Advise on hood scoops 65 Mustang

Woody3882

5 Year Member
Jun 19, 2018
84
9
18
Bradenton Fl 34212
I completed my 65 Mustang a while ago and the resto consisted of the installation of a generic fiberglass hood scoop. This is the bolt on style. The edges are starting to flex and the base/clear paint is lifting. Touch up just made a little problem bigger and now it looks like crap. So I am going to pull the scoop. Whereas the holes are in the hood I have to replace it with something. So My question to the forum members is What style of hood scoop would you recommend and any advise would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Woody
 
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woody i might suggest getting a new aftermarket hood with the scoop you want already built in. that way you dont have to worry abour fixing what you have and wondering if the same issue will crop up five years down the road.

another option would be to bond the scoop you have now in place on the hood, using the bolts to hold the scoop down. and then use fiberfill bondo to smooth out the seam and make it disappear before repainting the hood.
 
I’m looking for the same input - 65 fastback - I’ve for a steel hood that I’d like to keep. I’d like to add a hood scoop (mostly for aesthetic purposes, but functional would be a bonus) but I’d like it a little more aggressive than the Shelby scoop.
- What Are the options?
- where does one get something like that?
- who would be best to install it (I don’t really do body work)

side note, i would also like functional vents as well (yeah, yeah, I know).
 
Scott Drake has a steel version out now

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I bought the vacuum formed fiberglass hood with the steel frame that was originally the 66 Hertz style
Very nice!
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I ended up with the Scott Drake bolt on, I would recommend you bring it to a body shop with the correct color paint to have it painted before you install. When I installed mine I put masking tape on the entire location of the hood placement as not to scratch the hood. Also once the correct placement is found you can circle the bolts so you have a correct place to drill the holes. I used an old tube of the wife's lipstick on the end of the bolts and pressed lightly to leave a mark for drilling. Also get a big drop cloth and cover the entire engine bay because drill filing will go everywhere. Do not tighten the bolts, just snug them down. the fit might leave spacing at the bottom at the scoop but very day you can snug a bit more to close the gap. If you tighten up to much you will distort the scoop and it will look wrinkled. Just go easy with it and you will be fine. Take you time entering the scoop, once you drill then it is final.
Good luck
Woody
 
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I tried to get a Tony Branda fibreglass Shelby hood with built in scoop to not look like fibreglass by having it painted 3 times. Gave up and had a local metalman make one to my specifications and welded to my steel hood. Came out great but expensive.
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From memory it was $1200 for the forming and attaching the scoop and $1000 for preparing and painting the hood. This is in Australia, I dont know how your labor charges for top tradesmen compare with ours.

If Drake sells a metal scoop it would be the to go provided it can be welded.
 

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I've heard that old saying that you can't get fiberglass to look like metal before and I always wondered why. The glass hood on my Mustang looks exactly like the steel fenders next to it. There's no grain pattern, no stress cracks, the finish is identical and it's driven far more than most vintage Mustangs. I painted it in (I think) 2006 and used House of Kolor products from primer to clear. I'm just curious, but what is it that some people are doing different?
 
My hood was Maier and was a pile. Lots of cutting, shaping, filing, as was my nose-piece. I think a big reason is not using catalyzed sealer, which will then allow the solvents in the base to re-activate filler and primer and allow sanding scratches and fiberglass threads on repair to show. I prefer House of Kolor, but have used PPG and DuPont with good results.
 
It matters what type of materials were used in making the hood or parts as well ,ORTHO resin will not stand up to heat ,it will warp and distort ,that is what a lot of the companies are using . You want at least ISO resin ,it gets stronger with heat and sounds like metal when you close a hood . There is better materials than ISO but you will pay for it .
 
The glass hood I had was from Tony Branda (18 years ago) I thought they were considered a quality product. I dont think there was any other manufacturers around then. I was warned that any f'glass parts would require work to fit properly and that was correct. I have only ever used HOK candy so the problem was not the paint. No matter how much the painter smoothed the hood, after a few months (driving the car, not parked under cover) you could pick that the hood surface was different to the metal guards.
I guess there is a secret to getting a perfect surface as I'm sure the concours guys would not accept second rate.