Progress Thread alwayshi 00 GT supercharged build

alwayshi

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Hello everyone,
This is a progress thread for my 2000 sunburst gold GT. I've always dreamt of owning a New Edge from even before I could drive. I missed on an opportunity to purchase a Cobra a few years ago (I didn't research enough and thought the car had clutch problems, not knowing these cars have clutch cables vs hydro hahaha) anyways, that opportunity was long gone and I knew I would never come across another deal for a Cobra like that again..I remained patient and decided a GT build would be just as fun if I could find a clean base. Fast forward to February 2019 and I stumbled upon an 79,000 original miles and immaculate condition GT for a good price. It has majority of the usual bolt-ons already done, so I ended up purchasing it.

The car already had:
- Traction-Lok Posi
- 3.73s
- King Cobra Clutch, Billet flywheel
- Steeda tri-ax shifter
- Bassani X pipes w/ hi-flow cats
- Ford Racing shorty headers
- Steeda Catback
- Cobra front brake conversion
- Steeda upper control arms
- Eibach pro springs
- Ford racing aluminum driveshaft
- MAC CAI
- C&L trueflow intake plenum
- BBK 75mm TB
- Typhoon intake manifold
- ACCEL coil on plugs
- Mach 1 chin spoiler and grille
- Cobra replica rims


IMG_3210.jpg IMG_3211.jpg

I took it to the drag strip to see what she could run as is, and managed a 13.8 @ 100.xx mph in the 1/4 with a crappy 2.2 60' (couldn't catch traction all).

From even before purchasing the car, when I dreamt of a New Edge, I always wanted it to be supercharged. So I decided to begin planning my build for a street/weekend strip car.

First things first was to prep the rear 8.8 to handle more power. Since the clutch was new and the car already had an aluminum driveshaft I decided to beef up the 8.8 with 31 spline moser axles, new posi and keep the 3.73s and rebuild all axle seals and bearings, extended rear studs, and replace the Steeda upper control arms, and also purchase lower control arms (had a package deal on LMR).

IMG_3593.jpg IMG_3635.jpg IMG_3637.jpg

Continued build on post #2
 
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alwayshi

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After building the rear end, I never returned back to the track. I told myself I'll enjoy the car as it is, and use the time to research a lot into supercharging the 2v 4.6.
I used multiple forums, and thru the help of many out there, Sonic02 (I believe that's his username on moddedmustangs) build thread with pictures, and @Dark04GT, I was able to figure out and plan how I really wanted to accomplish my goal; supercharged with a FMIC. I decided to do a FMIC instead of spraying meth because of the simplicity (yes its tight with a FMIC but I don't have to worry about the meth pump, running wires and lines and yada yada yada).

I decided on the Vortech V3 SI charger because of the price. Procharger would've been the ticket, but the price for a tuner kit was just so much more than the Vortech tuner kit, and Kenne Bell was just a tad bit more.

I then prepped as I acquired the tuner kit first (thank you Vortech for awesome service and a great price!), then a gauge cluster pod that I planned to run an AFR gauge and boost gauge. I wanted those two gauges in my face and not on the pillar where I felt would be more difficult to see, rather than glancing down quickly and back onto the road.

The pod and gauges went in, and I also ordered a FMIC, and began working on moving the powersteering cooler lines out of the way, and fabbing its brackets (just so when the time comes for the superchager to go in - I was ready and it was one less thing to do)

9042C258-DB36-487E-983E-B6FFB2CF4516.JPG 0ABAFA33-2536-4854-9FF2-D4C051A1A59C.JPG

The AFR gauge is from Innovate, Boost gauge is from Autometer, and the intercooler is a 31x3 (I believe) from On3 Performance. I decided to stay away from ebay intercoolers, and the On3 was priced very well. I figured the On3 intercooler must also FLOW well due to the fact that many others out there using their turbo kits are producing a lot of power and never complained about the intercooler (mainly fitment of the turbo pieces of that kit).

Months moved on as I read more and more and aquired my fuel needs, MAF, and tuning options.
Other than the Vortech kit, I also purchased a 16" 3" diameter intercooler straight pipe with a tial flange already welded onto it, a Tial 50mm BOV, HPX PMAS MAF, Ford Racing 47 lb injectors, 1 step cooler plugs, Moroso catch can, and Deatschworks 340lph plug and play fuel pump with a replacement fuel tank filler neck grommet. For tuning, HP tuners now supports New Edge mustangs, and a tuner locally for me agreed he would be able to tune the car.

Following, i then installed the fuel pump by myself fairly easy.

16AABF2F-FBF5-434E-8820-9F0CBE81362D.JPG IMG_4928.jpg

The first week of October 2019, I had some time off from life, and started the install of the supercharger.
Continue to Post #3
 

alwayshi

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In one weeks time (I really took my time haha), everything went in, including building my own powerpipe for the intake of the charger. I had a friend of mine also weld a lot of the intercooler piping to minimize the coupler usage. Each coupler utilized 87mm T-bolt bands.

IMG_5287.jpg IMG_5297.jpg IMG_5407.jpg IMG_5414.jpg 74EBABE1-BE55-4AC3-8115-E79585F2BB3C.JPG

Thru all the reading, and posts from many other supercharged builds out there, I was able to retain my bumper support with enough room for the intercooler and zero interference, make the powerpipe, and clock the supercharger with enough room for intercooler piping, and route vacuum lines correctly.

Post #4, will include how I routed my vacuum lines for boost, BOV, and the PCV delete into catchcan/atmosphere, and some of the small problems I came across.

Right now, the car runs, and idles great. I'm still datalogging and will continue to work on the tune as time allows, and hit the dyno when I, and the tuner are ready.
 

alwayshi

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(Reserve post #4 for reasons stated above)

IMG_5371.jpg

For the orange circle, I tied into here for boost gauge. The red circle I left alone and tied it into the charge piping after the MAF, and after the IAT. As for the blue circle, this was a part tied into the PCV system from the passenger side valve cover. I removed "blue", and ran my BOV vacuum line to here as how 02Sonic did in his build.
Tial explains that in order for their BOV to operate correctly, a 6mm ID vacuum hose needs to be used. This "blue" port is slightly larger, but actuates the BOV quickly, and correctly.
As for the PCV system I routed a line from the passenger side behind the engine (firewall side) and T'd it together with the driver side valve cover. It then runs into one side of the catch can. The opposing port of the catch can runs into the fender, witha small cheapo filter attached to it. By doing this as explained by @Dark04GT , the PCV system is now passive, and vents on its own instead of using a vacuum, to help aid and assist. No problem with that, because its the same as those who run just filters on the valve cover.

Now, for the small problem that I came across for this installation. The belt supplied by Vortech is a 108.2". I'm running the stock 3.6 pulley that the charger came with. I found this belt for my application, was a tad too big. I even replaced my tensioner and still had too much slack for my liking. The car ran, but during datalogging and tuning, I would get belt slip occasionally with a blip of the throttle, and REALLYYYY get belt slip with the air conditioning on. I researched online (shoutout to @Sluggie24 ), and even called Vortech and they told me to drop a belt size, so i did.
The belt size that I am now using is an outer diameter of 108 1/8, but a working length of 107.55. I installed this belt and voila, all is well!

The part number for this belt size is Gates brand K06-1075 if anyone is interested. I still feel like it could be a little tighter but the next belt size down would be TOO tight.

One flaw with Vortech's design is that you have to remove the supercharger to change a belt. After a few tries, it becomes second nature lol. I just hope I don't have to do it for a looooong time.

A tip I found on youtube on how to even reach the tensioner (the supercharger blocks it) is to use a 14" pipe wrench, with an old cut tube taped to the jaw. The wrench slips onto the tensioner and it makes life soooo much easier to slip the belt on and off.

IMG_5465.jpg

That's it for now. I'll update as I continue to datalog and tune the car, and definitely update on dyno day (whenever that will be). I'm just really happy to have the car running. I don't know how much lbs of boost I'm running because I stayed out of boost so far while logging. I'm hoping for somewhere near the 400whp mark and I'll be completely stoked. If anyone has any questions, concerns, and if you need better pictures don't hesitate. It was a pain for me to research for everything in one place so I'm trying to initiate this build thread for those who are considering to build a new edge with a vortech supercharger.

Thanks for checking it out and check back for updates!
 
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alwayshi

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Alright guys I need some help,
Finally got to the dyno and I’m not making nearly as much boost as I’d thought...

pressure tested it and had a fat leak at the IAT, so I refitted a new rubber grommet and that got fixed.
I also have two pin hole leaks from the welds that extended the intercooler inlet and outlet. I need to get that rewelded..

3rd leak, at the IAC. How the hell do I fix that? It’s dumping quite a good amount of air..

max boost I was able to achieve was roughly 5lbs...

@Dark04GT any advice?
 

alwayshi

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Update:
Fixed my boost leaks. Still boosting 3lbs.

My tuner called me, and said "hey, didn't you have to drop a belt size to begin with as soon as you bought the charger? you sure your car didn't come with UD pulleys?"
The PO never mentioned UD pulleys, so I measured the crank right off the bat.... 5.25". SOB, there's the problem. I can't find any stock waterpump or alternator pulleys locally, but I did find a stock crank. I'll be swapping that out and leaving the other UD pulleys on for now and see what it does.
 
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alwayshi

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A stock sized crank pulley and sounds like you’ll be in good shape. :cool:

got a stock crank pulley on. It was a PITA lol
But now, my vortech supplied 108”? belt doesn’t fit. It’s like half inch shy and I’m struggling.

Idkk if I should buy a bigger belt and see what the 3.6 pulley boosts at?
Or, wait for my 3.33 pulley to come in and try snug the 108” belt on?

here’s the difference in stock crank pulley and under drive
971687FD-5F18-4CAF-A825-1882ADEFD1AA.jpeg
 

alwayshi

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Update:
Could NOT at all fit the 108” belt without it being stupid tight. I’d probably snap a belt due to the tensioner being maxed out

bought a 109.75” belt and it was very very snug. Started the car and immediately heard the supercharger louder, and moving more air at idle (good sign). Let it warm up and took her out for a spin with my tuner. He added some fuel (so another indicator of moving more air). I got to 6lbs at redline being pig rich (we made it rich just so I can see if the new crank pulley made difference - fine tuning will be done later)

So that’s great! I build boost now! My 3.33 pulley should be here Tuesday and I’ll install it to hopefully hit 10lbs and hit the dyno.
 
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Dark04GT

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Update:
Could NOT at all fit the 108” belt without it being stupid tight. I’d probably snap a belt due to the tensioner being maxed out

bought a 109.75” belt and it was very very snug. Started the car and immediately heard the supercharger louder, and moving more air at idle (good sign). Let it warm up and took her out for a spin with my tuner. He added some fuel (so another indicator of moving more air). I got to 6lbs at redline being pig rich (we made it rich just so I can see if the new crank pulley made difference - fine tuning will be done later)

So that’s great! I build boost now! My 3.33 pulley should be here Tuesday and I’ll install it to hopefully hit 10lbs and hit the dyno.

Nice! Looking forward to some good numbers on your dyno pull!
 
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alwayshi

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Installed the 3.33 pulley and hit the dyno tonight.

The good news is, I hit 11 lbs of boost even with the IC so I'm happy there. The semi-good news is that I only made 350 whp and 339 ft lbs of torque on the dyno jet. I really wish I could've made a little more, but it is what it is. I'm still a bit rich on the top end but I'm at 17 degrees for timing. I'm just happy the car is done and makes power overall.

Dyno Sheet.png
 

Dark04GT

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Don’t spend too much time comparing dyno graphs against others. Your tune is probably on Hawaii premium (92 octane), all dynos are slightly different (+/- couple %), and different people have different levels of timing.

I bet the car “butt dyno” feels good and the car sounds great. You have a nice flat torque curve. Go see what it does at the track- that’s what matters. :nice:
 

alwayshi

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Don’t spend too much time comparing dyno graphs against others. Your tune is probably on Hawaii premium (92 octane), all dynos are slightly different (+/- couple %), and different people have different levels of timing.

I bet the car “butt dyno” feels good and the car sounds great. You have a nice flat torque curve. Go see what it does at the track- that’s what matters. :nice:

you’re right bro - tuned on 92 octane.
thanks for the uplifting words lol. Car does feel good on the “butt dyno” but I was expecting a “ripper” haha. maybe do cams in the future and shoot for a bit more power but definitely satisfied for now.

Keep you guys posted on what’s next!
 

Dark04GT

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Glad it feels good. :nice:

As an example kenne bell dynos their kits with 23 degrees of timing and their air fuel ratio at 11:1. Each increased degree of timing is ~4hp, each increase of 1 on the air fuel ratio is ~8hp (Not advertising to do this, just showing that hp numbers vary greatly depending on the mix of A/F and timing). More octane supports more timing (1 octane supports ~2 more degrees of timing) so your tune (17 degrees) is a great street tune for 92 octane. More aggressive tuning could get you ~20-30 rwhp....but is that smidge more worth the increased knock / detonation risk. A happy butt dyno is more important then being overly aggressive to get every last horse IMO. :cool:

Not everything in the write up is gospel but it is a good read (bottom of page 7 / top of page 8 and the dyno charts on page 11 are interesting): http://kennebell.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/TechTips4.6-2.pdf
 
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alwayshi

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Glad it feels good. :nice:

As an example kenne bell dynos their kits with 23 degrees of timing and their air fuel ratio at 11:1. Each increased degree of timing is ~4hp, each increase of 1 on the air fuel ratio is ~8hp (Not advertising to do this, just showing that hp numbers vary greatly depending on the mix of A/F and timing). More octane supports more timing (1 octane supports ~2 more degrees of timing) so your tune (17 degrees) is a great street tune for 92 octane. More aggressive tuning could get you ~20-30 rwhp....but is that smidge more worth the increased knock / detonation risk. A happy butt dyno is more important then being overly aggressive to get every last horse IMO. :cool:

Not everything in the write up is gospel but it is a good read (bottom of page 7 / top of page 8 and the dyno charts on page 11 are interesting): http://kennebell.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/TechTips4.6-2.pdf

That is great words and advice! Thanks for the share. I’m amazed how you just thought of that article off the bat haha. Definitely feel a bit better about it all now. Thanks bro!
 

alwayshi

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So the car’s been running great, and I purchased some torque box reinforcements.
Been contemplating doing some cams tho, itching for more power lol.
Any recommendations? Maybe Todd NA SVT custom ground cams?
@Dark04GT
 

Nightfire

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You've got more issues to work out before moving on. 350rwhp is INSANELY low for that amount of boost. Whats your AFR? You want to be in the 12's. You want to reconsider the intake. Typhoons are almost as bad as dorman intakes. I would suggest selling the typhoon in favor of an FRPP PI intake. Back when I was a 2V car, I mad 420/418 on 8psi in hot Texas heat (D1SC at the time). I had stock heads/cams/intake but a full exhaust. To me, it sounds like your tune isn't very good. Id be curious to see what the fuel maps look like. You're most likely bogging down the motor.

And yes, Todd Warren cams are the only way to go.
 

alwayshi

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You've got more issues to work out before moving on. 350rwhp is INSANELY low for that amount of boost. Whats your AFR? You want to be in the 12's. You want to reconsider the intake. Typhoons are almost as bad as dorman intakes. I would suggest selling the typhoon in favor of an FRPP PI intake. Back when I was a 2V car, I mad 420/418 on 8psi in hot Texas heat (D1SC at the time). I had stock heads/cams/intake but a full exhaust. To me, it sounds like your tune isn't very good. Id be curious to see what the fuel maps look like. You're most likely bogging down the motor.

And yes, Todd Warren cams are the only way to go.

i figures there’s something wrong with the setup, but when I talked to Todd he said it’s my cams holding me back. I’ll look into a new manifold tho. I know I’m low on power and honestly I was pretty bummed about it. Full throttle my AFR’s are 10.5 ish, I think. I haven’t gone full throttle in a while lol.
I know for a fact my part throttle while cruising needs to lean out more and I need to talk to my tuner. I’m sitting at 11-12’s when cruising at times

I also know, full throttle shoots massive carbon soot and unburned fuel out so yes I know I’m pig rich, but maybe address that first then the intake? Maybe hold off on the cams for now?

I appreciate your insight! No one builds 2v’s or mustangs in general here so it’s a true learning experience
 

Nightfire

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Holy :poo: 10.5 is going to tank your power. Ive been there. Your cams arent holding you back, its your setup/tune. Idle and cruisin AFR doesnt mean :poo:. You need to be concerned about WOT AFR. Shooting out black smoke means you're burning more fuel than needed. Yo should be around 15:1 or so while cruising.

Todd is a master but he needs 100% of whats going on. You are WAAAAY too rich. Honestly thats what is killing you.....and dark04 is my protege