Another Clutch recommendation

[HeMiBoB]

I have done lots of research and looked around. The clutch in my current car is slipping, and needs replaced. I dont know what pressure plate the car has in it but man, it stiff. Way to stiff for a daily driver, and Im a big strong guy LOL.
Anyways, the car has a common bolt on mods, tuner, 4.10 gears bla bla bla.
This is going to be my daily driver now, but want a good clutch, no chatter, will have the flywheel surfaced etc.
I want a clutch that will handle the abuse I can dish out, not wear out and slip in 5K miles.
Looked at a King Cobra, a Ramm HDX. I dont think I need a CF duel friction deal just yet. Have other race cars, and this will be my driver..

Who has the best deals, and what do you guys recommend?
Thanks
Bob C

 

[trombonedemon]

In my honest opinion, go ahead and get a new stock flywheel, because you don't want to have the transmission down a second time. Stay away from aluminum flywheel, your clutch disk will thank you.
Oh, go get another stock throw-out bearing, my after-market T.O.B. is chirping like so many people's aftermarket T.O.B. on this forum. My clutch and transmission is still under warranty, gonna have them swap it out when a second car is available.
I'm sure other's opinion will vary, later.
Demon.

 

[HeMiBoB]

OK
Just got ahold of the previous owner, it has a spec steel flywheel, and a spec +2 clutch kit...
I hate the pedal effort on this thing. Way to stiff for a driver, the previous owner raced it and wasnt his main driver so it might be OK in that situation.
I need a good clutch with less pedal effort please.
I dont see why a flywheel needs replaced. Are they made that crappy? Im still driving this car, the current clutch isnt smoked, doesnt even chatter, just starting to slip some. Low rpm kick in high and it starts to slip.
I admit Im new to these cars, and how clutch adjustment works. so...
But I need to mention the pedal is all the way out before the clutch starts tp grab, not sure if this is correct. The previous owner said he tried to adjust it recently, and it indeed needs a clutch. Been in there for several years, and has had some abuse I imagine.
Thanks
Bob

 

[trombonedemon]

OK
Just got ahold of the previous owner, it has a spec steel flywheel, and a spec +2 clutch kit...
I hate the pedal effort on this thing. Way to stiff for a driver, the previous owner raced it and wasnt his main driver so it might be OK in that situation.
I need a good clutch with less pedal effort please.
I dont see why a flywheel needs replaced. Are they made that crappy? Im still driving this car, the current clutch isnt smoked, doesnt even chatter, just starting to slip some. Low rpm kick in high and it starts to slip.
I admit Im new to these cars, and how clutch adjustment works. so...
But I need to mention the pedal is all the way out before the clutch starts tp grab, not sure if this is correct. The previous owner said he tried to adjust it recently, and it indeed needs a clutch. Been in there for several years, and has had some abuse I imagine.
Thanks
Bob

You can still use the same flywheel, but peace of mine is my issue, even if the flywheel is resurfaced, the flywheel can still develop high and low spots soon there after depending on how rough the previous owner was, you said he raced it, there's my answer.
Just go with stock from Ford if your really afraid of chatter, me personally went with one that held 500 plus horsepower, a pretty thick disk. That sucker grabs. But is unforgiving when ill-applied to the flywheel.
Go with stock, unless you desire an aftermarket pressure plate and disk.
Our clutches are self-adjusting.
You are going to have chatter with most clutches even stock, just from my experience, just less dramatic chatter the thinner the disk is.

 

[007]

I did my research for a long time and ended up getting the RAM HDX clutch. Havent got it installed yet.

 

[trinity_gt]

For a bolt-on car I'd go OE. I don't see in your post what year your car is but 02+ cars with TR3650s came with very capable 11" clutches which is the same size as that used in the Terminator Cobras. It can hold a good deal of torque. I've still got an OE-level (Luk stock replacement; replaced long before the blower while the trans was out due to a bad/noisy release bearing...) and it's fine behind my KB blown 4.6. I still have the stock 245 tires and 3.73s so traction is limited but even when they hook, I don't see any slippage.

If you have an earlier car you'll have a 10.5" clutch and might want to think about upgrading to an 11" setup while it's apart.

If the clutch has been slipping badly and/or was abused in a previous life you should look very carefully at the flywheel as the friction surface may be heat-damaged or even cracked. If you see extensive "blueing" -- evidence of excess heat -- I'd replace the flywheel and not just resurface it. Ditto if you see any cracks or checks.

With either choice -- resurface the stock flywheel or replacement -- make sure the dowels are properly (re)installed to ensure the clutch cover is properly aligned. Without the dowels the assembly is sure to be out of balance and/or may chatter excessively.

 

[HeMiBoB]

After doing some checking, I need to know it wasnt a cable issue or adjustment problem. There is plenty of slack and free travel in the cable and clutch fork/arm. I stopped in Advance Auto and priced a clutch.
I think I will just go with a Zoom kit 3000 series. Its priced well and there stuff is popular. Part # 30048..
If anyone thinks this isnt a good clutch please let me know.

 

[usaf_branham]

I havent heard anything about zoom... but i can tell you from my application, I have a RAM POWERGRIP clutch, and it seems to be good. My only complaint is that it does have some very minor chatter on take off. Im still breaking it in though, i have only put about 700 miles on it since the clutch change. Pedal effort is good, a little stiffer than stock, but not by much. I had the stock flywheel resurfaced, and put an adjustable clutch kit in the car, but kept the stock clutch cable.

 

[trombonedemon]

After doing some checking, I need to know it wasnt a cable issue or adjustment problem. There is plenty of slack and free travel in the cable and clutch fork/arm. I stopped in Advance Auto and priced a clutch.
I think I will just go with a Zoom kit 3000 series. Its priced well and there stuff is popular. Part # 30048..
If anyone thinks this isnt a good clutch please let me know.

Yup Zoom, made here in North Carolina. Don't use there Throw-Out bearing, find a stock one. The price of Zoom clutches surprised me as well.