Any suggestions on getting the engine to align with the opening on the motor mounts
Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)
- Thread starter Jhp84
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Do we disconnect the exhaust? If so, where? At the front by the O2 sensors or behind the transmission?
Do we lift the engine with the sling? Or from below? One side at a time or evenly? If from below, where is best place for the jack? At the oil pan with a block of wood? Do we also lift the transmission?
Would it be better to borrow a hoist?
A lot of questions, we know. Looked through a number of YouTube and most make it seem as simple as lift, remove, replace, and on to the next thing. Maybe it is, but we are learning together, so we turning to the experts.
Thanks, Jhp & son.
Do we disconnect the exhaust? If so, where? At the front by the O2 sensors or behind the transmission?
Do we lift the engine with the sling? Or from below? One side at a time or evenly? If from below, where is best place for the jack? At the oil pan with a block of wood? Do we also lift the transmission?
Would it be better to borrow a hoist?
A lot of questions, we know. Looked through a number of YouTube and most make it seem as simple as lift, remove, replace, and on to the next thing. Maybe it is, but we are learning together, so we turning to the experts.
Thanks, Jhp & son.
Look, your making it sound like rocket science.
I've swapped motor mounts with long tube headers and full exhaust hooked up using a floor jack and a piece of wood. Never touched the trans mount.
If I understand correctly you suspended the engine and removed the k member then reinstalled it now you are having trouble with the motor mounts correct? Like I said before, bolt the mounts to the block, then you can pry the mount as you lower one side of the engine at a time into the hole on the k member.
I've swapped motor mounts with long tube headers and full exhaust hooked up using a floor jack and a piece of wood. Never touched the trans mount.
If I understand correctly you suspended the engine and removed the k member then reinstalled it now you are having trouble with the motor mounts correct? Like I said before, bolt the mounts to the block, then you can pry the mount as you lower one side of the engine at a time into the hole on the k member.
Yep, not rocket science, but the dang engine sure moved forward a bunch. My son and I couldn’t move it back into place. Ended up borrowing a hoist, grabbing a three-foot pry bar, and forcing the engine back up incline of the driveway. Bit touch and go for a while there. Gotta tell you though, a great feeling getting it into place, and now we are inspired to tackle the rear suspension next (we agreed to move onto flat ground first).
Been reading a number of posts on suspension in the forum and looking at the YouTube video that Warhorse Racing has on his channel. Had thought about leaving the original springs but given that we’ve come this far, it looks like we might be replacing both front and rear springs on the Fox Body. If we understood correctly, he suggests going with a Ford Performance C Spring because it lowers the car slightly. Not sure where, but we came across a thread about H & R springs and Maximum Motorsports springs, both of which lower the car slightly more in the front and rear (and both of which are progressive rather than linear). All within the same price range. For a car that will essentially be a daily driver, is it better to have linear versus progressive springs? And, if we use new isolators in the install, would this add back some of the height? On the rear, we are thinking about replacing the upper and lower control arms as well. Any thoughts on tubular steel versus box steel types? What about reconditioned control arms vs new ones?
Yes, given our track record, who knows how long it will take us. But, that’s okay. Just more time hanging out with the young man. He can still use the Monte Carlo while we work on this.
Thx for the patience...
Been reading a number of posts on suspension in the forum and looking at the YouTube video that Warhorse Racing has on his channel. Had thought about leaving the original springs but given that we’ve come this far, it looks like we might be replacing both front and rear springs on the Fox Body. If we understood correctly, he suggests going with a Ford Performance C Spring because it lowers the car slightly. Not sure where, but we came across a thread about H & R springs and Maximum Motorsports springs, both of which lower the car slightly more in the front and rear (and both of which are progressive rather than linear). All within the same price range. For a car that will essentially be a daily driver, is it better to have linear versus progressive springs? And, if we use new isolators in the install, would this add back some of the height? On the rear, we are thinking about replacing the upper and lower control arms as well. Any thoughts on tubular steel versus box steel types? What about reconditioned control arms vs new ones?
Yes, given our track record, who knows how long it will take us. But, that’s okay. Just more time hanging out with the young man. He can still use the Monte Carlo while we work on this.
Thx for the patience...
Blown88GT
Founding Member
Anything from MM is good. Get all from them.
Go with the progressive springs with a drop of no more than 1 inch.
Might as well do the UCA's & LCA's at the same time, tubular or boxed, doesn't matter.
Both are better than the factory c-channel ones.
What about shocks? Springs without shocks makes little sense.
Tokico's are about the best, but the most expensive. The Illumina 5-ways are adjustable, the non-adjustable are at the middle setting.
These appear to be the 5-way adjustable, i.e. the little red knob on top.
They have some NOS ones here: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/sale_items.aspx
Go with the progressive springs with a drop of no more than 1 inch.
Might as well do the UCA's & LCA's at the same time, tubular or boxed, doesn't matter.
Both are better than the factory c-channel ones.
What about shocks? Springs without shocks makes little sense.
Tokico's are about the best, but the most expensive. The Illumina 5-ways are adjustable, the non-adjustable are at the middle setting.
These appear to be the 5-way adjustable, i.e. the little red knob on top.
They have some NOS ones here: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/sale_items.aspx
Thanks for the lead on the Tokico. Called this morning and spent some time with the salesman at MM. Ordered the Tokico shocks, but when he went to pull the order, he said the website probably hadn’t been updated because he couldn’t find them. Picked up a set of MM springs, isolators, and rear differential bushing. Yes, we are thinking of replacing the UCA and LCA, as well as the shocks. Quick question, why are the quad shocks so expensive compared to rear shocks? And, we seen threads were folks don’t replace them when they increase the tire size. How critical are the quad shocks for a daily driver? Should we replace them or remove them?
The consensus is, and I have no personal experience going 'quadless', if you go to an aftermarket lower control arm you can loose the quad shocks, of course you need to address the uppers too, most replace with stock style uppers with better bushings including the housing bushings.
Been a long slog, and thought we were just about to wrap up work on the front end. Seems we have misplaced (tossed out?) the power steering cooler tube. Wondering if we can just connect the two ends for now, until we can find or purchase another?
Also, noticed that the soft fuel lines (vinyl with rubber outer covering) are leaking; the ones that connect the hard fuel lines to the fuel rail. It seems the leak is coming from between the outer covering and the vinyl line. Looked at the local parts stores, and they don’t seem to have these parts. Can we just replace with standard fuel lines?
Thanks, Jhp84 & son
Also, noticed that the soft fuel lines (vinyl with rubber outer covering) are leaking; the ones that connect the hard fuel lines to the fuel rail. It seems the leak is coming from between the outer covering and the vinyl line. Looked at the local parts stores, and they don’t seem to have these parts. Can we just replace with standard fuel lines?
Thanks, Jhp84 & son
The car has been on the road for a bit now. Couple of things my son mentioned recently. He asked me to “check with the pros" about fuel consumption, high temperature (hovering around 270), carbon deposit on the plenum, and “skipping” on the AOD. He is averaging 10-11 mpg and noticed that the temperature gauge rises fairly quickly, even when on the freeway. Plenty of coolant and thermostat working. The oil has been recently changed oil (less than a month ago). No AC. As for the deposit, he says there is an obvious difference in the front from the rear. He says plugs also show a difference. No noticeable smoke out the back and the engine seems to run really smooth. I didn’t understand him on the transmission concern until it happened to me while driving with him. The gears seem to shift fairly well but occasionally, it will slip just before changing gears. Noticed it more on the high end shifting.
Any thoughts on any of these issues?
Any thoughts on any of these issues?
Finally getting back to working on the 5.0 after picking up a 1955 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria (“learning” about the Y Block carburetor engines of all things).
We have checked out a number of threads on the speedometer gauge/cable but not quite sure the descriptions match the issue we have. The gauge seems to do fine while we are going under 40 mph. Once we pass that speed, however, the needle jumps all the way over to the maximum speed and starts “clicking” like crazy.
We started removing the cluster to replace the cable, but we’re wondering if there is a way to check to see if the issue lies in the cluster? After all, the needle doesn’t bounce under 40 mph; it just flips over to the other side once we go faster than that. And, as far we can tell, the odometer seems to record the correct mileage. My son used an app to “calibrate" the tachometer to gauge the speed (either in drive or in overdrive) to keep from speeding.
Thanks for any insight or reference to a thread if this is mentioned elsewhere.
Be safe and happy Father’s Day to the dads.
Jhp $& don
We have checked out a number of threads on the speedometer gauge/cable but not quite sure the descriptions match the issue we have. The gauge seems to do fine while we are going under 40 mph. Once we pass that speed, however, the needle jumps all the way over to the maximum speed and starts “clicking” like crazy.
We started removing the cluster to replace the cable, but we’re wondering if there is a way to check to see if the issue lies in the cluster? After all, the needle doesn’t bounce under 40 mph; it just flips over to the other side once we go faster than that. And, as far we can tell, the odometer seems to record the correct mileage. My son used an app to “calibrate" the tachometer to gauge the speed (either in drive or in overdrive) to keep from speeding.
Thanks for any insight or reference to a thread if this is mentioned elsewhere.
Be safe and happy Father’s Day to the dads.
Jhp $& don
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