That's just bad advice. There's nothing special about edelbrock heads. They're standard position, standard angle, 2.02 IV heads. If they fit, all others that meet that criteria are going to work out fitting, too.
Aftermarket head question
- Thread starter Mxbadboy03
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Yes it is a 75mm port and would have to be ported also the option of the 90deg elbow?
What RPM range on your cam? Probably better off with long runners on the street, if you're keeping it at 6,500 and below as you should on the stock block. The elbow does make it easy to work on stuff around the engine bay, though. I have one on one of my cars.
NVM, I found it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-20350711/overview/make/ford
That's a lower RPM cam that has some nice specs for a street car. I like the split pattern, though I'd prefer slightly more intake duration. The LSA should make that a very streetable cam. Will idle and drive nice, and provide plenty of vacuum, with a noticeable but not outrageous lope.
Yeah, I think a long-runner intake will better compliment that cam than an elbow. Good idea on the long-tubes, too. Gonna have a nice broad torque band. Should be a blast on the street!
That's a lower RPM cam that has some nice specs for a street car. I like the split pattern, though I'd prefer slightly more intake duration. The LSA should make that a very streetable cam. Will idle and drive nice, and provide plenty of vacuum, with a noticeable but not outrageous lope.
Yeah, I think a long-runner intake will better compliment that cam than an elbow. Good idea on the long-tubes, too. Gonna have a nice broad torque band. Should be a blast on the street!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Camshaft is 22-6200 but as lunati said it is underrated and has still produced power to 6700. Me personally 6500 probably be max for me will dyno to find out where it falls off no need to turn more if it’s not making power
Yes the 20350712 has more lift and duro but my guy I deal with at lunati says most people prefer the cam I’m using Bc it’s underrated and can make power to close same rpm and has quite a few people by the bigger cam and end up ordering the cam I have afterwords and claim they are much happier
Those two cams are not in the same ballpark. I wouldn't run the 2nd in a street car, but some would.
Ok, so to jump in on this. I have seen several post regarding the twisted wedge heads not clearing an inline valve relief piston. This just isn't true. While I run AFR heads, there are tons of documented cars running the TFS heads on inline pistons. The new 11r's have so much clearance that they can be ran on the 1985(?) non relief heads. The fact that the valve is twisted toward the center of the chamber gives it more clearance.
Now, obviously if you wanted to leave nothing on the table with the cam, matching pistons would be ideal.
As far as the 2.02 heads working, you will just need to check. The issue won't be the depth of the valve pockets, but rather the width of them. If those pistons are a factory replacement level piston, they may not work, but most anything over a factory level forged piston should have a 2.02 compatible relief. And I agree, DSS stuff is on the lower level, but that's just my opinion.
Joe
Now, obviously if you wanted to leave nothing on the table with the cam, matching pistons would be ideal.
As far as the 2.02 heads working, you will just need to check. The issue won't be the depth of the valve pockets, but rather the width of them. If those pistons are a factory replacement level piston, they may not work, but most anything over a factory level forged piston should have a 2.02 compatible relief. And I agree, DSS stuff is on the lower level, but that's just my opinion.
Joe
u are correct the bigger is less streetable I’ve seen few guys run it and it sounded really good but didn’t impress me when they showed what it had. Me personally I like lunati Bc they make good power and torque and very nice sounding
Just so you know, you won’t find a 80mm Tb for a 94/95 mustang. Biggest they make is a 75mm, which will be fine for you.
Unless you convert to fox body style.
I'm not. It's a long-runner. Should be fine. The runners are a little shorter than a normal Edelbrock performer. Since you asked, I think a ported Performer would be the ideal intake. The RPMII will exceed it at high RPM, and the crossover point should be anywhere from 5300 to 5800 RPM. However, the Performer will probably average more power with that cam. Both the Performer and Performer RPMII have the same lower.
It comes down to where you want to make your power/torque, and how it matches up with the rest of the combination. Matching the intake to your cam in this case is where I come up with the Performer as the ideal. It's really close in numbers to a Cobra/GT40/explorer intake, but it flows slightly more stock as well as when they're both ported.
It comes down to where you want to make your power/torque, and how it matches up with the rest of the combination. Matching the intake to your cam in this case is where I come up with the Performer as the ideal. It's really close in numbers to a Cobra/GT40/explorer intake, but it flows slightly more stock as well as when they're both ported.
dustoff74
Member
*sigh......what does any of that mean?
You are blindly going down a rabbit hole. You do not understand what you're buying, nonetheless you're buying it anyway. What cam? And why did you choose it?
There is more to building an engine than just choosing a bunch of stuff from a parts catalog. If you trust DSS to advise you, then why not consider buying a complete engine from them? They've got a whole bunch of proven combos already sitting on a pallet just waiting for you to buy it.
All anybody needs to know about buying the wrong sht for an engine can be found out by a simple phone call to my cousin in Council Bluffs IA.
He'll tell you how he traded a complete 350 short block for a worn out 302 ( Chevrolet 302, because he had a hard on for the Z28 Camaro back in the day,.and z28's had 302's in them). He'll tell you how he put the biggest freakin cam he could find in that engine, and with only had a 3.08 gear set and a 2500 stall converter in a turbo 350, ended up with a car that took a half hour to get through the quarter mile.
Hell also tell you how ( because he didn't know jack about building engines) , he just didn't bother to put all of the oil galley plugs back in...and he'll go on to tell you that he couldn't figure out why the engine had zero oil pressure at start up.
Then he'll tell you that even after his cousin finally talked him into building a 396, he couldn't wait till the cousin came over to his house to install the timing set for him, and he'll tell you that he did it himself instead, and ( because he didn't know jack about building engines) put the dots on the timing set 180 degrees apart from each other... Then he'll tell you how after attempting to start that engine ( unsuccessfully) he bent every single valve in the head when they crashed into the Pistons.
Because he couldn't wait for his cousin to do it for him.
I could go on......But again,..you should get the gist of the story.
If you don't understand the stuff you're buying, then you are straight out wasting your money. Pay somebody to do this for you, or spend the time required to learn it before you buy it. After all, you may not have a cousin to help you, and you'll end up blowing up a whole bunch of sht in the meantime..
Just ask my cousin from Iowa.
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL- LMAO from the first sentence. I do enjoy when someone else says the exact words that came to my mind !!!
Similar threads
