B-day present for New Sadie

t_chelle16

Keeper of the closet key
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May 8, 2002
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Knob Noster, Mo.
New Sadie's b-day is coming up on Nov 1.

I know I've been saying I was going to rebuild Old Sadie's 289 and drop into New Sadie, but I've come to the conclusion that a crate engine will actually be a much better route to go.

The number one reason is because a crate engine will have a 3 year warranty wheras if I rebuild Sadie's 289 and something messes up, I'll be out a lot of money. Plus we plan on moving across country in about a year or two so it will be nice to be able to drive Sadie out there with a new, dependable, warrantied engine rather than have to trailer her.

But also, I've been using New Sadie (with a 302) as my daily driver. Ever since I got her, I've been having problems with the timing & vacuum leaks. We've tried everything we can think of to get her running good but it's just been getting worse and it's finally gotten to the point where I don't trust the engine to get me back & forth to work and I'm tired of dropping money on that engine when I don't plan on keeping it. I also don't have a lot of free time to spend right now for rebuilding Old Sadie's 289 and I can't borrow mom's Jeep forever. So I figured the quickest approach would be to get a crate engine to drop in.

I'll still be rebuilding Old Sadie's tranny (New Sadie's isn't too bad so it will do for now), and using various parts from Old Sadie (including the hood), and parts that I bought specifically for Old Sadie (a lot of the interior pieces) so I think I'll be transferring enough of Old Sadie's spirit over so that New Sadie can keep her name.

Now I just need to pick out a crate engine (going with a 302 so I can use New Sadie's engine as a core).

-Chelle
 
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are you going to buy a NEW crate engine or a rebuilt long block? i'd suggest a new one. ford racing has some pretty nice 302's for failry cheap, actually not much more than a parts store rebuilt engine and everything is brand new!!!!
 
I was thinking of a rebuilt one, but I'll price the new ones. One plus for the rebuilt ones is (other than price) is the metal is already seasoned and any warping that's going to happen already has.

EDIT: I think I'll go with the rebuilt ones. They're about 1/3 the cost and have a longer warranty.

-Chelle
 
I think I'm going to need this thread in the tech forum, so could a mod please move it for me?

So, I got a printout of the engines I can get through Autozone (the one here is really great to deal with). Unfortunately, it doesn't really give a whole lot of info on the specs of each engine. I looked online and get pretty much the same thing and I haven't had a chance to chat with the Ford guys there about engines yet.

Does anyone know anything about any of these engines or know where I can find some more detailed info?

I'm not looking to turn Sadie into a race car, I just want a decent v8 (will have to be a 302 if there's a core, otherwise I'd settle for a 289). Anyone else have any resonable suggestions?

EDIT: Alright, link to the available engines isn't working so here's what the site has:
SUREFIRE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1099.99
Core Value*: $200.00
Part No.: DF10
Warranty: 3 YR
Hot run power tested up to 30 minutes. Single roller timing chain, brass freeze plugs. All blocks line honed. Block & heads 100% surfaced. cam bearings line bored to standard chrome or Moly rings. Complete installation gasket set. see VF10 timing cover valve covers & pan no smog. Power test engine. See VF10!! some engines are Equipped with later type cyl heads.

SUREFIRE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1169.99
Core Value*: $200.00
Part No.: VF10
Warranty: 3 YR
Hot run powertested up to 30 minutes. Single roller timing chain. Brass freeze plugs. All blocks line honed. Block & heads 100% surfaced. Cam bearings linebored to standard chrome or Moly rings. Complete installation gasket set. some engines are equipped with later style cyl heads. this is not a problem and does not effect the Performance of the engine, with valve covers, timing cover & oil pan

SUREFIRE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1102.99
Core Value*: $0.00
Part No.: OF10
Warranty: 3 YR
Hot run powertested up to 30 minutes. Single roller timing chain. Brass freeze plugs. All blocks line honed. Block & heads 100% surfaced. Cam bearings linebored to standard chrome or Moly rings. Complete installation gasket set. no smog. Some engines are equipped with later type cyl heads.

SUREFIRE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1245.99
Core Value*: $0.00
Part No.: OFS3
Warranty: 3 YR
Hot run powertested up to 30 minutes. Single roller timing chain. Brass freeze plugs. All blocks line honed. Block & heads 100% surfaced. Cam bearings linebored to standard chrome or Moly rings. Complete installation gasket set. some engines are equipped with later style cyl heads. this is not a problem and does not effect the Performance of the engine, with valve covers, timing cover & oil pan

PROFORMANCE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1254.99
Core Value*: $300.00
Part No.: 3023-6
Warranty: 3 YR
3/8" bolt holes for power steering and A/C brackets *** Original equipment quality ***

PROFORMANCE Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1229.99
Core Value*: $300.00
Part No.: 3023-7
Warranty: 3 YR
7/16" bolt holes for power steering and A/C brackets *** Original equipment quality ***

EVERGREEN_REMAN Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1211.99
Core Value*: $250.00
Part No.: FM-35L
Warranty: 3 YR

RECON Engine for a 1968 Ford Mustang
Unit Price: $1248.99
Core Value*: $400.00
Part No.: 608320
Warranty: 3 YR
Attention: to order must know if original engine has - block casting #C8OE, C8TE - crank casting #2M - head casting #C8OE, D0OE Nationwide 3 year / unlimited mileage warranty. Dynometer test document included. Equipped with new lifters, pushrods, Premium rod and main bearings. reground and micro-polished crankshaft, Cylinder heads are magnafluxed, and engine is spin tested to measure compression, oil pressure and oil flow. warranty for commercial applications is 6 months.

-Chelle
 
I would also check local rebuilders if you have any around you. I've found some rebuilders around here that put just about anything you want into a short block, long block or complete engine with some really good prices. I've had two bow-tie engines rebuilt by local rebuilders and never had problems with the engines. I even found a 289 long block that was rebuilt to stock specs by a local racing shop that couldn't get the money from the owner of the engine so they are going to sell it complete. Just another option for you to think about.
 
Hmmm . . . I doubt there's anyone in my immediate area, but I'll have to see if I can find anyone in KC.

I wonder if I could find someone to rebuild old Sadie's 289 (and provide a warranty on their work) for cheaper than it would cost to get a whole crate engine.

-Chelle
 
Ugh.

I think I now which engine I'm going to get, but before I can order it, I need the casting numbers for the block, heads, and crank. The block casting number is behind the starter which doesn't seem too difficult to get to. The head casting number is on the head itself, though, right? Do I have to pull the whole head off or just the valve cover? Where is the crank casting number? I don't have to pull apart half the engine do I?

-Chelle
 
oh yeah sweetie, the engine has to come apart to get the crank casting numbers. pretty sure you gotta take the head off to get the head casting numbers too. it's been so long since i've taken one apart i can't remember for sure on the head casting.
 
in all honesty, i would check into getting someone to rebuild the 289. keep the 302 as a spare and have it rebuilt later on down the road, yes that means taking with you to Cali when you move but if you crate it up it won't take up too much space.
 
Well, darn it.

I really don't want to keep this 302 (with all the problems I've had with it, I'd like to set it on fire, but I need it for the core). I wouldn't mind keeping the 289, but I have a bit of a time constraint to get the mustang back on the road. Plus I'd get a much better warranty just ordering a longblock. If I get it through Autozone, they're everywhere so it would be no problem making a warranty claim. If I get the 289 rebuilt locally, as soon as I move out of the area, the warranty is pretty much junk because I'd have to come back to the same shop to have it fixed.

And when we move, we're already going to be shipping the 383 & tranny from the Dodge, the Jeep (it won't make it across country under its own power), and the motorcycle plus all of our other stuff and we're not even sure if Northrop will move us or if we'll have to move ourselves. So the less stuff we have to move, the better.

Guess I get to start dismantling the 302 tomorrow.

-Chelle
 
first of all, they don't care what you turn in as a core, so long as its in the same engine family. They don't care and won't know if its a 289 or 302. As for your 68 302, crank number will be 2M for a 302, heads will be C8OE, and the block will likely be a C8. C7 blocks were essentially phased out when they quit producing 289's. I don't thing there is any notable difference between C8OE heads and D0OE 302 heads, both have the same valve sive, 58-60 cc chambers, accessory bolt holes, etc. If you're gonna go crate, go with the Recon brand, they have a good reputation.
 
302 coupe said:
first of all, they don't care what you turn in as a core, so long as its in the same engine family. They don't care and won't know if its a 289 or 302. As for your 68 302, crank number will be 2M for a 302, heads will be C8OE, and the block will likely be a C8. C7 blocks were essentially phased out when they quit producing 289's. I don't thing there is any notable difference between C8OE heads and D0OE 302 heads, both have the same valve sive, 58-60 cc chambers, accessory bolt holes, etc. If you're gonna go crate, go with the Recon brand, they have a good reputation.


Thanks. Although I don't know what year the engine came from. Should the numbers still be the same?

And yes, it is a Recon that I'll most likely be getting. :nice:

-Chelle