Another engine ID.

Discussion in 'Fox Engine Swaparoo' started by 3ponyshow, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. I've been doing the research and looked at every thread I can find, but still don't have the info I need.
    Above the starter on my block is stamped:
    From what I've been able to find, that indicates my block is from the 80's and it's a truck engine built by Ford, but still doesn't indicate the year as far as I can tell. All other threads I've read seem to indicate a date stamped that my block doesn't have. Any ideas on how I can find the year?

  2. It's not ETTE, it's E7TE...the second digit for the first four of Ford part numbers up to '99 model year is the year, first digit is the decade where E=80''s an '87 design casting block...which lasted at least until '91 when the next redesign happened...the year the block was cast should be somewhere near the casting number if memory recalls...

    Why is the year model casting important to you? Everything north of '86 was a roller block and they're all pretty much equal...none of them are any stronger than the rest, and to my knowledge, the metallurgy is all the same. If there are any real differences, they're pretty minute.
  3. I just want to make sure I'm ordering the right parts during the rebuild. In regards to the front/rear main seals, timing chain cover & gaskets, there's a difference in the part numbers. The other threads I've read stated that the second digit is definitely an E and not a 7, hence my confusion. In checking my block yet again, it appears to most certainly be an E.
  4. Picture please...the second digit of the part number prefix indicates year, numerically...if you have an "E", then either you have a freak mis-cast, or you're not looking at the part number.

    All blocks '82+ were one piece rear main seal, '85+ roller blocks. Timing cover seals from 62-95 will all interchange...the difference in part numbers will be due to water pump and harmonic balancer differences throughout the years and applications...but the gasket for the timing cover to the block will still fit-I've had to use "wrong year" gaskets a few times due to parts for "specific" years not being immediately available. The only tangible difference I ever saw was a part of the gasket wasn't trimmed on the left side of the block above the water passage...I've used both, no difference or detrimental effects presented themselves. From '82-'93 the waters pumps were the same...they had a backing plate behind the water pump which also required a gasket. Front and rear oil pan seals will be the same unless you buy a one piece, which from '87-'95 they were one piece from the factory and they're nice to have. I'd recommend getting one since they have crush prevention bushings in the pain rail gaskets.

    However, to keep things simple, if you're building a fox body compatible Mustang and want to make it easy on yourself-just pick a year from '87-'93 and use won't go wrong.
  5. Here's a good picture of what the part number looks like-the number below is the casting date. If memory serves, the casting number is read like this:

    casting number D4AE, etc: '74, generic application, engine part, 6015=engine block, 351, design change AA

    casting date code
    first digit:
    year; e.g. 6=1976

    second digit:
    month; K=Nov

    third and forth:
    calender day=22nd

    Attached Files:

  6. My apologies, I misspoke. The second letter was a T, not an E. However, if I understand what you've stated and read the link you supplied accurately, the second digit would most likely be a 7, not a T. This would make the code E7TE='87 Truck Ford Engine.

    Thank you for all the insight you've provided. I feel a lot more confident about the what I have to order. BTW, this is in a '68 Mustang I picked up which I was told was a 289 with 302 heads. It wasn't until I took the crank in to be turned that the machine shop told me I had an 80's 302. Hence the inquiry.
  7. Gotcha-good choice though-classics are sweet! Well, FWIW, if you're using stock '68 front dress, you can stick with correct year model stuff-the blocks aren't so different when it comes to that. The differences are more in the architecture of the mains, rear main seal, and steam holes in the deck (which do need to be matched if you take a new block and put on old heads or vice versa). But-if your car had a Z-bar for the clutch, you won't have a place to put it on the newer block. I think that disappeared around 1970...

    The good part is, if you're using basically a transplanted late model 302, you can stick with the roller cam hardware and keep your factory timing cover/front dress. Are you planning on sticking with a mechanical fuel pump and carb or retrofitting EFI?

    ...and I'm beginning to think maybe this thread needs to be in the classic section...?
  8. Right. The reason I posted it here was because I felt needing 5.0 engine tech, I had a better chance of getting accurate information here than in the classics. I will be sticking with the mech fuel pump and carb since I've already replaced the pump and rebuilt the carb.
  9. Gotcha, well, good luck with your build!
    3ponyshow likes this.