Anyone have a bumpsteer / adjustable tie rod kit?

Snikt89GT

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
If so, what kit do you have and what type of spacer configuration did you go with? I'm looking for a starting point on where to put the spacers.

94-95 spindles, bullitt springs (only like 3/4 in drop or so), MM C/C plates, MM bumpsteer kit.

Thanks
 
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will get some pics later but, the spacers will depend on your cars ride height.

Idea is with the car on the ground and it at the proper ride height, the tie rod should be parallel with the ground.

I personally run a HPM kit. I think I have two large spacer on the top, and a small one one the bottom, but will get pics for you later.
 
I also converted to the coilover springs & and C/C plates at the same time so yes I did have to get it re-align.

But If you clearly mark the thread (maybe with white-out) were the sleeve needs to be srewed up too, you could get away without re-aligning it.

But if you miss the mark by a couple of threads it will do alot to the steering.
May cause over-steer
 
Drop Spindles?

I was reading about bumpsteer problems which I have a bit, not as bad as most foxes but, its there. I was wondering if anyone is running drop spindles instead of going the easy bumpsteer kit route? I was looking at them from racecraft they are pricey at 450 a pair but, if it makes for a better steering config. I guess its worth it. Is anybody running these spindles and how low should one go?
 
They are the tappered kit, The bolt through kit will need drilling of the spindle to be installed. I did not want to go that route.

whether you install a bump steer kit or a drop spindle you are doing the same thing to the suspension. why go the more exspensive route.

I don't think the drop spindle would show anymore inprovement than the bumpsteer kit.Than you could spend the extra cash you saved on somthing to make your car go faster.
 
When you install the bumpsteer kit, you want them parallel to the bottom of the A-arm, not the ground. You can do at home alignment to get you close, but it would be best to get it done at a shop. As far as drop spindles go, they are only to drop your car, they will not really affect the a-arm to tie rod relationship, especially if you have already installed lowering springs. That is what causes the bump steer. What I am saying is that when you installed the drop springs, you changed the tie rod and a-arm relaionship. They were parallel, now they are at angle. The spacers in the bump steer kit are there to get the a-arms and tie rods as close to parallel as possible.
Does this make sense? If not, I will try to find a link for you.
 
What is the best option possible? Is one better then the other? With drop spindles would you even have to have a bumpsteer kit? If instead of buying sn95 spindles and a bumpsteer kit couldn't I just buy the spindles and be done? Or is there something I'm missing?
 
If you have lowering springs already installed, then go look at your tie rod and compare the angle to the bottom straight edge of the a-arm. They need to be parallel or straight to each other. That is what the spacers in the kit are for. Drop spindles will not correct that. Drop spindles are usually used with stock height springs unless you are looking to scrape the ground. You are only looking at at 3/4 drop, so dont bother with the spindles. Just use the bump steer kit. As far as alignment, you can get it close at home, but you really need to get it done at a shop afterwards. They will also set the caster and camber at the same time.
I take it you are doing a 5-lug conversion, thus the reason for the 94/95 spindles?
 
Wow, after looking at that, I could make a bumpsteer kit out of Home Depot stuff, and it'd be much more adjustable than the MM kit.

bditty50 - If you leave your springs alone, and only change the spindles in order to change your ride height, than yes, you can leave the tie rods alone and they will be fine.
 
Wow, after looking at that, I could make a bumpsteer kit out of Home Depot stuff, and it'd be much more adjustable than the MM kit.

bditty50 - If you leave your springs alone, and only change the spindles in order to change your ride height, than yes, you can leave the tie rods alone and they will be fine.

I think Maximum motorsports knows what they are doing. Anyway the tapered stud type will give the least adjustment. If you want a big range of adjustment you need the bolt-through style, which requires drilling of the spindle to remove the taper.
 
I think Maximum motorsports knows what they are doing. Anyway the tapered stud type will give the least adjustment. If you want a big range of adjustment you need the bolt-through style, which requires drilling of the spindle to remove the taper.

Exactly. A bolt through, and you can use nuts on the bolt to turn the tie up or down, and then locknuts to secure it. I have no problem with drilling stuff when I know I'm improving upon what's there.
 
Another question about spindles. Alittle off the subject ,but what spindles should I go with sn95 or 96-04 spindles? I've heard opposite arguments on this subject so maybe somebody knows. I have an 89 with 89 fenders which will probably get swapped for 91 if there is clearance issues. What exactly am I drilling out on the spindles? I would like to see, sorry I'm a visual learner.