AEM 30-4110 to PIMPXS sanity check

fasterthangas

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Newbie here and a bit confused about WB wiring. My WB has the red, black, blue and white wires with white being the 5v reference.
The car is a '94 Mustang GT.

I've wired the red wire to switched 12v.
Black wire to chassis ground.
Blue wire not used.
White wire is where I'm confused. Does it connect to the factory narrow band wire at the factory ECU plug? Passenger O2 or driver's O2?
Is a chassis ground fine for the black wire or does it need to be grounded to the Pimp ECU?

Thanks!!!
 
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a91what

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The pimpxs comes with detailed instructions as to where to take the input. Typically this is one of the narrowband input wires.
 

fasterthangas

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The pimpxs comes with detailed instructions as to where to take the input. Typically this is one of the narrowband input wires.
Looks like the forum is working again. Anywhoo; I read the directions multiple times and came away a bit confused. I'd rather ask when in doubt. My main concern, as I stated; is whether the WB gauge ground (Black wire) goes to chassis or the ECU ground? Is there a preference? It's possible that I missed something in reading.
 

a91what

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You want to minimize ground plane differences so grounding it near the exu is advisable. Most newer WB come with a sensor ground and a Heater ground to help with this issue.
 
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DemonGT

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"The oxygen sensor input of your new ECU is connected to the factory EEC o2 sensor wiring (pin 29 for single sensor – passenger side on dual exhaust V8’s). Any aftermarket wideband controllers with a 0-5v linear output will work.

4 wires are available at the stock o2 connector. Wire colors:
Spartan Color  Harness Color  Wire Purpose
Red 12v  Grey/Yellow  Keyed 12v Power
Green Signal Out  Grey/Light Blue  Pin 29 Signal
Black Signal GND  Grey/Red  Pin 46 (Signal Return)
White HTR GND  Black  Pin 40/60 (Power Ground)


If you would rather connect Wideband inside the car near the ECU (Cut/Modify Harness):

Red 12v  Keyed 12v Power
Green Signal Out  Pin 29 Signal (Also Tied to Solid AFR Digital Gauge)
Black Signal GND  Pin 46 (Signal Return) or Case Ground Terminal
White HTR GND  Pin 40/60 (Power Ground) or Chassis Ground"
 

fasterthangas

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Oct 5, 2016
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"The oxygen sensor input of your new ECU is connected to the factory EEC o2 sensor wiring (pin 29 for single sensor – passenger side on dual exhaust V8’s). Any aftermarket wideband controllers with a 0-5v linear output will work.

4 wires are available at the stock o2 connector. Wire colors:
Spartan Color  Harness Color  Wire Purpose
Red 12v  Grey/Yellow  Keyed 12v Power
Green Signal Out  Grey/Light Blue  Pin 29 Signal
Black Signal GND  Grey/Red  Pin 46 (Signal Return)
White HTR GND  Black  Pin 40/60 (Power Ground)


If you would rather connect Wideband inside the car near the ECU (Cut/Modify Harness):

Red 12v  Keyed 12v Power
Green Signal Out  Pin 29 Signal (Also Tied to Solid AFR Digital Gauge)
Black Signal GND  Pin 46 (Signal Return) or Case Ground Terminal
White HTR GND  Pin 40/60 (Power Ground) or Chassis Ground"

This is where I get confused. I'm hooking my WB gauge/controller up inside of the car.

The way this is worded in the setup section is very confusing. It would be so much easier if the Spartan and AEM requirements were separated into two categories. Having arrows going from one controller to a color and back to a different controller/color is unlike anything I've seen. If it were set up like a chart; it would be so much easier to comprehend. I'm not whining but rather describing how I read it. Maybe it's just me?

To add to the confusion; my PIMPXS startup guide states the below for Speed Density Mustangs up to '95. I guess I assumed that the directions are aimed at users doing away with the MAF, thus making their/my car ('94 GT) speed density? To clarify; my car won't be using a MAF.

"If you would rather connect Wideband inside the car near the ECU (Cut/Modify Harness):
Spartan 2 Red 12v → Keyed 12v Power → AEM Red
Spartan 2 Green Signal Out → Pin 29 Signal (Also Teed to Solid AFR Digital Gauge) → AEM White
Spartan 2 Black Signal GND → Tee to Pin 46 (Signal Ret) or Case Ground Terminal → AEM Brown
Spartan 2 White HTR GND → Tee to Pin 40/60 (Power Ground) or Chassis Ground → AEM Black"

My intentions:
AEM wiring inside of car from gauge/controller to PIMPXS: (Speed density vehicles)

Red to switched 12v
Black to ECU case or chassis ground
White 12v reference to pin 29
Blue-Not used.


Please excuse my ignorance. I'm 60 years old and we had no computers when I went to school. It's a minor miracle that I've gotten this far. Lol.
Thanks.
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
May 15, 2018
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This is where I get confused. I'm hooking my WB gauge/controller up inside of the car.

The way this is worded in the setup section is very confusing. It would be so much easier if the Spartan and AEM requirements were separated into two categories. Having arrows going from one controller to a color and back to a different controller/color is unlike anything I've seen. If it were set up like a chart; it would be so much easier to comprehend. I'm not whining but rather describing how I read it. Maybe it's just me?

To add to the confusion; my PIMPXS startup guide states the below for Speed Density Mustangs up to '95. I guess I assumed that the directions are aimed at users doing away with the MAF, thus making their/my car ('94 GT) speed density? To clarify; my car won't be using a MAF.

"If you would rather connect Wideband inside the car near the ECU (Cut/Modify Harness):
Spartan 2 Red 12v → Keyed 12v Power → AEM Red
Spartan 2 Green Signal Out → Pin 29 Signal (Also Teed to Solid AFR Digital Gauge) → AEM White
Spartan 2 Black Signal GND → Tee to Pin 46 (Signal Ret) or Case Ground Terminal → AEM Brown
Spartan 2 White HTR GND → Tee to Pin 40/60 (Power Ground) or Chassis Ground → AEM Black"

My intentions:
AEM wiring inside of car from gauge/controller to PIMPXS: (Speed density vehicles)

Red to switched 12v
Black to ECU case or chassis ground
White 12v reference to pin 29
Blue-Not used.


Please excuse my ignorance. I'm 60 years old and we had no computers when I went to school. It's a minor miracle that I've gotten this far. Lol.
Thanks.
I believe the only difference between the 94/95 and pre 93 cars is that the sn95 have a signal and heater ground built into 2 separate wires, while the fox has them both on the same ground.

I hack the pigtail off an old narrowband, splice the 5v signal wire from the wideband onto the narrowband pigtail, and then shrink wrap the other two pre existing wires separately. The only thing the pimp needs to see is the 5v signal. Run the ground from the wideband to a clean chassis ground and your 12v switched power and you’re all set. If you are able to run the sensor ground to the ecu sensor ground that’s good, but it really doesn’t make a difference as long as you have a clean chassis ground.
 
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fasterthangas

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Oct 5, 2016
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I believe the only difference between the 94/95 and pre 93 cars is that the sn95 have a signal and heater ground built into 2 separate wires, while the fox has them both on the same ground.

I hack the pigtail off an old narrowband, splice the 5v signal wire from the wideband onto the narrowband pigtail, and then shrink wrap the other two pre existing wires separately. The only thing the pimp needs to see is the 5v signal. Run the ground from the wideband to a clean chassis ground and your 12v switched power and you’re all set. If you are able to run the sensor ground to the ecu sensor ground that’s good, but it really doesn’t make a difference as long as you have a clean chassis ground.
Thank you.
I planned on just running the 5v reference wire from WB gauge to pin 29. Does that sound correct?
 

96pushrod

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May 15, 2018
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fasterthangas

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Lmk if you need a quick tutorial on removing the pins from the 60 pin connector. It’s quite simple though.
Aha! I forgot that the resulting pinout would differ from the 94-95 pinout. Senior moment right there. I will then tap the WB 5v reference into the pin 44 wire that is now in the pin 29 spot. GRY/LT BLU
I remove the red "H" shaped pin retainer on the ECU harness plug.
Pins can be pushed in and out of the plug with a small flat screwdriver.
Correct?
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
May 15, 2018
993
600
103
29
Savannah
Aha! I forgot that the resulting pinout would differ from the 94-95 pinout. Senior moment right there. I will then tap the WB 5v reference into the pin 44 wire that is now in the pin 29 spot. GRY/LT BLU
I remove the red "H" shaped pin retainer on the ECU harness plug.
Pins can be pushed in and out of the plug with a small flat screwdriver.
Correct?
Happens to all of us lol.

Yes, pry them red lock tab out using a small flat head, or a pick. Alternate from side to side, but they usually come out without trouble.

Then use either a very small screwdriver, pick, de-pinning tool, etc to push down on the locking tab from the front and slide the pin out. I have a bunch of small pin removal tools I bought awhile back from Amazon to make getting them out easier.
 
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