On a completely different note, we were looking on a Monte Carlo forum about a "low oil pressure" red dash warning notice on my 2000 MC and came across a lengthy thread about oil pumps, oil pressure switches, and oil filters.
The thread was highly critical of Fram oil flters. Got us to wondering about the different quality/characteristics of filters (oil, transmission, fuel, air). Do the different manufacturers actually produce significantly different products? Aren't most made overseas, even Ford branded parts?
Back at it again this weekend. Finally got around to replacing the rack and pinion (R&P). We had picked up a use one that seemed reasonably priced. Looked up a few videos on removing the R&P from the frame. Almost all mentioned removing a bolt at the rag joint and described this bolt as fitting into a groove on the shaft. My son and I could see the groove on the replacement R&P, and understood how this worked out. However, when we got under the car, we didn't see the same set up. Instead, we noticed that there was a bolt that ran through a u-shaped bracket that held the rack to the rag joint. We didn't take a picture of the bracket, but in the photos below you can see how different these connecting rods are in the two R&P. So, we would like to know if this is going to present a problem. Can these be swapped without damaging the R&P or subjecting it to future leaks?
Also, while we down there, we noticed that a number of bushings seemed pretty worn out. We decided that because we were already down there, we should take the time to replace them (lower control arm, sway bar, sway bar link, and R&P) along with the tie rods and bellows. Went to the auto parts store and we were only able to pick up the outer tire rods, one bellow, and the bushings (MOOG) for the sway bar link (we would have to wait until Monday to order the others, we were told).
On the way home, we talked about also replacing the struts. Then we started wondering if it made sense to purchase the lower control arm with the bushings and ball joint already pressed in. Then it became a discussion of looking at the rear control arms, the rear shocks, and the quad shocks.
All of sudden, this seemed to be a pretty expensive weekend project. So, we agreed to seek advice from you all not only in terms of how to proceed but also in terms of recommendations for suspension parts. This is his daily driver (well, he uses my Monte Carlo when we are working on his Mustang). Not intended for racing (though being 19 years old, I'm sure he's running it harder than he claims). What are decent shocks/struts? Are there suspension kits that we should consider otherwise. We have the original sway bars in front and back; does it make sense to consider replacing these as well. We were told that there were different stock sizes so we weren't able to pick up the frame-sway bar (?) bushings at the time. Does it make sense to replace the quad shocks?
We came across references to bump-steer, but we were quite sure if these were on his car; at least, we didn't see anything other than the sway bark link bushings on the front end. Are these the same? A lot of questions, we know. Any advice you give is much appreciated.
Figured as much. Still a lot to do with car. Fuel gauge doesn’t register; sluggish AOD; jumpy speedometer; A/C overhaul needed; motor and transmission mounts need to be replaced; just ordered the blue oval weatherstripping kit mentioned in another thread; traced a coolant leak; dashboard slapping around inside; not to mention the upholstery.
Saw a post on replacement rack & pinion from Jhricker (?) mentioning 2.5 turns lock to lock. But when I look online, we see 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, etc. turns lock to lock.
Saw another post in suspension saying to stop asking questions until folks checked out the resources available on the forums. Felt guilty, so we searched and couldn’t find answers.
Saw a recent thread that we are following on a guy rebuilding a 93. Maybe we can learn from the advice folks are giving him. Someone on the thread said that he could change the title heading to update where he was in the build. Haven’t figured how to do that.
But, all said, been a blast working alongside my son. Wouldn’t trade it for anything. He drives me crazy, but it’s beautiful that he is willing to hang out and learn from his old man. Truth be told, I’ve learned more from him.
We are even thinking of picking up a 68 Mustang with a 289 V8 from someone going through a divorce. But, that’s down the line...maybe
Back at it with my son. Decided to replace front end bushings and oil pan gasket. Dropped everything, cleaned it up, but for the past three weekends, we have struggled with getting the k-rmember back in. My son asked me to check with folks on the best way to do this.
We have the car on a slope in the driveway. Yes, probably not the best idea, but it's the only place right now to work. He thinks the motor and transmission may have shifted forward.
What's the best way to get this back in? Front bolts or rear bolts first? Driver's side or passenger's? We put the motor mounts on the block first, thinking we could drop the engine into the k-member once it was positioned correctly. But, no such luck yet.
Btw, when we removed and cleaned up the k-member we noticed that it had been welded, probably from a wreck from the previous owner. We see where the passenger side front upper frame was welded.
We can try. We've loosened the transmission bracket and the transmission mount. We put the engine mount on the engine. This bolt seems to be the place where it get hung up. With the engine bar left, how high can we go. What should we disconnect to get it higher?