Advice on fresh fitech install that will not run.

[Dizzybuzz]

Hello everyone. This is my first post on here, so I believe this is the right spot.

Anyways, last year I had a brand new engine built for my fox. 393w stroker, comp cam, and afr heads. Had the carb and timing set on a engine dyno. I had the carb on and after a couple minutes of tuning it ran fine. Idle was fine. I pulled the carb off and switched it to the fitech 1200 system a few weeks ago, and a new 1 inch edelbrock carb spacer. I ran the system with a efi style return regulator, and dead headed the fuel into the system. So it's only the pressure side feeding into it, and it's set at 65lbs on the regulator.

Upon first start and having the initial set up all dialed in, it will not start at all. I have to give it gas for it to run, and when I do it runs EXTREMELY rich. The AFR on the hand held says it's about 13.6:1 but it's hard to believe since if I rev it it blows black smoke out and actually crests creates spots of black on the floor. I thought it might be a lean issue, but the carb just ran fine and all the vacuum lines are capped off. I can hear and see the prime shot firing in. Still won't start at all or attempt to. It did after fire through the throttle body once. I know the timing is fine. I believe it's around 16* at idle. I haven't done anything with the IAC steps yet, because to my understanding it should fire up on the initial set up if all is correct. Sorry for the lengthy read and thanks in advance for any info or advice. I've been pulling my hair out for a while now over this.

 

[RaggedGT]

I’m not well versed in the FiTech systems,but 65lbs of fuel pressure sounds high. Is that the recommended pressure with the FiTech?

 

[Dizzybuzz]

I’m not well versed in the FiTech systems,but 65lbs of fuel pressure sounds high. Is that the recommended pressure with the FiTech?

The fitech uses a GM style regulator built in, and needs at least 58lbs of fuel pressure. So anything after 58lbs it'll regulate itself. I just keep it at 65lbs incase it were to drop under WOT that it would have a little more and won't drop below what it needs.

 

[Steel1]

If thought Fitech had there own fuel pump/regulator tank set-up that you could use.
Not sure if you currently have an efi return style system.

 

[Deleted member 215073]

Have you contacted FiTech about your issue?

The only FiTech system I've ever seen it went on an old K5 Blazer and it had to have a return style fuel system installed, and the kit came with its own pump and regulator.

 

[Dizzybuzz]

They have their fuel command center, but ive read a lot of issues with it. People use that a lot when they swap from carb, and all it does is use a normal 5-7lbs of pressure to fill up a reservoir and then uses their pump to put 60lbs of pressure into the throttle body on a dead head set up also. So it would be configured just how I have it. My car was originally fuel injected, so it is set up for it.

And I have not contacted fitech yet. Been on a lot of OT at work and they're closed when I get done so I haven't been able to work on the car at the same time. I'll call them on Friday and see if I can get any info on what's going on. Who knows, maybe I just have to adjust the throttle blades and let it self learn. Just frustrated with the whole thing.

 

[KZGUNS]

I think fitech has a forum on their site.

 

[a91what]

Keep us updated with what you find out.

 

[Dizzybuzz]

I'll give them a call soon, hopefully tomorrow, and ill see if i can get it figured out. I'll keep you all posted incase someone else can use the same help or info.

 

[Dizzybuzz]

Update guys! After work yesterday I finally found somw ambition to assemble the rest od the car and try to get it running again. I opened up the throttle blades and FINALLY got it to idle on it's own. After it warmed up I started adjusting the idle down and got the AIC steps to where they should be. After it self learned a little bit theres no more black smoke and it seems to be at a consistent 14.7 AFR. Seems to be running good. I'll have to mess with it more come spring to see what the driveability is like. I found some pretty bad header leaks and it's leaking coolant out of the thermostat housing. Fix one thing find 3 more problems. Lol

 

[KZGUNS]

Good to hear! It should get better with time.

 

[90sickfox]

First starts are almost always like that. That's the fun of it all.... during it up and chasing leaks. Lol

 

[Dizzybuzz]

Exactly! Lol I have hooker super comp headers with the flanges on the heads and I CANNOT get it to seal ever.

 

[General karthief]

Cooper gaskets or cooper rtv for headers

 

[Dizzybuzz]

Cooper gaskets or cooper rtv for headers

Cooper rtv blew out within a few hours.

 

[General karthief]

An old trick for poor sealing headers is to soak the regular gaskets in water for a few minutes and then install, fire it up and let it get hot then torque em down again.
I have the individual flange headers and a copper gasket and no leaks

 

[Dizzybuzz]

An old trick for poor sealing headers is to soak the regular gaskets in water for a few minutes and then install, fire it up and let it get hot then torque em down again.
I have the individual flange headers and a copper gasket and no leaks

Ive read that. I should see if that works. My only issue is finding gaskets that actualy work with my headers.

 

[General karthief]

What is unusual about your headers?

 

[Dizzybuzz]

What is unusual about your headers?

They're engine swap headers for a windsor. It takes normal gaskets to the head, but it requires an Adapter flange because the headers are bigger than the ford ports. So I can never find the gasket that goes against the header to the header flange.