Aftermarket Head Unit on Mach 460

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I dont understand why so many people say it can't be done, maybe this is true in 2000 and up stangs, but on 94-2000 that have the Mach 460, it can be done, I just did this myself about 5 weeks ago.

32vmonster said:
there is an adapter that you have to buy.

You will need an adapter, so just go to your stereo shop and say you have a whatever year Mustang and that you need the premium sound adapter. Al & Ed's hooked me up with one for like 15 bucks. Then you just solder all the wires to your new HU's wires, then plug everything up.

Some people might say that you need some type of gain adjuster to make this work, but my HU has 5v preouts and I havent had any problems with distorting or anything, and I have been driving my car every day for the past 5 weeks and its not like I keep the volume that low. If you want to be safe and not have any risk of frying an amp, you can get the gain adjuster online somewhere for like 30 bucks i think.
 
Well I just used a line out converter which taps into the data cable in the back under the amps and it actually sounds pretty good. I have 2 12's but I've only got one in there right now until I get some more supplies. But I don't have to worry about voices coming out of the sub because I have a MTX crossover hooked up to it. So, other than not being able to use the Pioneer 9300 I'm happy with it. Thanks for the help.
 
My system is eating the disc and not spitting it back up. I was told three different things from, Audio Express, Berge Ford, and ISS. AE said i have to re-wire the entire car, because they wanted to make 1000 dollars off me. Berge said i just have to replace the Head Unit, and the Amp, and ISS said to replace it with the factory HU which is dis-continued. I am not gonna mess with re-wiring, so I just want to be clear on this, I can put on an aftermarket deck in her, and she will be fine right(after i get the adaptors). or do i even have to mess with adaptors?
 
How about doing the oposite of this???

I want to use the factory unit and use a 4 channel amp and run front speakers and a sub or front and rear speakers. I know it can be done by using line out converters but I won't have any adjustability as far as fade or balance if I tap in to the data cable in the trunk. Can I put 2 line out converters right after the factory head unit to each output (lf,rf,rr,rl). and run 2 sets of RCAs to my amp? so that I will have all the adjustablility.


Edit: I have the two piece mach460. Which one of the connecters on the head unit are the speaker outputs?
Edit 2: Does the data cable in the trunk have all the frequency range on it or is it only low frequescies (I think the rear speakers on the factory system gives only lows???)

Thanks

Serkan
 
What you're saying is possible. Yes, the data cable only carries the low signals. If you want the high signals. There are actually some speaker wires that you can tap above the rear deck. When you fold down your seats, the rear headrest comes off by taking off the (3) 8mm bolts. The bolts are located right above the hooks that hold up your rear seats. there will then be two plastic clips that hold the rear deck speaker covers down. Remove those and lift up the rear deck, You should see four wires.
This is for the 01' mustang

Pos. Neg.
Left Rear - gry/blu Tan/Yel
Right Rear- Orn/Red Brn/Pnk
Left Front- Orn/Grn Blu/Wht
Right Front-Wht/Grn Grn/Orn
 
Thanks alot for the wire information. I will check if my (99) wires are the same as the ones you sent me if it is I guess it the system is the same with 01 mustangs. If not I will have to find diagrams for 99.


Thanks alot.

serkan
 
pt123 said:
What you're saying is possible. Yes, the data cable only carries the low signals. If you want the high signals. There are actually some speaker wires that you can tap above the rear deck. When you fold down your seats, the rear headrest comes off by taking off the (3) 8mm bolts. The bolts are located right above the hooks that hold up your rear seats. there will then be two plastic clips that hold the rear deck speaker covers down. Remove those and lift up the rear deck, You should see four wires.
This is for the 01' mustang

Pos. Neg.
Left Rear - gry/blu Tan/Yel
Right Rear- Orn/Red Brn/Pnk
Left Front- Orn/Grn Blu/Wht
Right Front-Wht/Grn Grn/Orn

Ok one more question. Does these wires carry the high signals? I read that the amp in the dash is for the tweeters (highs) and the signal is carried back to the rear amps for the mids/lows.
 
MGSTANG said:
Well I just used a line out converter which taps into the data cable in the back under the amps and it actually sounds pretty good. I have 2 12's but I've only got one in there right now until I get some more supplies. But I don't have to worry about voices coming out of the sub because I have a MTX crossover hooked up to it. So, other than not being able to use the Pioneer 9300 I'm happy with it. Thanks for the help.

I am getting ready to install the line out conveter this coming weekend. My line converter does not have the adjustments on it though..is this oK? Also where did u run your remote lead to? How hard was it to run your power and remote lead cables. I haven't taken any panels off, so just want to get a heads up in case you encountered any problems. Which side did you run the power and lead cables? thanks
 
rleyba said:
I am getting ready to install the line out conveter this coming weekend. My line converter does not have the adjustments on it though..is this oK? Also where did u run your remote lead to? How hard was it to run your power and remote lead cables. I haven't taken any panels off, so just want to get a heads up in case you encountered any problems. Which side did you run the power and lead cables? thanks
I can't answer about the adjustments because I don't know, mine has them but I didn't change anything. I just ran my remote lead from the amp to one of the fuses in the fuse box, I just ended up using the ac fan fuse. Even though that means the amp only works when the car is in the on position, not the back key position. I ran the wires down the drivers side because that's where the battery is and through one of the grommets. If you have a V6 its really easier because theres a grommet not really being used. But on the GT 5speed you have to try and put a hole through the wireing harness by the firewall/drivers side fender or drill a hole in your firewall. I just went through the harness grommet (Thats the hardest part) and I had 4 gauge wire which made it worse. Anything else, let me know.
 
MGSTANG said:
I can't answer about the adjustments because I don't know, mine has them but I didn't change anything. I just ran my remote lead from the amp to one of the fuses in the fuse box, I just ended up using the ac fan fuse. Even though that means the amp only works when the car is in the on position, not the back key position. I ran the wires down the drivers side because that's where the battery is and through one of the grommets. If you have a V6 its really easier because theres a grommet not really being used. But on the GT 5speed you have to try and put a hole through the wireing harness by the firewall/drivers side fender or drill a hole in your firewall. I just went through the harness grommet (Thats the hardest part) and I had 4 gauge wire which made it worse. Anything else, let me know.

Thanks for the reply. I have a 03 Mach and it's 5-sp, and I will also be using a 4ga power wire, hopefully I won't have a hard time getting through the firewall. How hard is it to remove the panels or scuff plates? Also did you run the remote wire parallel with the power wire? Thanks again! :D