A few more questions

[russosborne]

Note: If there are different answers for different years, I have a 76 Ghia. But please let me know the differences if any, since I would like to avoid buying stuff that won't work. I really don't know much about these, but coming from a vintage Mustang history those cars changed a lot every couple of years and lots of parts aren't swapable between some years.

First one. Is the trans crossmember the same for a manual and an auto trans? I realise that changing to an aod or T-5 changes everything.

Second one. V8 motor mounts?Both the frame and block. I have heard that these are hard to come by. Especially the frame mounts. Are there other options besides using an engine plate if I can't find them? I currently have none, unless the current owner has some stashed away(he has a lot of parts in his shed that he is throwing in, but don't I know what). And if he does they would be for the V6, not the 8.

Third. Is there any sort of faq or listing of what can be used from other cars in general besides going out and buying a Hollander's? Having a Pinto I know some stuff swaps, but generally what I know about is going from a II to a Pinto. Rear axle, brakes, etc.

Fourth. Other web forums. I have tried to register on a couple other sites that state that the admin has to manually approve and haven't heard anything back. Any ideas on how long I should give them? So far I like this place best , but I would like to get as much info as possible.


thanks,
Russ

 

[Steel Steeds]

Russ, Give mustangii.net a little time. Tim, the moderator, is slow on approvals, but does them in batches. It really is the #1 source for info out there, bar none. Makes this place look like a ghost town.
Now, here's a shot at your questions:
1. I'm afraid I'm unsure if the AT and manual crossmembers are the same. I do know that there are "single hump" and "double hump" crossmembers, and everyone wants the double hump version to run dual exhaust. I used a double hump as a starting point to fabricate a custom mount for the T-5 in my '78, but I've never taken the crossmember out of my '77 with AT.
2. Frame mounts are a dime a dozen, it's the block mounts that are gold. There are rebuild kits available for the block mounts using urethane. Keep an eye on eBay.
3. One of the guys on .net has the Hollander book, and is really good about spitting out part numbers for any question. Other than that, I have the crash part diagrams, but that is of limited use for most things. Not as much transfers from a Pinto as most people expect.
4. mustangii.net Hang in there.

 

[russosborne]

Thanks.
Yeah, mustangii.net was the one. I found the guest book there and made an entry, and also read the more recent entries. Having only registered less than a week ago without hearing back doesn't seem bad after reading some of the other entries.

I didn't even notice if this car has a trans crossmember or not. I just happened to notice someone having a double hump for sale here and that got me wondering. I have a feeling I am going to be confused for quite a while.

Ebay and I parted ways a while back. I cancelled my account with them and Paypal in protest when they started raising the rates and jerking the rules around about 2 years ago I think. So I will be dependent on forums like this once I start looking to buy stuff. Course that may be just a wee bit from now, like years.

Russ

 

[Wart]

Russ, Give mustangii.net a little time. Tim, the moderator, is slow on approvals, but does them in batches. It really is the #1 source for info out there, bar none.

Not surprising since a strong case can be made for Gahl building his site by the theft of others intellectual properties. And the attitude displayed when questioned about the above would lead me to believe northing has changed.

First one. Is the trans crossmember the same for a manual and an auto trans? I realise that changing to an aod or T-5 changes everything.

Search the forums, several threads on the cross member and later model transmissions.

There is one thread (I forget who posted it) where the cross member issue was addressed corectly, for the most part people relocate the cross with spacers and long bolts which makes cringe.

Second one. V8 motor mounts?Both the frame and block. I have heard that these are hard to come by. Especially the frame mounts.

Funny thing is there are those who say the V6 and V8 frame mounts are different.

I converted a V6 to a V8 using factory V8 frame and engine mounts, I had the frame mounts side by side, I don't remember seeing any difference.

Third. Is there any sort of faq or listing of what can be used from other cars in general besides going out and buying a Hollander's? Having a Pinto I know some stuff swaps,...

If your looking for bolt ons get a different car.

but generally what I know about is going from a II to a Pinto. Rear axle, brakes, etc.

II rear axle? Scrap.

Rear brakes? Their part of the reason the rear axle is scrap.

Etc? Your further ahead assuming nothing is a 'bolt in swap'.

A truth about Mustangs: Just about anything can be done to any year (with the possible exception of the 71-73) of Mustang with a credit card and basic set of hand tools. This does not apply to the II. You need skills or need to be willing to acquire new skills or your sunk. And no matter what the II can be a frigging headache.

 

[russosborne]

II rear axle? Scrap.

Rear brakes? Their part of the reason the rear axle is scrap.

Etc? Your further ahead assuming nothing is a 'bolt in swap'.

A truth about Mustangs: Just about anything can be done to any year (with the possible exception of the 71-73) of Mustang with a credit card and basic set of hand tools. This does not apply to the II. You need skills or need to be willing to acquire new skills or your sunk. And no matter what the II can be a frigging headache.

Ok, I am having problems figuring out the quoting and posting, so I will just try to answer the above down below.

What is wrong with the Mustang II rear axle? 8 inch version that is.

Re bolt in. Well, I could hope, couldn't I?

I know I will have to get good at welding. I have a mig capable Lincoln welder, just need to get the mig kit for it, and of course a bottle of gas. And lots of practice.
I don't have a torch, but do have a sawzall type saw, plus the ordinary type of tools. Going to have to do without an air compressor, unless I come across one with a gas motor at some point. Renter, and the garage wiring is minimal at best. Not even on its on breaker.

Thanks,
Russ

 

[Steel Steeds]

There's nothing inherently wrong with the 8" rear, it just isn't as strong as the 9". Obviously. But, I'm going to stick with my 8" for a while due to cost concerns. If I had a pile of cash sitting around, I'd have a narrowed 9" built for my King. But, my pile of cash has been turned into paint and body work, and it will take a while to build that back up...

 

[russosborne]

Thanks.

I agree the 9 is stronger. But it also weighs more. And costs more(since everyone wants one)(parts are similar in price though once you get a rear).

If I put a mega horsepower/torque engine in then the 9 is the only way to go. But for a stockish V8 with a streetable automatic and no racing slicks the 8 should be plenty strong.

Having said that, if anyone has a 9inch rear they want to give me, I wouldn't insult them by turning it down.

Russ

 

[Mstng2]

Other than the above mentioned Brakes theres nothing wrong with the 8' axle. It is plenty strong even with a beefy Motor. I know of a couple of II's running full Slicks and 11 second ET's at the track on the 8' Rear End. I run the stock rear end, and it has clocked many many miles. (1/4 mile at a time)

 

[Wart]

Thanks.

I agree the 9 is stronger. But it also weighs more. And costs more(since everyone wants one)(parts are similar in price though once you get a rear).

Yep, after the initial investment you don't get into a whole lot more ... unless you have a Versailles 9". Then the brakes get darned expensive.

If I put a mega horsepower/torque engine in then the 9 is the only way to go. But for a stockish V8 with a streetable automatic and no racing slicks the 8 should be plenty strong.

Russ, I got my first II new in '78. I've spent a little time with the cars.

First let me warn you: If/Before you pull the axle make sure you have either replacement spring packs or the car is where you can leave it sit for a while. If the springs have any age on them count on them being broke. I believe this breakage is due to the rubber bushings trapping water and the weakness of the rubber bushing mounting.

You may take it to Stuver to have the leafs rebuilt. They pull it apare and find a broken main leaf they may not be able to put it back together.

That's not actually a problem of all 8" rears but of the II 8". I broke many springs before going solid mount.

Then there is the axle perch used on the 8" II. This has something to do with the tapered II 8" housing. Because the housing tapers there isn't much of a gusset on the perch. Plus the darned perch is wide and thin. Way back when I pulled the axle to add a leaf and found the drivers side perch bent (understatement).

Then the tapered axle housing, WTF? Makes the housing weaker. Plus makes it so one is stuck using the factory perch.

And then there are the unique axle ends. Pretty much sticks you with using the same brake plates meaning the same brake diameter. And since basic brake bias comes from a ratio derived from "brake size" if going to a larger rotor on the front means the back becomes underpowered.

Damn, I have work to do so I can't really finish this.

Summation: When I looked at the issues of the II's 8", going to larger tires (14 and 15") and the brake issues, and IIRC a few other things, I didn't see where the II's 8" housing fits into the/my/any plan.

 

[russosborne]

Yup.
I pretty much can agree with all you said, other than not having any experience with the II 8 inch differences.

Re the car sitting. No engine, no trans, lots of rust, and no money. It isn't going anywhere for a long long time. I already anticipate replacing just about everything on it.

I have a 67 Stang 8 inch rear sitting in my garage. Originally bought it for my Pinto a year ago, but never had the time/money to mess with it.

Especially since finding out about the II rear brake issues, I am leaning towards putting the '67 rear in. I know it is wider (1 inch each side) and the perchs are slightly wider than the II's, but from an ease of parts availability and strength I think it will be worth the hassle. Especially since I would want to either go with larger drums or even a disk brake rear eventually.

I keep forgetting to check the rear code when I am out in the garage. It sounds like the odds are pretty good the II gear ratio will be better than the '67 has, if so I will be swapping the third members out. I plan on getting new rear axle bearings anyway, so pulling the axles is a must.

Not sure yet what to do with the II 8 inch rear. Leaning towards putting it in my pinto(stock 4cyl auto daily driver beater) but seeing as they are so desirable to the Pinto crowd I just may sell it to get some cash. If I put it in the Pinto, it won't be anytime soon. Can't have that car down at all until I get something else, which isn't going to happen.

I used to have a 68 Ranchero, had an axle bearing go on two different rears on it. Seeing one of your rear tires with the axle still attached pass you by while going around a freeway curve at speed is something I do NOT want to experience again. I am pretty sure the actual cause was an out of round aluminum rim I had bought used, but it isn't worth taking chances to me. After the second time I tossed both of those rims in the trash.

Thanks,
Russ

 

[russosborne]

And just a quick note regarding the trans cross member. While cleaning out all the parts that were in the trunk, I found a dual hump cross member. Yea! One less thing to have to buy.
Russ