Any reviews on tubular k members?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by MikeH686, Mar 10, 2012.

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  1. Im going to pull the trigger on a new tubular k member and im looking on website and i had found one that i would like to purchase but i just have a question about the spring rate, my car came with lowering springs when i bought it, so how can i figure out what spring rate i need, the options are 130, 150, 175, 250, 350 and some have 12-250 and some are 14-130 so i can only figure that the 12 or 14 is the spring length, can somebody help me with what they have purchased and how they like it and what brands to stay away from, thanks guys
  2. If you don't mind throwning down the cash on an MM k-member, they are WELL worth the coin. Works of art, in my opinion.
  3. I have a QA1 with their tubular arms, I run skinnys so it's ok with me but the moving the wheels 1" forward is pretty stupid. I run 12" 130 springs in front. track only car

    I use to use 175 14" for the street. Have had lots of UPR stuff on car, never had a problem, just my opinion.
  4. Many here have had great success with the above mentioned K-members. Your best bet to find out which spring rates you should be going with would be to get it directly from the horse’s mouth. These guys build these K-members, so they would be the ones who would know best what springs to run with them.
  5. Sharad can help you pick a spring rate if you are going to run the UPR setup. I have it on my car with 14-175 springs. No problems and looks great.
  6. I have the QA1 K-Member and I feel it's thin compared to some others. The TeamZ k-member is gorgeous. Must be used with their A Arms. The QA1 you can use the stock A Arms with some grinding is why I chose it. It's good you're looking around before buying. There now a few to choose from.
  7. Are there any well suited to road race application besides MM or Kenny Brown? I believe most of the others are lightweight and intended for drag use, correct? I'm looking myself.
  8. Im just trying to figure out what spring rate im going with I may even go with a granatelli but again Idk what spring rate to where im not higher in the front compare to the rear
  9. I'm pretty sure spring rate has to do with stiffness of the spring and not so much ride height.

    I don't remember exactly how it's figured, but the larger the number (175-350) the more pounds of force over the weight of the car required to compress the spring an inch. This gives you a softer or firmer ride.

    EDIT: typically you'd use a lighter rate for drag racing to allow weight transfer to the rear for traction, road racing and cornering use heavier rates.
  10. Kinda depends on what you are doing with the car... I have a qa1 sitting under my work bench for my car. The coupe is running an AJE but I really like the design of the 3 piece trz
  11. I have UPR coilover kit with tubular problems with it. My car is lowered and set up for street use and handling. Had C-springs on it before coilovers, wanted something similar. I went with the 300 lb spring rate. They are a little on the harsher side, but not too bad. You do get more noise out of them because you have no rubber isolators anymore. I believe I have the 12" spring as well. With the adjustability, there is really no problem with height. You can always call UPR and get a recommendation from them. After I finish my 5 lug disc conversion, I will be swapping over to a street/strip setup. I will be calling them for spring rate recommendation when the time comes.
  12. Im trying to go for street with moderate strip use so I may go with the 17556 spring rate and yes what sseater said its how much weight it takes to to compress the spring an inch
  13. Seriously Gearbanger? You're going to edit my post and send me a nastygram for suggesting that the guy do his research on UPR before he plunks down his hard-earned cash?
  14. I've done my research the only thing I haven't done is call them about spring rates
  15. I saw it, it said nothing derogatory other then saying that if someone disagrees with UPR it gets deleted and that he should do his research before ordering any k-member. Not sure why that would get deleted but seems he was correct. :shrug:
  16. Alleged "Bad" comments about a company are removed yet the "Good" comments are allowed to remain. I never got a change to see the removed comments, but seems a little one sided to me.
  17. +1
  18. Positive and negative experiences with a company or their products are going to happen. You can’t please everybody and that’s just business. And if comments made are based on someone’s specific experience with a particular item in question, or they would recommend an alternative, or quite frankly are merely directing a member to do their research before buying.....I probably would have let it go. The continuous trashing of a company anytime their name is mentioned to satisfy your personal vendetta against them because you don’t like the way they choose to conduct business on the other hand is not acceptable.

    If you’ve got any relevant and/or personal experience with the product in question, or technical advice regarding spring rates like the OP asked, then by all means feel free to give your input on the matter. Entering the thread for no other reason that to jump up onto a soap box and blatantly slam a company every time someone mentions their name because you’ve got a personal bone to pick with them isn’t going to happen. Especially in light of recent thread closures.

    Any further derogatory or defaming remarks or attempts to steer the thread in such a direction will result in thread closure and disciplinary action if deemed necessary!
    Sharad, hoopty5.0 and srtthis like this.
  19. Very well put... From some one who works for a vendor on a bunch of sites. It gets old having people who've never delt with a company jump on things like this
    Sharad likes this.
  20. -_- Woah I have nothing to say but I really need a k member lol
    88LX5.Oh likes this.
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