Progress Thread About To Run American Autowire

[65-Fstbk]

Hi All,

its been a loooong time since I've been here. Kids, work etc, you know the drill. Anyway I have been making some progress on the car. Bodywork is mostly done, car has been sprayed with self etch and now Slick-Sand to await further prep. Last winter I built the engine and once I realized I had the fuel pump plumbed backwards it fired and ran first time. Running a big cam and it really sounds great. I will try to post a video of the startup but I seem to be challenged when it comes to that. The T5 is installed and I have just ordered an AAW 510125 wiring kit to freshen everything up.

I'd like to know if any of you have used the AAW kit and can offer advice. Some say it's best to pull the wiper motor and mount out to make things easier.

Also the crimpers....what's with the crimpers??? Sure to heck there must be a decent set of crimpers that can tackle this without costing a fortune. Any wires that are not pre-terminated by AAW will get soldered too when I do it.

If anyone has any constructive advice I would sure appreciate it. I will also post as I install to let you know what I find.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tos]

I ran Painless kit but Didn't remove the wiper motor and didn't cause any problems. If the gauge cluster, glove box and speaker grill are all removed you'll have plenty of room. I would suggest removing your steering wheel though. It really gets in the way.

 

[65-Fstbk]

Here's the link to the engine firing for the first time. I hope this link works.
Block came from a low mileage 1988 5.0HO
Machined and crank was polished
New Clevite bearings back to factory clearance
Converted motor to carburetor
Quickfuel Slayer 600cfm
Heads are ProComp aluminium
Weiand Stealth hi-rise alum intake
Comp Cam 281HR
Crane 1.6 rollers
New Crane Hyd lifters


Also the tech help at American Autowire are super fast to respond. They have already replied to say no need to remove the wiper motor.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rdmnul0HCLw

 

[horse sence]

I have never used AAW but i would figure it would be as good as Painless. I used painless a couple of time as it is fairly simple ...depends on what harness you order . I would solder all connections and shrink tube anything exposed .

 

[MustangIIMatt]

Also the crimpers....what's with the crimpers??? Sure to heck there must be a decent set of crimpers that can tackle this without costing a fortune. Any wires that are not pre-terminated by AAW will get soldered too when I do it.

If anyone has any constructive advice I would sure appreciate it. I will also post as I install to let you know what I find.

Don't cheap out on crimpers! I've thrown away more crimpers bought from a parts store in a pinch than I can count.

Home Depot and Lowes have decent ones in their electrical section, and Radio Shack (in the areas lucky enough to still have one) have decent crimpers, as does Sears.

You are going to crimp dozens, if not hundreds of times doing a full harness (depends on the harness), so get the right tool.

Here's what I use at the shop (brought home to repair one connector on my Mustang II):

 

[65-Fstbk]

I think the Tool Aid may be the one as I have heard other pretty good things about it. At this point I'm waiting for my kit to arrive and will need to see exactly what connectors are in the kit. The other thing I was thinking was to run all the wire and get it as complete as I can since many of the AWW circuits are pre-terminated with correct connectors. Then I could rent the tools from AWW and go crazy for a month finishing it off (they rent them to you for a month then you have to return them).
Not sure which way to go at this point.

 

[RaggedGT]

I use two separate tools for wiring- I could use a good upgrade though-like that crimp tool on that last pic lol

 

[65-Fstbk]

I took the plunge and bought the AAW crimpers. May as well do this right. Have the kit now and will be doing it over the winter. I'll post as I go.

 

[65-Fstbk]

Ok things are progressing along with the AAW harness. I took my time and did a lot of reading and familiarized myself with the instructions and the different branch circuits first. Once I had the harness more or less organized I wrapped each branch with split braided loom (Techflex). Once that was done I converted the factory turn signal switch connector over to the supplied AAW connector and also the instrument cluster connections (I'm running stock, sweep style) to the supplied AAW connector. Using the AAW crimpers does do a nice crimp but I am also soldering each connection once crimped. Then prepped in behind the dash opening. Some write-ups recommend removal of the wiper motor and bracket. I did not do this and with the tech flex on the branches it snakes up and over the steering column without many problems. So if you're wrapping with braided loom I say leave your wiper motor and bracket in the car. I did remove the drivers fresh air vent from the cowl and that opened it up nicely. Not hard to remove and allows you to see the routing and the firewall openings better. So far no major issues and I'm not a wiring guy so if I can do it, you can do it. Just take your time and think about each step before doing it. When help is needed the AAW tech support has been great and they have answered quickly. If anyone want pictures of any specific area please let me know and I'll post for you. More updates to come as I go along. So far all is good.

 

[65-Fstbk]

Just thought I would post an update. The wiring under dash to the front of the car is all in place. Still need to run the rear body harness but I'm going to do that after paint as it's pretty easy. Haven't put power to it yet but hope to do so in the next while and will hopefully be in business. I included a couple of pics of how things were done hopefully they're useful to someone.

Engine bay with all the wiring through the firewall and in braided loom. Wiring position not 100% finalized yet (but close) as export brace is not on. Engine bay will also get dress up for final with ss braided hoses and proper length spark plug leads.
Dash opening with my little solder board and clip tree to hold wires while soldering. For electrical connections make sure you use Rosin core solder.
For the relay bank I made a bracket out of aluminum angle and bolted it to the wiper motor bracket. Relays are screwed to the bracket. Everything is accessible and nicely organized. Fog light relay not installed in the bank b/c I do not have fog lights at this time. Feed left in car though for future.

 

[65-Fstbk]

A note on gauges. Trying to do things without breaking the bank can be a challenge. Instead of going with a known gauge mfr I bought a set off e-bay for $41. They are all electric as I prefer not to use mechanical gauges. They seem ok and are brightly illuminated with LED lights but they are cheap. The threaded water temp sensor stud started turning as I was trying to tighten the nut clamping the sensor lead. Not overtightening as the lock washer had not even seated yet so I guess it a classic case of YGWYPF. I am going to but a better gauge for water temp and swap it in

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