool for less than $250?
 

MichaelHYount

Member
Jul 9, 2021
7
4
13
66
Charlotte, NC
Over on the Corral -- someone posted in the last week that the same vendor I bought the tool from just sold their last one. He also mentioned he found it on eBay for about $300.00. Mine is on loan/rent out on the west coast, due back in a week or two.
 

mhisstc

New Member
Jan 25, 2022
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Goodland, KS