alternator upgrade worth the money

lxwants12's

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Sep 22, 2004
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i just installed the 3g alternator from pa performance and what a world of difference my car used to surge at idle then die once i switched on my dual electric fans and now i have no problems and the voltmeter in the dash always reads at least 14volts such a help anyone looking for an alternator should get it theres little mod to be done nothing serious and its a new unit with a liftem=ime warrenty!!
 
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yeah i am in the process how ever i got mine from autozone the duralast gold (new lifetime warrenty) anyway do i have to have a fuse between the alt and the starter sol.? if so what size should i get the alt puts out 130amps....
 
i certainly would want some sort of meltdown protection for when the alt shorts out (esp if the wiring was upgraded, which it certainly needs to be). i personally dont see anything wrong with sticking a fuse (say 150 amps) in series in the power wire.

if a system functions properly, it will never know there is a fuse there. but should a problem pop up, it sure is nice to have.
 
lxwants12's said:
i just installed the 3g alternator from pa performance and what a world of difference my car used to surge at idle then die once i switched on my dual electric fans and now i have no problems and the voltmeter in the dash always reads at least 14volts such a help anyone looking for an alternator should get it theres little mod to be done nothing serious and its a new unit with a liftem=ime warrenty!!

Thanks this is what I needed to get me going. I have been debating whether or not to do it. I will be using the new MSD alternator though a little pricey but it looks freaking awesome, anyone see one on a stang?
 
I upgraded my stock alternator to a paperformance 3g alternator (130amp) and did the 4guage wire with the inline fuse linked between the alternator and starter solenoid as the instructions stated...

Been doing just fine on my daily driver every since:nice:
 
I would not install a 130 amp circuit in my house and not put a fuse or circuit breaker in it. That would be asking for a fire for sure, in addition to being a violation of every electrical code ever written.


The stock alternator wiring has a fuse link, so should any high current alternator.

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...tnumber=095-584

Don't forget the extra ground....
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
 
jrichker said:
Don't forget the extra ground....
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Should this ground be upgraded to 4 gauge?


jrichker said:
Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
what is the battery pigtail ?