B-303 has less lift than stock cobra cam!?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by 1994Vib.RedGT, Sep 28, 2005.

  1. First off as a pretense to this, Im a poor college kid, and ive already decided that for now im doing thumper ported E7s or GT40s and a letter cam, because I dont have the money for aluminums and a custom cam, and my money income isint enough so that I could save some for that, it would be gone before i could buy, so dont try to convince me otherwise. Now that thats out of the way, I saw that the B-303 has less lift than the stock cobra cam!!! why? so techincially I could run the B-cam on stock heads with 1.7rr's and not have to worry about piston to valve clearance and the like???
  2. The B cam has about the same lift but it has a ton more duration. Your computer will not like that added duration either. You'd be better off with an E-303. The B-303 is an old school out of date cam.
  3. to simply answer your question, without knocking what kind of parts etc. you are trying to use,

    You can run a B-cam without ptv clearance problems...

  4. Agreed. The E-303 has more lift, a lopey idle, and is emissions legal. You may need a tune to adjust idle b/c of the 112* LSA...or try a Steeda #19 cam..supposed to give good results with the 94-95 computer b/c of the 115* LSA.
  5. B-cam won't give you problems with emissions and will give yo umore power than the E. I don't have any trouble with mine either and I hear nothing but problems and complaints about the e-cam. BTW the idle is awesome. And if the "b" cam is out of date, so is the "E" cam lol. And yes I hear there are better cams as far as driveability. I can run mine under 1500rpm but it does buck a little. No tune here either. Also, I think it is the lift that MAKES it more compatible than the E but don't quote me.
  6. How does the idle sound, because honestly, I dont want a real noticable lope out of mine, I like the way it sounds now, but i want a cam with more power as well. I was looking more at the B because it claims "significant low end torque" as compared to the E-cam. I really am not sure which one would run better, but it comes down to one of the two, which is most preferable.
  7. Would it not be more accurate to word it something like this?

    ANY letter cam is old school and out of date :shrug:

    Not trying to say they won't make good power but the industry had learned a thing or two since they came out.

  8. The b cam is actually larger than the stock cobra cam as the b cam is .480 with 1.6 RRs and the Cobra cam is .479 with 1.7 RRs but the b cam has a lot more duration which is where more power is made compared to lift alone. The b cam makes 5 HP more than the e cam with less lift but more duration according to Ford. The sound is very lopey and gives you a pretty good kick in the pants around 3000 RPM. I like my b cam personally, but will eventually get a TFS stage 1 as it gives more power. Of note, it seems more SNs have idle problems with the E cam than the B cam. I don't have any idle issues on my car.
  9. Save a little money- get just as good (better) cam= trick flow stage one roughly $130
  10. the tfs 1 has a lot more lift though compared to the letter cams correct? and with only running ported E7s and a cobra intake would that not be too much lift?

    also, Im trying to keep the power band to where i have good low end torque, and dont have to wait until 3500 rpm for it to kick in.
  11. "The wolverine 1190 WILL out run the B cam" direct quote from Jay Allen. Specs
    Advertised duration: 289 intake/289 exhaust
    Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 212 intake/222 exhaust
    Gross valve lift: .493 in. intake/.510 exhaust
    Lobe separation: 112 degrees
    Peak horsepower rpm: 5,500
    Peak torque rpm: 2,500
    Power range 2000-5500 - Good idle
    You will not have PTV issues with this cam. Speedpro now makes these cam and are sold pretty cheap by this Ebay seller http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-3...cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33614QQitemZ8002074710
  12. that looks pretty good, anyway to get one used? or is getting a used cam generall not advised?
    Ideally, I would like someting with a torque peak of about 3250-3500 and HP peak around 5000, with a power band from 2000-5000 which is what this cam advertises though, so overall not bad. Ideally as well I would like to stay as cheap as possible, maybe even used, if advised, i mean, im working on a budget, and everything i have done to the car so far w/ exception of headers, gears, and mufflers have been used, and have worked fine for me, so i see no real problem with it.
  13. The problem is most don't know this ebay sellers sells the wolverine (now being made by speedpro) this cheap. Speedpro sells this exact cam for over $300. So buying it used is going to be hard to find and not cheap. You may get lucky and find an original wolverine cam used fairly cheap but good luck. I saw the wolverine 1087/speedpro (the 1190's big brother) being sold on corral for $200 plus shipping.
  14. interesting, that is a good deal than,interestingly enough, ive never heard of a wolverine cam though. Wy, are you running one, if so do you like it?
  15. Not yet ( plan on running TW/wolverine 1087 cam/port my cobra) but you can read all the great things about them from these gurus
    *Note* read Jay's post about out running the B cam Post#10

    This thread is how I found out about the ebay seller
    I spoke with 95CobraMike when he was searching for a cam. He decided to run the wolverine 1190 in his supercharged car (it fit what he wanted). So far he is happy with it. PM him for more detailes on how it idles, etc. By the way he got the came from that ebay seller.
  16. Running the TFS stage 1 with your ported E7's and a cobra intake would cause no issues for you, as far as lift is concerned. Actually, that would be a pretty good combo. I have heard good things about the wolverine camshaft you have discussed as well. I would go with whatever is cheaper. Also (FYI), do not buy a used camshaft or harmonic balancer.

    I was in the same situation as you with my '95GT in college. Junior year of college, I finally amassed enough parts to perform a complete HCI swap. I went with a Stage 1 TFS cam ($130), GT-40P's ($320), TFS valve springs ($100), SVO timing chain and gears ($65), gaskets, ARP studs ($100), proform roller rockers ($160), typhoon upper and lower, port matched at home ($330), used mac 65mm t-body ($70), C&L 76mm maf ($230), TFS phenolic spacer ($60) and 24lb injectors ($199). These mods, combined with synthetic fluids, a/c and smog delete, march pulleys, full exhaust, and a custom chip, made 290rwhp and 335rwtq. Good luck!
  17. Have you got a chart of your dyno pull you could put up :D

    I'd really like to see it :banana:

  18. I hear a lot about port matching, but I have yet to know what it means, so what exactly is it?
  19. Port matching is just that you port the "ports/holes" of the intake or head to match a gasket or port match your lower intake ports to match the head ports (same size). I hope that make sense.
  20. I had a B cam a few years ago in my old 95. I had gt40x heads, b cam with 1.72 rockers, and a typhoon intake. The combo worked really well, went [email protected] with it.. I liked that cam at the time, real strong midrange and top end, worked realy well with the typhoon intake. It was retarded 2 degrees by the way.

    But like people have said, there are better alternatives out there. Theres alot of cheap OTS cams that will blow the b cam away.