back fires, stalls, low acceleration

[mclarkson]

sorry to bother you but i have a question about my boyfriends 95 Mustang 5.0 v8 I drive. He's neither a car enthusiast nor mechanic but is insistent on not listening to me about problems i'm having with the car. I doubt this is causing the current problem since it's running bad for 3 years but i think it’s important to mention: there’s been 1 major tune-up (2010) and he is 6-7 months behind on oil change, new filter and whatever else that’s supposed to be done regularly. Important note: we live in Las Vegas where regular summer temps are 105-112, A/C does not work and got really hot(but i doubt over-heated) 1 time. My b/f has not let the car warm up anymore. He just gets in and goes. I read something about “detonation” and “pre-ignition” can cause damage to head gasket. Our van currently has a damaged head gasket.

A new clutch was put in 2011 but the car never seemed the same since. The clutch broke a 2nd time (1/3/13) and the new clutch sucks. There is no resistance to the pedal and i have to put all my pressure on the pedal to change gears. My b/f was told there’s a clutch cable/line that will need to be replaced very soon. FYI an 18-wheeler mechanic fixed the car.
Problems that are WORSE after the clutch broke a 2nd time (1/3/13):
1. Car barely stays running after starting it. I have to immediately press ALL the way down on the new clutch and hit the gas (usually RPM above 1200). Warming the car takes 6-8 minutes. I’ve never let it cut off after starting it, but I do not believe that it will stay running w/o pressing in the clutch AND revving the engine. Only pushing in the clutch will not keep it running.

2. Oil and battery gauge sway high/low while car struggles to stay running. Even while revving engine, the gauges will sway. The engine feels like it’s shaking harder than normal.

3. Upon take off, the car sputters and back fires and barely accelerates. I have to push the clutch pedal all the way in and rev the engine. It will back fire and bogg down even in 3rd-4th gear on the freeway. It eventually goes away after 45 seconds of 60-70mph.

4. Acceleration is worse. The acceleration will pick up and drop even at 60-70 mph on the freeway. I have to drop gears in order to stay at the same speed prior to going up the hill. Despite how much gas i give it, the car will not accelerate until it’s “given” itself enough time to catch up. And then i go zooming away like I hit the NOS button.

I know VERY little about cars. Please, if possible, do not use acronyms and initals for car parts. I am sorry. I will do my best to answer your questions. i just hope my b/f is willing to listen to other peoples opinions when he only knows slightly more than me.

 

[94GTCoupe]

Sounds like the clutch cable is either stretched or has a broken sheath.
Also the clutch quadrant could be broken.
The quadrant is located under the dash, above the pedal assembly.
Its plastic with teeth on it, one end of the clutch cable is attached to it.
Take a look, if any of the teeth are broken, it needs to be replaced.
The cable runs through the firewall into the engine bay, loops under the car,through a hole in the bellhousing and attaches to the clutch fork under a small metal cover.
You would have to get under the car to thoroughly inspect it.

For the starting/driving issues, the "Check Engine" light should be on.

You'll need to pull the codes and report back here.

The codes are read at the OBD 1 port, in the engine bay, attached to the passenger side strut tower.

I don't think the parts store offer this service anymore, maybe a repair/smog shop will do this for you for a small fee.

 

[94GTCoupe]

Also, I'm assuming your clutch cable/quadrant are factory stock.
You can try the adjustment.

With the car off, use your hand and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, then pull up as much as you can.
If it was just out of adjustment, this may solve it.

 

[mclarkson]

Thank you for replying. I will print this off.

My boyfriends brother works at AutoZone (another reason I'm mad at him for the car being in it's current condition). I will ask if he will be able to do this tomorrow morning.
Yes, many of the parts are factory but most of them were bought from junkyards. Our clutch though is still under warranty from AutoZone.

Even after a tune-up in 2010(sorry I dont know if tune-up is the correct word) the "check engine" light still came on despite my boyfriend telling me "It shouldnt be doing that anymore". The "low coolant" and "ABS" light go on and off randomly so i didnt think the "check engine" light was accurate.

I also forgot to mention, i smell an odor while idling (no heat on) and while driving with the heater on. It's usually exhaust while idling, but I don't know if it's from the tail-pipe (the back window is currently not in due to the top being torn) or coming inside from the vents.
Another weird thing it is doing now, instead of turning off quickly and back firing really bad, the car starts with minimal problems but the windsheild wipers will turn on and sway 2 times then drop back down. Is that the battery?

 

[94GTCoupe]

If its starting, I'd say the battery is ok.
But since bfs brother works at AutoZone, have him test it.
They'll do it for free.

Wipers, could you be accidentally pushing in the wiper lever?

Also could be the ground cables.
Bad grounds do funny things, electrically.

Low coolant light, its either low on coolant at the overflow bottle, or the low coolant sensor (two metal prong at the end of the long tube inside the coolant bottle) are covered in corrosion.

ABS light, could be low on brake fluid or one of the ABS sensors are bad.

Clutch/tranny, the AutoZone piece will be a stock style replacement, focus on the cable and clutch quadrant.

Odor, the cars not running correctly.
That and a missing window will let all the exhaust in.
Once its running correctly, I bet it'll smell a lot better.