Electrical Alternator wiring

extra_stout

Advanced Member
Aug 27, 2018
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What has me so puzzled about my charging issue is I've had multiple people say that there should be a wire from the alternator the the battery
Look inside the wiring chart... It is the yellow cable that is elongated with the red on to the right solenoid post. From there the black cable goes to the battery I think. There you have your connection.
Is the black-orange wire connected to the battery?
In stock form they both [yellow (now red) and black orange] run to this plastic post on the inner fender, that is unused at the moment (if I remember correctly).
There are also connections inside the loom from this yellow and black orange cable. So this both cables feed all your electrical consumers.
There should be an additional wire from the alternator to the regulator, to get the "unregulated" electricity to the regulator.
If there is something with your wiring wrong (broken wire) than an alternator upgrade will not solve your problem!
you need at least voltage at the lightgreen-red cable at the regulator from the ignition switch (when ignition is on).
I would check with a multimeter if the wire from alternator to the regulator has a connection
 
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extra_stout

Advanced Member
Aug 27, 2018
428
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The plug with the two wires on your picture should lead to the alternator. You even see the orange-lightblue wire that should lead from alternator to the regulator (check wiring diagramm). You should check everything with a multimeter and additionally make pictures from your alternator wiring and regulator wiring and a bigger picture of the solenoid and the battery wiring.
And while your at it: make picture of the car and post all of it here (this is what we all want to see, even it isn't a trailer queen) ;)
 
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extra_stout

Advanced Member
Aug 27, 2018
428
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Germany
Lucky you. I still have the stock alternator with wiring in the storage:

IMG_20210108_102100.jpg

IMG_20210108_102112.jpg


I marked the two wires at the wiring connector. The orange-lightblue wire goes to the regulator. The other cable (white-blue) is connected to the choke. And the third cable (the thick black one) is originally connected to the post on the inner fender hence to the battery.
Surprisingly this all matches up with the wiring diagram.
Now you should get it running with what you have. If you have a re manufactured or new alternator, I think you can run your e-fuel-pump without problems (should be around 1A). If there is somewhere draw I would eliminate that before thinking of an upgrade.
 
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Ed88

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Aug 21, 2017
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Green/red wire to the regulator gets power with key turned.
9.2v is the orange/blue wire from the alternator to the regulator
12.29v is the black/orange wire while motor running, which was the same as the battery voltage before I started the car.
Battery voltage drops when the lights are turned on and doesn't pick back up as usual. Tomorrow im gonna start pulling fuses and see if anything changes.
 

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extra_stout

Advanced Member
Aug 27, 2018
428
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Germany
My first advice, check for good ground everywhere:
It looks like that the ground (look for GRD in the casting) of the alternator is not used. There should be a wire to the engine block and from the engine block to the chassis. Unscrew the existing engine ground cable (on both sides) and look for good contact (grinding to bare metal).
Also the regulator needs to have good ground. I think, the ground is the connection from the regulator housing to the sheet metal. So it also helps to unscrew the regulator and clean/grind the contact area.
If this doesn't help, I would look at the self made connections (DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST!) of the black-orange wire and the red wire that is connected to the yellow wire because this isn't original.
In my opinion I would cut up the self made connection of the black orange wire and connect both ends to the right post of the solenoid (where the battery and the red wire is connected). This should lead to a better connection to the battery. Original this both ends are connected to the unused post at the inner fender on your car, but original with additional connection to the battery, if i remember correctly. This would be similar to my current setup.

If the alternator ground is missing, this will alone solve your problems very likely.
 
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Ed88

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Aug 21, 2017
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My first advice, check for good ground everywhere:
It looks like that the ground (look for GRD in the casting) of the alternator is not used. There should be a wire to the engine block and from the engine block to the chassis. Unscrew the existing engine ground cable (on both sides) and look for good contact (grinding to bare metal).
Also the regulator needs to have good ground. I think, the ground is the connection from the regulator housing to the sheet metal. So it also helps to unscrew the regulator and clean/grind the contact area.
If this doesn't help, I would look at the self made connections (DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST!) of the black-orange wire and the red wire that is connected to the yellow wire because this isn't original.
In my opinion I would cut up the self made connection of the black orange wire and connect both ends to the right post of the solenoid (where the battery and the red wire is connected). This should lead to a better connection to the battery. Original this both ends are connected to the unused post at the inner fender on your car, but original with additional connection to the battery, if i remember correctly. This would be similar to my current setup.

If the alternator ground is missing, this will alone solve your problems very likely.
I checked every ground and they are all good. I added a wire from the ground post on the alternator. That worked so thank you sir. But I turned the lights on and the voltage dropped by from 12.47 to 12.24 then to 12.23 and is slowly going down. So I feel there probably is a short in my lights like I thought. I have more ordered and hopefully it fixes it
 
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extra_stout

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Happy you could make a step forward, but voltage should be higher than 13 V, when the engine is running...
I found this description how to test if it is the regulator or the alternator that is bad:
"Have your meter connected across the battery, disconnect the regulator, start the car and carefully jump terminals F and B+ together BRIEFLY (if you have any fancy electronics in your car, turn them off). If the voltage stays low, the alternator is bad. If the voltage jumps above 15, the regulator is likely the culprit."
Jumping F and B+ should only be done for a short time.
 
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Ed88

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Aug 21, 2017
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Happy you could make a step forward, but voltage should be higher than 13 V, when the engine is running...
I found this description how to test if it is the regulator or the alternator that is bad:
"Have your meter connected across the battery, disconnect the regulator, start the car and carefully jump terminals F and B+ together BRIEFLY (if you have any fancy electronics in your car, turn them off). If the voltage stays low, the alternator is bad. If the voltage jumps above 15, the regulator is likely the culprit."
Jumping F and B+ should only be done for a short time.
I'll give that a shot tomorrow. The regulator, pig tail and alternator are all 3 weeks old I dont think it'd be that but worth trying. Does it matter if the pigtail has more than normal wires? If you look at the picture i posted of it theres 2 yellow and 2 white wires. When I put it in I wasn't sure what to do with the 2 extras.
 

extra_stout

Advanced Member
Aug 27, 2018
428
463
73
Germany
The two extra wires don't need to be connected.
Try it. I have heard storys where the regulator was bad when it was new...