All supercharged applications...help me out...

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Get a 2.2 KB and have it tuned to only 6-7psi so you wont go over 400-415 rwhp and blow your stock engine. Then use that setup until you have enough money for a built shortblock and increase your boost to have a complete street beast
 
All you need is gears and the problem with the centris having some what of a "lag" is gone. I have 4.10s in my car and at any speed my car pulls very strong. Might not be as crazy as a KB but it still pulls damn hard.
 
Turbo's just use the exhuast side, and the centri's just use the intake side.
No the centri's don't use the "intake side", belt-driven doesn't = intake.

You can also control boost with a centri setup, whereas you'd have to change pulleys on a twin screw or roots type.
:nonono: You can control the boost with a turbo, not on a supercharger. I guess you could blow off over a certain pressure, but there's no boost controller per sé, like a turbo. And you have to change pulleys on a screw, roots, or centri for more boost...they're all driven the same way.

A centri might be a faster setup in some cases compared to a roots/twin screw.. but I'll still take the instant power and torque. The feel of instant power is worth it to me.
Like someone else said in this thread, after a downshift and with the proper gearing, there is no "lag" and you won't be out of the centri powerband.
 
I somehow felt this was going to end up in another centri/twin screw debate. It's funny how quick the twin screw guys are so eager to trash the centri's. Maybe it's because we spend nearly half the cost for a SC setup and can still do just as good, perhaps better? :eek:

I keep hearing "twin screw for the street, centri for the track". Then I hear "twin screw=instant boost, centri=boost lag". A drag race is a test of the car's ability to accelerate from a dead stop. A highway street race (such as the one the thread starter is seeking) is to test the ability of a car to accelerate while moving, generally relying more on HP than TQ to sustain higher speeds. Tell me how is a highway race on the street going to be an advantage with a twin screw with all that instant boost on tap? It's not like I'm going to race somebody and lug my car under 3500 rpms in 4th gear. Now at the dragstrip, you can certainly take advantage of that instant boost, but then again there are traction issues. So when it's all said and done, a centri car might even benefit you more in BOTH situations.

It is true that with the twin screw you'll build boost instantly, but as mentioned before if you're racing somebody you're going to downshift to your optimal gear and floor it. If that is the case BOTH cars are in boost and the whole "instant" response from a twin screw isn't an argument anymore.
 
I have driven and tuned on many centrifugal modulars and even owned a Procharged 5.0. None of the centrifugal cars I have driven or tuned had any of this "lag" or a wait for boost. The instant you downshift you are in boost, if not something is wrong. Given perfect traction, a roots/screw can get the dig on a centrifugal blower, but the centrifugal will very quickly reel them in and pass them if setup properly. There is far more power potential with a centrifugal depending on which head unit you choose.

When you launch either one of them, your RPM's should never drop below 4500 RPM's between gears anyway, so it's a moot point to say that you have to wait for the centrifugal to make boost from RPM's.

IMO, centrifugal cars are much more fun to drive on the street. Half the Cobras I race and beat around here end up just fish tailing in my rear view mirror.:D
 
5K to 6K to spend...

You want 500+ rwhp...?

No way.

You really need to build up your engine before trying that level.

Spend the 6K on a KB 2.1L IC 9psi. You'll have the whole cooling system with fenderwell CAI and you can run over 400hp at your own risk.

The KB has some great torque down low... the way it should be.

But then spend more money and build up your bottom end and then up your pulley to 14psi...

And then... spray... :rlaugh:
 
So I'm guessing there's a difference between the old Cobra 2.2L and the old GT 2.2L...

I get the feeling this isn't much better than the "Will a 03 Cobra supercharger fit on my GT?!?!!1!/?" question.

Only asking cuz I saw one on ebay and got excited, but then saw a picture of it on a Cobra... :(
 
well, i see a point. the old cobrs 2.2 was capable of higher boost levels while the new 2.2 gt one stil maxes out at 14psi. which probably is over spinning it anyway.
 
well, i see a point. the old cobrs 2.2 was capable of higher boost levels while the new 2.2 gt one stil maxes out at 14psi. which probably is over spinning it anyway.

FYI there is no new 2.2 for the 2v. It's a 2.6 and it's good for 25# give or take. The new 2.1 that replaced the 1.7 is good for 14-16 I would guess. They just did a swap on a 96 built motor in M/F magazine and got an extra 50hp and 3# of boost with the same pulley just by swapping the 2.1 for the 1.7.
 
well, i meant what ever the old higher model was (2.2) compaired to the new gt 2.1. the old cobra one was capable of high boost and the new gt is still limited and at its peak will be spinning very hard to make that peak boost.

i guess his question is would the old cobra version2.2 work on a gt. maybe he needs higher boost but would like to pay the used price of the older model.:shrug:
 
Haha...soooo many options, I'm still a tad bit indecisive...

I'm thinkin...

Buy the T-Trim and paxton a/a now...

Buy the shortblock/cams/heads later...

Run around 550-600 horses...after OTHER upgrades...(fuel system and what not)

And buy my axles...rear diff...and other goodies in between...

How are you T-trim guys feelin right now??? Any one wish they had done it differently??? Its very important to me that I do it right the first time...and sux cause i've never been in a KB gt or a Centri gt...only an 03 cobra...(close enough)

thanx guys for all the feedback...:SNSign: