Another Explorer Intake Question

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
So I had previously asked you guys about this intake setup I got out of a mountaineer. I’ve searched out everything I could find about installing em. My main questions are, with the lower intake. Can I slap this thing with and use all my stock sensors that attach to it? What injectors will I need to use? Do I need to use the fuel rails off the mountaineer? Do I need to do anything with the computer? It doesn’t look like I’ll have to drill and tap anything on the lower. My car is a 88GT, speed density. I’ll attach picture of both the lower and upper intake so you guys can see what I’ve got. I think I’ve just confused myself with everything I’ve read and the differences with these intakes. I’m pretty sure I’ve got the one that will work with these cars the best. It does have the internal egr. I don’t have the heads yet, the mountaineer looked pretty rough and didn’t have the time to pull those off that day, and I won’t install it until I have a set of heads. If I don’t use heads off a explorer/mountaineer which ones do you guys suggest? Thanks for the info guys. Here are the pictures of what I got.
 

Attachments

  • Sponsors(?)


90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,302
4,352
203
42
The fuel rails are useless to you...the mustang ones will bolt up. The sensors swap over.

Same injectors as before.

Explorer and mountaineer are the same.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,061
9,207
224
Massachusetts
It's a -BA lower, which is the preferred Intake to use. It's the same lower used in the kit Cobra and gt40 intake.

Only difference is on the explorer, the ACT boss and the the two rear coolant taps are not drilled and tapped.

You can either relocate the act sensor to airbox and extend wiring, or drill/tap the #5 runner. You can see the cast boss for it.

After that...easily installed. Use your original fuel rail
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
So I will need to drill and tap the stuff for the cooland lines? Theres a sensor by the #5 runner, is that not for the act sensor? You can see in my picture that there is a sensor there. Or is that the coolant temp sensor? Where is the act sensor on a stock intake located?
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,061
9,207
224
Massachusetts
I stand corrected, you DO need at least one of the rear coolant ports drilled and tapped....passenger side.

The sensor already in the intake is the temp Guage sensor fit the stock guages in the dash.

The act is tapped into the boss next to it.

3/8" npt for everything

Look at your stock intake for reference. Same locations
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
Damn, I was hoping that it would just bolt on, in a perfect world right?? Thanks for the picture though. Makes it pretty clear. Have you ever drilled and tapped those before? Makes me nervous drilling and tapping in aluminum.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
Thanks for clarifying that for me. Don't laugh but what does NPT stand for? I know what your getting at though.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
I don't know what I'm nervous about, I had to clean up a cylinder head on one of the dumb 4.6 liters because the spark plug blew out of my sons car.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,302
4,352
203
42
A lot of people extend the wiring for the ACT and put it in the box for the air filter or install it in the cold air intake tube. While idling people say its a better source for the sensor.

The coolant return, at the back of the passenger side, is for the little coolant return hose that comes off the back side of the EGR spacer, between the throttle body and and the intake.

The right way, of coarse, is to drill and tap the bosses. Make sure the tap is for 3/8 pipe thread. It should be tapered. A straight tap won't work.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
Thanks man. Drill and tap all the the way through? I definitely want to do it the right way.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,061
9,207
224
Massachusetts
Drill all the way through, but it's a tapered thread so you won't be tapping through

For 3/8 npt, you want to use a 9/16 drill bit with a taper pipe reamer or a 37/64 without pipe reamer

Then you tap with the 3/8 npt bit. Use lube and go slow
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
2,006
1,127
163
Thanks Mustang5L5. I appreciate the info you've given me. I've been reading your thread, bad ass car, I wish I would have held on to my first mustang. I'm on my fourth one. Had to sell the other 3 due to different circumstances, but I'm keeping my GT.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mustang5L5

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
27,396
2,845
234
74
Dublin GA
lowendmac.com
Your answer may be in here...

Explorer intake swap; you may not have an Explorer intake, but most of the steps are the same. Skip down to All other types of intake manifolds and you find lots of helpful information on what to do to make the job a success.

Explorer specific items
I got mine off a 96 Mountaineer with the 19# injectors and 65 MM throttle body for $250.

The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".

592185.jpg


592186.jpg


Use the TPS and IAB from your old throttle body. All the EGR passages were there and fit OK. Use you old fuel rails and regulator. You will probably need a new EGR spacer adapter and gaskets. Without the EGR spacer, there is no place to mount the throttle linkage support bracket.

I used the stock water lines on the Explorer manifold and they connected up to the EGR without any problems. I made a “U” out of ½” copper pipe and sweat soldered it together. Then I used it and some hose with clamps to bypass the leaky heater.

The vacuum lines you need are 1 small line for fuel pressure regulator, 1 small line for A/C,1 small line for EGR and another small line for the smog pump. One big line at the back goes to the vacuum tree for the power brake & A/C, one big line goes to the PVC valve. The other big line goes out the front for the carbon canister. In a pinch, one of the small lines can connect to the spare port on the vacuum tree. Cap or plug the remaining lines since they aren't needed.

The stock Explorer linkage didn't come anywhere near fitting, so I made an adapter plate for the throttle linkage so I could use the 65 MM throttle body.

This is what I did:
Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Remove the ball stud off the explorer TB to make way for the adapter plate. Drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the linkage parallel to the TB shaft. Make an angle bracket out of 1" angle iron 3/8", drill a 3/16” hole in the center of each one of the legs. Then bolt it on where the hole was drilled & tapped. Then make a circular adapter plate out of 1/4" thick aluminum to bolt the two linkage arms together. Then bolt the aluminum plate to the existing linkage, and the angle bracket. Next mount the arm with the ball stud off the old throttle body on the adapter plate using the drawing to get the angle correct. You will need an aircraft type countersink for one of the bolts that secures the plate to the explorer linkage arm. It ends up being under the arm with the ball stud for the linkage. It works great and looks neat.

The Explorer TB could have been real simple if I had a gas welding torch or taken the TB to a welding shop. Just grind the mushroomed part of the TB shafts so that you can pry the linkage arms off. Then swap the stock arm onto the Explorer TB and braze it onto the shaft. It Takes about 3 minutes or less worth of work with the torch, so it shouldn't cost much.

I didn't have access to a welder, so I fabricated the plate in my shop. I took about 1.5 hours to do it, it was a measure, cut, and fit type of operation.

Also see http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ConvertingExplorer65mmTB.pdf for modifications to adapt the 65 MM Explorer TB to a Mustang


All other types of intake manifolds
Vacuum line connections:
One large vacuum line from the upper front goes to the carbon canister

One large vacuum line from the rear goes to the vacuum tree.

One small line in the front feeds the Smog pump solenoid control valves on the rear of the passenger side wheel well..

One small line in the rear goes to the fuel pressure regulator.

One small line in the rear goes to the EGR suction regulator.

One large line in the rear goes to the PVC valve.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Typical Vacuum Routing for a Fox stang 5.0:
mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence for a 5.0 Fox stang:


Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Here's some tips...

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put some cardboard in the lifter valley to help catch the gasket scrapings. Have a shop vacuum handy to suck up the scrapings and any coolant that leaked into the lifter valley.
Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Be sure to put a rag or cap in the block where you removed the distributor. It will save you trouble if something falls into the empty distributor hole.


My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. TADA! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber. Heat the pintle caps in boiling water to soften them to make them easier to install.

Plan on doing an oil change within 2 hours of run time on the engine. This will get the debris and coolant out of the oil pan.

Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

What can happen if you don’t use the stay in place gasket…

Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. Spay everything with anything you have, and you won't find the leak...


Want to wear yourself out with info on the Explorer intake manifolds? See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...d-gt-40-intake-thread-56k-dont-bother.551505/
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
Justin87 Engine Yet another explorer intake valve cover question Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
JJ95GTID Another Explorer Intake on a 95GT 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 2
C Another Explorer Head Question Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 0
351crownvic Another 4.6 valve seal 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
S Another Idle surge post with microsquirt Digital Self-tuning Forum 5
Andresquintana.mma Engine Another bad distributor? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 39
S Another addition to the fleet The Welcome Wagon 5
MrFoxNutCase Progress Thread Another notchback... 88 OE project 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 7
R Progress Thread Just another 93 convertible project 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 18
Anti_Hero0932 Another pony in the stable 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 15
T Please help, a noob needs help with another exhaust question! 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- 5
D Another Newbie here! The Welcome Wagon 8
LILCBRA Another stumbled upon article 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech 15
A Yet Another Cracked Aqua Dashpad Owner Searching For a Solution 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 0
M Another newbie. The Welcome Wagon 5
C Another newbie. , again. The Welcome Wagon 10
horse sence You guessed it ,another 67 FB. Conversion Classic Mustang Specific Tech 105
silverlx50 Engine Can yall help me add another 100HP? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 19
G Another NSG thread 93/AOD with a C4 NSS Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 0
S Electrical Oh no not another 88’ turn signal thread! Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 6
evintho Brakes Another dumb 5-lug swap question. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 1
joetrainer31 Progress Thread Got Another One! Pics Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 90
B Engine Another Poor Idle/Running Rich Thread Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 8
twogts4us Drivetrain Is it another bad throw out bearing? SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech 0
G Engine Another 393 stroker thread Classic Mustang Specific Tech 0
ChillPhatCat Progress Thread Haven't posted in a looong time... rescuing another 'stang... '89 Vert 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 20
J I want another fox 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 8
L Another rubbing thread - 88 GT Vert lowered with 235/55 x17s 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 14
GaryM Another Newbie The Welcome Wagon 1
killer5.0 Need to move my car to another shop mid mini-tub process....how to transport 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 14
MustangHunter5.0 Hello, another mustang owner here.. The Welcome Wagon 2
T Another newbie The Welcome Wagon 2
D Another newbie to Stangnet in Corona, CA - '88 The Welcome Wagon 7
9 SN95 Another 5.Slow from Alberta, Canada 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 11
Icemanxxxv Not Another New Guy? The Welcome Wagon 1
B '03 GT Another Intake Leak, Time for KB 2.1? 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 15
F another exhaust question 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 10
F another exhaust question The Welcome Wagon 1
H Another windstar swap. 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 0
Woody3882 Another Newbie The Welcome Wagon 1
C Another Newbie The Welcome Wagon 2
A Another one Bites the Dust. RIP Project Eleanor:( 2015+ (S550) Mustang -General/Talk 7
A Fox Another Fox Leaning.. 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 5
D Another new guy... (and seeking advice) 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 15
horse sence Build Thread Another 68 coupe to fast back conversion Classic Mustang Specific Tech 84
Reddevil91 Ok I’m back with another possible, this time Injectors! 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 8
Reddevil91 BBK LTs Another possible buy! Yes or no deal wise? 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 11
TGAFire87 Yes Another Wheel And Tire Question. 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 3
J Another Gt Newbie, Hello From Florida The Welcome Wagon 3
SoCal91LX Another Mustang Guy, Or Am I? The Welcome Wagon 2
Similar threads