anybody have trouble with their electric choke sticking?
- Thread starter steel1212
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
fasttback
New Member
What carb are you running? My Demon just started doing the same thing - pop the hood, flick the fast idle cam and things are back to normal. May try lubricating the cam and check for binding?
I am having the exact same problem with my Edelbrock 600. I did the carb cleaner/WD40 thing but it didn't help. Binding doesn't seem to be the issue. I can see that the electric choke simply isn't rotating enough (or at all) to disengage the fast idle cam.
Do I have to replace the electric choke???
Do I have to replace the electric choke???
Cannoball888
New Member
View attachment 485138
I pity da fool who use an electric choke. Nuttin' but jibba-jabba. Use a manual like a real man.
I pity da fool who use an electric choke. Nuttin' but jibba-jabba. Use a manual like a real man.
DukeGnarley
Member
Im having problems with my Electric Choke Period! I have a new Holley
Avenger 570 and it starts and shuts down right away. It will start again
but then I have to keep hitting the gas to keep it running. Ive checked
the wire and there is 12 volts there. Ive adjusted it richer and also adjusted
the fast Idle higher. Once its warm it runs great. It also pops out the
Carb when its cold also. Do you have any of these problems. I thought
when I went to a Electric choke I would have to pump a couple of times
and it run until I it the pedal again to drop the fast Idle. My last carb was
a Carter with a Manual Choke and that didn't work very well either so I
really have nothing to compare to.
Thanks for the Info
Avenger 570 and it starts and shuts down right away. It will start again
but then I have to keep hitting the gas to keep it running. Ive checked
the wire and there is 12 volts there. Ive adjusted it richer and also adjusted
the fast Idle higher. Once its warm it runs great. It also pops out the
Carb when its cold also. Do you have any of these problems. I thought
when I went to a Electric choke I would have to pump a couple of times
and it run until I it the pedal again to drop the fast Idle. My last carb was
a Carter with a Manual Choke and that didn't work very well either so I
really have nothing to compare to.
Thanks for the Info
Cannoball888 said:
How many people that have manual chokes actually use them? I mean I'm not sticking a knob in my car just to pull on it when I can just ride the throttle for a little while until it gets going....if I didn't have the electric. If I get rid of the electric I'll put the 650 dp on it and remove the choke tower completely.
pabear89
Active Member
68keyblr said:
maybe start checking from the beginning of the system?12v at the choke wire key on. yes/no
Is it properly grounded?
( using alum intake may require an additional ground to block wire)
Chokecoil ohm test ohm meter pos to ground, resistence? yes/no
no. bad coil element.
yes. Check connection of Chokecoil to linkage.
loosen ret ring on chokecoil, pull throttle half open turn coil clockwise.
is linkage freely moving the chokeplate. yes/no
No. repair and connect.
yes. set choke to closed setting,release throttle, tighten ret ring.
test starting.
eng rev's to high/low,sticks.
check and adjust fast idle cam for free movement.
For high fast idle and slight sticking unscrew fastidle screw.
Quick ref, while choke in open position and throttle on stop screw.
pull throttle back setting choke.
check the gap on the throttle stop screw.
no gap tighten fast idle screw.
gap too wide loosen fast idle screw.
Cost?
I'll Bill ya.PB
thehueypilot
Active Member
Now you know why they went to fuel injection.....I had the same issue and found the red plastic cam was missing the weight in the end of the arm which helps it to drop off to the next step on the cam. If it has the weight but does not drop freely you might want to take it apart and sand it a little free it up more. Plastic parts sometimes still have flashing still attached which needs trimmed off. If you use any lube on it it will attract dirt and stick again. It must be clean and operate smoothly.
gtss
Member
Quite frankly I can't beleive all you having problems with chokes and you live in the southern states. I'm in Canada, we currently have a foot of fresh snow( no I'm not driving the 65) but i don't have a choke.
however most of the issues you have described sound like adjustment issues. the choke thermostatic coil should be set tight enough to close the choke plate when the engine is cold. if the car start then stalls almost immediately it is usually the vacuum pull off that is out of adjustment or not working. as soon as vacuum is created( engine running) the choke plate should open up slightly. it needs air to keep running if you cosult your appropriate carb manual it will tell you how much it should open. or you can try trial and error, usually the plate should pull open around 1/8" or so. some are adjustable at the vacuum pot via a screw, some require minor bending of the linkage
G
however most of the issues you have described sound like adjustment issues. the choke thermostatic coil should be set tight enough to close the choke plate when the engine is cold. if the car start then stalls almost immediately it is usually the vacuum pull off that is out of adjustment or not working. as soon as vacuum is created( engine running) the choke plate should open up slightly. it needs air to keep running if you cosult your appropriate carb manual it will tell you how much it should open. or you can try trial and error, usually the plate should pull open around 1/8" or so. some are adjustable at the vacuum pot via a screw, some require minor bending of the linkage
G
manual choke
Manual choke is the way to go! You don't have to rely on heating an electric element or using hot air to expand a spring.You have 100% control on how much or how little to open the choke and when you want you can completely open the choke.I'va always installed manual chokes on my carburated cars and I never had choke problems.I even devised a"counter spring" installed on the butterfly to keep it open under a little tension.
Manual choke is the way to go! You don't have to rely on heating an electric element or using hot air to expand a spring.You have 100% control on how much or how little to open the choke and when you want you can completely open the choke.I'va always installed manual chokes on my carburated cars and I never had choke problems.I even devised a"counter spring" installed on the butterfly to keep it open under a little tension.
Similar threads
