Added 20hp with C&L combo! Dyno results here

[ttown]

In case you haven't heard or interested in the Diablo Predator there is a group buy and it would be worth calling to get a quote. He said he'd give the discount for any car/truck, the Mach's unit won't be out until Feb.

Hint if your willing to pay $250ish for a C&L you might want to call it's more but not close to the over $400 list. It also can't be posted but you can call the toll free number.

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9190


I sure most of you know about the Predator but thought I'd include a link with details of all the functions of the unit:

http://www.diablosport.com/ford.html

BTW the Mach uses the same 80mm MAF as the GT.

 

[MustangMuscleV8]

nice man!

 

[stylin99]

I know you guys want more answers but bare with me. I've got gobs of data here to analyze and a lack of time to do so. These are only the initial results.
Graphs to come soon.

 

[4.6modular]

So in essence instead of buying a chip like the diablo or whatever other chips are out there, you could just purchase a steeda t/a, and the pro-m optimizer. Because in reality you are doing the same thing a chip would do which is adjust the timing and the a/f ratio for optimum hp/trq and a safe a/f ratio tune. They say they can reburn the chip for different mods but actually that's a lie because all they are doing is adjusting the a/f ratio based on the average parameters a car like mines or someone elses might run at a given rpm based on a given mod. Of coarse we all know no 2 cars are alike. What are everyones elses thoughts on this.

 

[StangClear]

I am wondering what Nitrous set up you are using. If it's in this thread somewhere then I missed it. Good job though, and since I am in the planning stages, this is a great help. Thanks

 

[MustangLife]

4.6modular

So in essence instead of buying a chip like the diablo or whatever other chips are out there, you could just purchase a steeda t/a, and the pro-m optimizer. Because in reality you are doing the same thing a chip would do which is adjust the timing and the a/f ratio for optimum hp/trq and a safe a/f ratio tune. They say they can reburn the chip for different mods but actually that's a lie because all they are doing is adjusting the a/f ratio based on the average parameters a car like mines or someone elses might run at a given rpm based on a given mod.

A chip saves money. You turn off mil light, compensate for gear ratio, compensate for different tire sizes, adjust a/f, adjust timing as you are in the rpm range, raise or remove rev limiter,

I got my diablo sport chip dual staged for $500 and thats counting dyno time.

But if you don't buy a chip you have to buy

1. mil elimators
2. speed cal
3. timing adjuster
4. pro-m optimizer

And you still have to buy one if you go into headwork, cams, etc

Josh

 

[2000GT]

Before adding my Dragon Plenum I was at 13:1 at 4k rpm, and about 12.2:1 at 5k rpm.. I'm soon going to add a C&L inlet tube and Accufab 75mm t/b.. Do you guys think it would be necessary to have my Autologic chip tuned? I'm going to have it dynoed anyways.. but I don't want to have to pay the tuner to come to the dyno if its not necessary. Do you guys think the added mods would have me too lean? I'm already tuned to 91 octane.

educated opinions would be much appreciated, thanks

-wade

This is exactly why I am concerned about adding mods. after you already had your car tuned. My a/f is 13.1:1 at WOT from 3500 rpms to redline. My car was tuned with an Autologic chip on a dyno. If I add the C&L Plenum and 75mm, is my a/f going to change and then will I need to get my car re-tuned?

Not sure, but it might run extra lean at first, but it should correct itself as I think that is the point of burning the a/f you want into a chip. The computer will sense more air entering the engine and add more fuel until it reaches my programmed 13.1:1 a/f ratio again. Is it that simple?

 

[DCBigpimpin]

I have the Pro M Optimizer and it allows the person to adjust for A/F during idle and you can adjust for new injector sizes also. I purchased it to correct the rich condition that the my CAI would cause. I checked my tailpipes and they clean ( except from a little rust...MAC products.. , But exhaust sounds good). I need to get a dyno tune to make sure the A/F is correct.

 

[clarkjr]

Great numbers and you can see how fine tuning a combo really pays off! Thanks for all of the info.

 

[Jack Powell]

i was wondering first of all holy *****. Second will this work on a 99 cobra you think, and if so which parts exactly willi need to require the greateset gain. I know you already stated them but i m not good at all with air induction aspect of engines and really have no clue to what these parts do. Thanks also pricing would be great too.

 

[stylin99]

For those of you that are questioning completely different setups using some of the parts in this test, or are assuming outcomes outside of the testing, I want to point out that every car is different, and every setup difference will make the tuning results come out differently. You can't compare apples to grapes and make a logical analysis. All I can say, is fork up the dough, and do a couple dyno runs to fine tune YOUR car! That step is invaluable to the performance gains you get. I can't say it enough.

 

[Sam98]

4.6modular



A chip saves money. You turn off mil light, compensate for gear ratio, compensate for different tire sizes, adjust a/f, adjust timing as you are in the rpm range, raise or remove rev limiter,

I got my diablo sport chip dual staged for $500 and thats counting dyno time.

But if you don't buy a chip you have to buy

1. mil elimators
2. speed cal
3. timing adjuster
4. pro-m optimizer

And you still have to buy one if you go into headwork, cams, etc

Josh

All true, at least for the 99+. For the 98 you still need the speed cal...

 

[BlackVert]

I just ordered the same parts for my 96 GT from http://www.rpmoutlet.com:

C&L plenum and AccuFab 75 MM T/B ($369.95)
C&L Mass Air kit and True-Flow Pipe ($355.95)

I'm doing a dyno run today and I'll post the results. After the stuff gets here, I'll put them in and do another run and post that. Then I'll get a tune and do one more run and post that.

 

[wms004]

This is exactly why I am concerned about adding mods. after you already had your car tuned. My a/f is 13.1:1 at WOT from 3500 rpms to redline. My car was tuned with an Autologic chip on a dyno. If I add the C&L Plenum and 75mm, is my a/f going to change and then will I need to get my car re-tuned?

Not sure, but it might run extra lean at first, but it should correct itself as I think that is the point of burning the a/f you want into a chip. The computer will sense more air entering the engine and add more fuel until it reaches my programmed 13.1:1 a/f ratio again. Is it that simple?

I would like a sure answer on this as well.

-wade

 

[stylin99]

Okay guys, here are the dyno graphs for the C&L Testing runs. All data was imported accurately into Excel to produce these graphs.


Graph 1 and 2 shows:
- Baseline Run with Mac CAI
- After adding C&L 80mm MAF kit & Intake tube, no tuning needed
- After adding 75mm Accufab Throttlebody, C&L Plenum, tuned with Pro-M Optimizer.

HP

Torque

 

[stylin99]

Here's a different graph showing the difference in the 70mm vs. the 75mm accufabs tested. Granted, we didn't spend a great deal of time on the 70 because the 75 netted more and we planned to use that on the car long term. We could have spent all day dynoing, but my bill would be atrocious.

This graph shows:
A.) 70mm Accufab TB plus C&L Plenum (no tuning needed)
B.) 75mm Accufab TB plus C&L Plenum (did not tune but car got richer after this change and HP still stayed about the same)
C.) 75mm Accufab TB and C&L Plenum TUNED with the Optimizer. So you see the 75mm equaled the 70mm even when the A/F was not the same. This means, that the 75 was flowing more air but because it went rich, the power didn't increase until we modified the A/F ratio.

There's more potential on the 75mm IF you tune the car on the dyno. And that's naturally aspirated. I've seen a bunch of reports (mostly hearsay) that the 75 only works with power adder cars. Not true.

 

['96&'01Stang]

That is what happened kinda with my car. When I added the Plenum, TB, and K&N Filter I got rich as hell, then when I had my A/F ration back to where it was I gained 20 rwhp

 

[BlackVert]

I just ordered the same parts for my 96 GT from http://www.rpmoutlet.com:

C&L plenum and AccuFab 75 MM T/B ($369.95)
C&L Mass Air kit and True-Flow Pipe ($355.95)

I'm doing a dyno run today and I'll post the results. After the stuff gets here, I'll put them in and do another run and post that. Then I'll get a tune and do one more run and post that.

Bottom line: my car sucks ... 240 rwtq, 177 rwhp (SAE). Ugh.
Here is my dyno runs page:
http://www.thecurls.net/Stang96/dyno-runs/index.htm

 

[Beau]

Some PI heads would help you out a lot...

 

[BlackVert]

Some PI heads would help you out a lot...

I have them, but I haven't decided exactly what to do with them. I'm thinking about a P/P and some more agressive cams, but I haven't made any decisions yet.

Plus, I think a tune would help alot too. My A/F ratio is way too rich ...