Advice Or Ideas On Next Step With A Dd

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Gearhead92, Sep 24, 2013.

  1. Hey everyone. I haven't posted in a while, busy with work and school.

    I have done a decent amount of work on my '88 LX daily driver.
    Here is an update of what I've recently done, and what is done to the car:

    Suspension progress has been made
    ---Tokico Illumina series Shocks and Struts, Eibach pro lowering spring, BBK caster camber plates,
    AJE Racing front control arms (? I think that's the name)
    --I have a MM front sway bar to put in, just haven't gotten around to it
    -Only thing left for suspension is rear sway bar and rear control arms, but they don't need to be changed, the struts and shocks were worn out

    Replaced Flowmasters with BORLA exhaust. Still have shorty headers. I had exhaust leaks, but I think all have been fixed.
    Also have A/C delete and alternator bracket installed.

    Installed Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, pressure plate, and newly machined flywheel, new throwout bearing, and seals

    There will be a decent list with random question. This is my bored at work post to fish for ideas, opinions, and advice.

    First, a belt question....
    So, with the belt setup I currently have, I go through belts like a redneck goes through ammo. The tensioner bar is stretching the belt in a very short amount of time. I had to replace a belt after 3 months of limited driving because I was at college...which feels very wrong. I put a new belt on about 3 weeks ago and it already squeals on start and squeals above 400 rpm...needs to be tightened again. I tried to get a shorter belt on but seemed impossible, unless there are tricks I don't know about.
    Now I'd like to install A/C again, because after this summer w/o it, I'd like to have it. But a short term, relatively inexpensive fix would be nice.
    I will post a picture when I get home from work.

    My quad shocks are completely shot, and so were my rear shocks, thankfully I replaced them sooner rather than later. Neither the shocks or quads shocks had any return once compressed. Currently I think the quad shocks are squeaking like crazy....really annoying...
    Now, should I spend ~$80 bucks and get new quad shocks?
    Or spend the extra money to get a set of control arms that will eliminate the quads?
    Now, is there any reason to not get a good set of control arms and still get new quad shocks? so both?

    While having my clutch replaced, I was told I have oil leaking from the back of the intake.
    I'm assuming it is just a seal issue, and can purchase all the required seals for ~$50 and replace them
    I don't see a reason to not try and find a new intake setup while I'm taking the current one off.
    I'm sure the best way to go is buying a better one rather than porting the current one.
    Any suggestions on intakes? Upper and lower? Throttle bodies etc..? I'd also purchase a CAI at the same time. I know the typical brands, but just curious on your experiences.

    Now I could just do the intake or I could use the money and rebuild/upgrade my rear end.
    I'd still change the seals of course. But I feel like I'm not getting the power to the rear like I should.
    With a new clutch....I drop it at high rpm, and spin (more of a chirp) one tire and then grip....and once in second it feels like it drops off....I feel like second should have more power....idk it could be wishful thinking.

    I'm not sure what to do first. Add a little power, or build other parts up to handle the eventual power.

    If I did the rear, I looked into the kits from AmericanMuslce, the 3.73 gears with the rebuild kit, and the limited slip Ford Racing rebuild for the Traction-LOK...

    I am really just curious on others opinions and advice on what to do next. Since the generic maintenance has been done. The clutch and suspension needed changing, so I upgraded at the same time.

    Now I kinda have a choice of what to do next.
  2. Personally i would like to see you invest in a quality set of rear control arms and simply eliminate the quad shocks. Sure you could replace them but i'm not a big fan. As far as the intake goes, if you can get a good deal on a used one then swap it the same time you reseal everything. Gt40, TFS, Edelbrock, even professional products all make decent stuff and anything you find will be an improvement over the stocker i'm guessing you have on the car now.
    If you are having a problem with the trac lok and are not looking towards changing rear end gears then a simple rebuild is all that would be required. Between clutches and some new fluids you would only be looking around 100$ in parts to fix that one legger :)

    I can't really answer the belt question without knowing what accessories you still have on the car.

    Hope this is helpful, Glad to see you Back!!
  3. Thank you for your response.

    I'd like to change to 3.73s, but it is a DD, so maybe 3.55s would be better? It won't be a DD for too much longer, no more than 2 more years. I have one more year of undergraduate school, and then I'll look for a new DD and keep my '88 for my fun car. So I'm not worried if I put in 3.73s...So ~$100 bucks now and more later for when I wanna put gears in....
    Why not do the gears if I am going in there anyway. I guess it is spend money now or later.

    I believe all I have is power steering, fan clutch, and alternator accessory wise, but I will post a picture when I get home.

    My goal is to find a good deal on an intake and TB from craigslist. I'll do some CL searching before I take it apart.
  4. I prefer 3.73 gears but 3.55's will work as well. I'm just thinking if you are on a budget it wouldn't hurt to just change the clutches in the trak loc and rock with it. If you decide to change the gears later it is no wasted expense other than 2 quarts of fluid and the limited slip additive.

    Good luck with the search for an intake, let me know if you have trouble finding something as I'm not all that far from Baltimore and know a lot of people with dusty mustang parts in their garages, lol Feel free to shoot me a PM if you would like
  5. Thanks man. Yeah, one of my roommates are from South Jersey. You're not too far from my college. Yeah, I could hold off on the gears, unless I find a deal, which happens. I'll let you know if I need anything.

    I just saw a set of 3.73s on CL for $75, a good deal if they are in good shape. GT40 intake manifolds I've seen as low as ~$100, and as high as ~$600. I'm still looking around as well.
  6. check your pulley alignment

    I didnt see this, but the first thing you need to add is a good set of subframe connectors. I recommend MM full length or Steeda.

    Some people get away with no quad shocks after installing new RLCA, some don't. If you get wheel hop after installing the new arms, then put the quads back on. Do not cheap out on the RLCA- no poly bushings on both ends as that will cause bind. I would look at Steeda, MM, or Griggs.

    An Explorer/Cobra/GT40 intake on a set of stock E7's will have marginal improvent- maybe 15 hp. If you still have the stock TB and MAF, I wouldn't waste the money and time until you upgrade the heads (or at least the TB and MAF) A cheap MAF and TB upgrade is to get the MAF from any 94-95GT and for the TB a 65 MM TB from a mid 90's explorer. Then it might make sense to swap intakes but if you are going that far might as well swap the E7's for the explorer heads (swap the springs to better ones). You will have a GT40 intake and heads now on the cheap.

    Your stock intake tube is a CAI. You can get an aftermarket one but get one that places the filter in the fenderwell not the engine bay. You may pick up 5-10 hp.

    Rear end- This is by far your best bang for the buck. I would only use FORD gears. Buying used gears is a crap shoot and unless you know they didn't howl pass. Buy the FORD master rear end kit with the upgraded GT500 pinion parts. Its like $100 and has all the shims, and axle seals and bearings. I bought the kit from LMRS- 3.73 gears, master rebuild kit, lube and friction modifier for around $250. You also get a stangnet discount.

    Like everyone else, I am cost concious and look for the best bargains, but in some cases you gotta pay for the right part. Do it right the first time instead of cutting corners.
  7. I am also cost conscious, at the right times. Currently everything I am looking at doing I could find on CL if I wait long enough. So there will be a lot of CL searching.

    I actually forgot about the subframe connectors I have in my garage. I just need to find a good place around to weld them in. I have no idea what brand they buddy gave them to me for free. He cut them off of a roller he purchased and was going to scrap them. They are slightly curved tubular steel bars with plates on the sides. So probably nothing too fancy, but I'm sure if I get them put on correctly, by a competent welder, they will get the job done.

    Intake: First off, I have an '88, which is Speed density, and when I bought the car, the original intake was removed. So I have this crappy short ram with a cone filter on it, floating around next to the engine...just haven't dropped the money for the CAI. I'm positive i will buy one that goes into the fender, that is really the only way you will actually get cold air.
    I am currently look at this one: plus the 50 bucks for the speed density adapter
    And unless I happen to come across a CAI on CL, that is what I'm going to get. It has great reviews, and is cheap, and will do that same as an expensive one.

    Intake, GT40: I found a deal on CL, $150 for a GT40... upper, lower, and TB for $150....I am going to jump on that on Monday. It is so cheap compared to what I have seen, there is no reason not to grab it.
    The question becomes, what is wrong with it? What should I look for?

    I am fine with picking up only ~15HP with the GT40 intake and such. Plus another ~5-10HP with the CAI. I don't have the money just yet to think about getting new heads, plus baby steps are in order.

    I just want to jump into the ocean off a chopper and get CAI, intake manifold, and head, and springs etc...all at the same time. Plus I'd rather do rear end before heads. The power doesn't help when the rear end wont deliver. But I'll be sure to look around for heads and jump on a good deal if I can.

    I like the rear end idea, I like the kit better. Is this the kit you mentioned?
    I was looking into this kit:
    Plus add the extra 110 for the trac LOK...Or get used gears, and those two 220 plus used gears.

    I'm ok with getting used gears, mainly because I will make sure they are in good condition. I'll do my research and talk to friends. Why not save a few bucks? If I can't find a good set, I'll buy new.
    There are many ways to do it. I'll look the best way, and factor in cost.
  8. be careful with used SFC, as they fit to each car and you will have a hell of a time pounding them in place to fit your car. Spend the money and at least buy a decent new set or don't do at all.

    For the intake, you want the one with the EGR hole in the center of the upper and lower. I believe they are pre 1997.

    That rear end kit is the one you want. IMO you are better off spending the $250 and know you are getting new FORD gears and all new parts, plus the fluid and friction modifier. Is it worth saving $50 on a used set of gears and taking a chance they were not set up right? Take the money you are saving on the CL intake and buy the new gears. Just my .02
  9. if your in the market for 3.31 gears, there seems to be lots of new takeoffs out there from the new cars upgrading to more gear. got mine off a 50 mile car for $30
  10. I'd consider any gears over stock, but I don't want to put in one set, and then want to upgrade....I've been warned that I'd put in 3.55s and then want the 3.73s...

    The SFCs are just metal bars needing to be welded in...I don't see the issues? If they were bolt ons I would agree.

    Thanks for you 0.02, I'll see what happens after the intake. I think I've decided to do the intake first, since I can find a good deal on CL.
  11. i'll say that i've had 6 different fox bodies and my favorite gear of all is the 3.55's. I have 3.73's in my turbo car right now and hate em, just never seem to be right, and i'm talking before the turbo install as well. I'll be swapping in the 3.31's hopefully soon.
  12. Just make sure they are not bent up. For the gears, general consensus is for stick 3.55, AOD 3.73 (which I also have in mine) .
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  13. good point mike, with an auto you'd be happier with a bit more gear, but from your first question you mentioned the clutch, so assume you are stick so i left that part out.

    Agree 100% manual -3.55 auto-3.73
  14. Is the reason because you'll have to much accel that shifting would be issue with 3.73s? As in not being able to shift fast enough? Or what? I guess I'm not getting why the extra accel with a manual will make a in AOD versus manual...

  15. An AOD is not as efficient as a stick in transmitting the power to the rear, so the lower gear is warranted. Many times car manufactureres will install a lower gear in an automatic vs. a stick to compensate for this.
  16. So from that reasoning...the manual is more efficient in transferring the you'll get more out a manual with 3.55s than a AOD with 3.55s.....but the same would go with 3.73s?

    Am I right?
  17. AOD's just have different gear ratios. You have 3 gears doing what you can do with 4 gears in a manual. So your torque multiplication is lower on the AOD due to the ratios.

    Add in the HP loss through an AOD, plus the added weight, and you'll find that shorter gears help overcome that hurdle.

    With a 5-spd manual, i'd do 3.55's if it's a car you spend most of the time crusing around with. Dragstrip car different story, but for a daily driver...3.55's. I've said it before on this site...i dislike my 3.73's in my 5-spd LX.

    As for the pulley setup, if you are going to reinstall AC, get a stock accessory setup that uses the automatic tensioner. It will compensate for belt stretch and your issues will be over.

    KEEP the quad shocks. You can remove them for now, but a good quality set of LCA's does not garantee you'll eliminate wheel hop. There are many variables that contribute. I have expensive max motorsports LCA's, steeda uppers, new shocks, rubber bushings, etc....and still had wheel hop without quads. I put on new ones and problem solved. Autozone sells gabriels for $20 each. They call them "steering dampeners". Chekc into them.

    If you want a GT-40 intake, look into an exploer intake manifold. You specifically want one from an early explorer with the internal EGR. One can be had for $75-100 and will free up cash for other mods. I, along with others, can give you plenty of reason why on a stockish mustang, you want to keep the EGR functional. Nothing to gain by removing it.
  18. This is the GT40 intake, upper, lower, and TB the guy has for $150....

    These will fit any 302? He said they are from late 90s Explorer

    Attached Files:

  19. Alright. It will depend on what I find/decide on what how to spend money. But I'll keep in mind the 355s. It isn't like I can't switch them, I'd like to do it just once.

    I was planning on getting a set of quads for cheap. I know Bilstein has a set for 100$ if I recall correctly. Or I could go the cheap route with a NAPA, Autozone, or Advanced set. Idk. Probably doesn't make a huge difference.
  20. get the quads are your local parts shop or online. Gabriel makes a cheap one that works well