98 GT bolt ons

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by FoxRod87, Apr 17, 2006.

  1. I am looking at a 98 GT but don't know if I should get it. Woundering if the 4.6 is a good engine compared to the 5.0. What kind of bolt ons are the best bang for the buck. Other than gears. And how much hp increase with these bolt ons. How much hp do they have stock. Thanks for the input.

  2. it has 225 hp stock.....I would just buy a 99, they have 260 hp stock, with the better heads and intake. If you put a supercharger on a 98, you will just break 300 rwhp, which sucks...
  3. x2 on getting a 99 and up. 260 hp and 300 lb ft stock.

    If you want to mod the car and have some money then theres nothing wrong with a 96-98, except they are down on power and take more $ to modify than an old 5.0.

    The 5.0's are cheaper to buy mods for and have a larger aftermarket, easier to work on also. Im gonna risk it and say that they respond better to mods also, which I think is true.

    The 4.6 isnt a bad engine though, it just costs more when something breaks, and it costs a little more to modify.

    If you really want a Mustang and the 98 you are looking at is a good car I wouldnt pass it up, Ive done that before and it took me a LONG time before I found the Mustang that I own now.
  4. The '98s and the '99+s are basically the same except for the heads and the intake... a $1200 difference... that is all with the exception of the style. Based on that. If you want a '98 but there is a '99 for more than $1200 more. Than the '98 is the better buy. That is if you are planning on getting your hands dirty.

    There is nothing a '99 can do that my '98 can't do for an additional $1200.

  5. 96-98s blow dont buy one they are slow and you will get laughed at when everyone is smokin you if you dont have a PI swap. I have pretty much every bolt on you can get(minus cams and heads) and im still slow.:nonono: I would just go 99+ unless you are in love with the 96-98 styles...If thats the case you can buy mine.:shrug:

    But dont get me wrong I like my car and im not dissin all the 96-98s but if I could go back before I bought mine I would not have.
  6. I just started my new project so I will let you know which bolt ons work and the ET it drops. I just got best base time so... I just cant leave my 94 alone.
  7. :Word:

    ....and it hasn't been mentioned yet, but the 4.6L is every bit the engine that the old 5.0L was. Tough and reliable right to the end. The end in most cases being over 300K for most. :nice:
  8. Yeah Ford definatly has some good engines under its belt.

    But, if it were me... and I was looking at a 96-98 4.6, and I liked that body style I would buy a 94-95 for the 5.0. Nothing against the 4.6's, but its alot easier to make that body style 5.0 fast (cheaper too) than the same body style 4.6.
  9. We have 2 94's and a 97. The 97 is a better all around car for driver feel and power can be added to both. Best idea take it to the track and test it before you buy a faster starting point is always a +.
  10. I myself like the 96-98 mustangs. Although they have less power stock vs stock. Do the PI swap, then lower compression, then get blown. $$$ but if you want that body style. you gotta do what you gotta do:rolleyes:
  11. Or just buy a PI motor and get it blown

    KB FTW:SNSign:
  12. Not necessarily....you just need to know what you're doing with a 4.6L. I agree, that if big power is your goal, the 5.0L's ability to drastically increase it's displacement for very little money is where the OHV takes the lead, but as for nickel and dime stuff, the 4.6L is still every bit as competative if not further ahead of the curve.

    Mod motors have always responded better to intake and exhaust mods in bone stock trim than the OHV has. It's true that the pre-PI intake/heads aren't the greatest performer on the market, but it's no worse than the stock Pick-up truck casting ET7E heads, or MN12 T-birds/Cougar intake manifold that the SN95 Mustangs have been saddled with. An induction and exhaust upgrade can yield as much as 20-30rwhp on a stock pre-PI engine. Without changing the heads and intake, on OHV often has trouble seeing half that much. Especially with the SN-95 versions.

    Take into consideration heads.....the stock E7TE's can be ported, but even in the hands of the most experienced porters, their performance potential is limited at best. Not so for the 4.6L. Even the NPI heads can be upgraded and/or ported to flow as well as all but the best aftermarket OHV aluminum castings.....and for just over half the cost.

    What about intakes....a PI swap for earlier 4.6L can run you as little as $140 and even less if you pick up a used intake. Tell me where on earth you're able to find a new high flow OHV intake for much less than 3-times that price. It's true that a throttle body and plenum upgrade can run you a few bucks on the 4.6L....but no more than a Throttle body and MAF upgrade on a 5.0L. In all the but the most extreme cases, the 4.6L's stock 80mm MAF flows more than enough air to suit the engines needs....the same can not be said for the 5.0L's measly 55mm unit. Upgrading it is a must to see the most from a head and intake swap.

    Cam swaps aren't cheap for the 4.6L either and can run into the $600 range for an aftermarket set up but a set of PI cams will really wake-up an earlier NPI car...of which can be had for about 1/3 of the price. Even still, a cam swap does diddly for an OHV without changing the heads and intake along with them. Which brings up back to the need to swap out to a set of high dollar aluminum heads and intake....thus negateing the "cheap horsepower" arguement.

    Different things work well for each car, but the mythe that the modular engine can't be made fast on a budget went out about 8-years-ago when the PI cars were introduced. New parts are becoming more plentiful as well as less expensive. Not only that, but the market is starting to saturate with nearly as many used parts for the modulars as there have been for the 5.0L's over the last 10-years.
  13. people are saying that the NPI's are weak which im not going to deny but if you wanna get ahead of the comp quick then you do have n2o. right now im still NPI and with the juice and hanging with stock 03/04 kewbras. i think the biggest advantage to having a 96-98 is that when you do upgrade the heads you might as well get a P&P head, i dont see many 99+ owners doing this cause they already have good heads and dont see it worth the time and money. as far as NPI i love mine and hopefully made some people suprised about what you can get outta them. last dyno i made 300rwhp and 443rwtq without a tune. at the engine that is roughly 360hp and 530tq. now just wait till i do heads and cams:D
  14. I would stay away from 94-95 5.0's
    They can be more of a bastard to modifiy than 96-98 4.6
    I love my 98 and wouldn't trade or sell if for another!

  15. That whole novel was really informative, lol. I guess it all comes down to what ya wanna do with the engine as to which one is "cheaper" or "easier" to mod/work on. Very nice statement.
  16. I had a 98 GT, and i sold it because it was Auto, and it was non-pi. It was just too damn slow LOL. I upgraded to a stock 2002 GT and i got in it and it felt almost twice as fast as my 98 GT that had 4.10 gears, mid-pipe and catback, and K&N.

    Seriously, if you like the body style, its one thing. But you can get a 99+ GT for fairly cheap now-a-days. If you want a 5.0, then be my guest, they are cheap to mod and see awesome responses to modifications. However if you want to get a 4.6L, i would HIGHLy recomend getting a 99+.

    It all comes down to what you prefer. Body style, engine, whatever. But if you really dont care all that much...save for the better car, a 99+ GT.

    You also could save for a 96-98 Cobra. That wouldn't be a bad investment. But some people on here would argue they are still slow too.

    My vote is you get a 99+ GT. Preferably the newest that you can find with the lowest mileage to suit your budget.
  17. Go to Greer and watch what the 99+ cars run then make your choice but I would drive the car at the track because you wouldn't want to start with a 10's 1/8 mile car. Not all 99+ car are much quicker than 96-98s maybe a couple 10ths difference.
  18. Buy what ever year you like, you can make the power later...

    I spent about 6 months and looked and test drove at alot of Stangs. I was looking for a 99+ but when I saw my car I knew it was the one. 79K 1-owner super clean I didnt care if it was a 97, I love my car.
    And one thing I can say about the 96-98's is the interiors look better and that center defrost vent on the dast doesnt warp like 80% of the 99+'s I looked at.
    You can't deny that the PI's have a better valvetrain, but for about $400.00 you can swap out some PI cams, and PI intake and only be shy about 10 pony's.

  19. Actually...i have never had a problem with the defrost on my GT at all. And i've owned both a 98 GT and a 02 GT now. The only thing that looks better (interior wise) on the 96-98 stangs is the Black interiors on 96-98 GTs is actually black...not dark charcoal like the 99+ models. Other than that everything looks the same, minus the traction control button in the center dash that we 99+ owners have :p plus i think our foglight switch is in a better place and looks better than the 96-98 models (IMHO).

    Also, you wouldn't be able to do a headswap for $400 unless you bought really used parts and installed it youself, which many people on here aren't capable of doing. ALL the swap pieces (brand new...which is the route i would go personally) for a PI set-up is more like $1,000 + labor (if you can't do it yoruself). Keep that in mind. Furthermore, 96-98 stangs that have a 99+ Pi head, cam & intake swap aren't 10hp shy of the 99+ GTs. They actually tend to make MORE power than the 99+ stangs because of the 96-98 GT compression change with the new heads.

    And whoever said (a few posts up) that the only difference between the 96-98 GTs and the 99-04 GTs is a few tenths of a second in the 1/4: I dont think thats very accurate. The 99+ stangs run a 14.0-14.1 (stock) in the 1/4 The non-pi stangs (96-98) run more like a 14.7 (stock). Thats 6-7 tenths off. Thats a huge difference in the 1/4. correct me if i'm wrong...
  20. 1. Most 99+ have a solid color dash, 96-98 most have Black dash pads and the rest is the same color as the interior. And as for the defrost cover, I said 80% of the 99+ cars I have seen it is warped.

    2. If you would have read my post, I said PI cams and intake for $400.00, I didnt say anything about the headswap.

    3. If your gonna TRY and diss somebody, at least read the whole post...:nice: