Engine Bad Noise. After Hydraulic Lifter Replacement

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Ivan Cheranev, Jun 17, 2013.

  1. Hi,

    it was shown after lifter replacement.

    pushers were not established in the same position, may be the cause of knocking?

    I need help. Maybe someone met the similar?

    p.s. hello from Russian Mustang Club:)
  2. Hello Ivan. I just replaced the lifters on my 95 GT so I am very familiar with the job. Have you fixed your car yet? Do you still need help?
  3. I removed the intake manifold and all the lifters right side.
    One of the hydraulic lifters easily compressed by fingers. I replaced it. But the sound is not eliminated.
  4. Ivan,

    I can certainly help you with thos problem. Please do not continue your work until we talk. You can feel free to email me if you want. I will see a new email before I see a notification from this site. My email address is [email protected]

    I'm glad to help you fix the problem.

  5. I plan to check and remove all the elements of the valvetrain. I will measure the length of the pushrods, check all clearances.
    I'll start next Monday.
    p.s. I write my message using Google translator
  6. Ivan, I understand now that you do not speak English. It is a good idea to check the idea of your push rods. Also, make sure that you keep them in the same position according to how you removed them.

    1. Do you know how to find top dead center in cylinder number one?
    2. Do you know that you need to have zero valve lash?
    3. Do you know that you must let the lifters soak completely submerged in new oil for three days before installation? If you do not you can easily ruin the lifters.
    4. Do you know that when you re-install the new lifters that their height cannot be trusted? You must push down on them before tightening the rocker arms.

    I have complete step by step directions and pictures that show you how to do this job properly. My instructions are in English, but maybe it will be helpful to you. I will post a link for you. Please let me know if you need further help, Ivan.
  7. I will tell the story in brief: I bought the Stang a year ago, the engine was now in this condition.
    Mileage was 160,000 km
    Please do not be afraid:)
  8. this is my first experience with the engine.
    I did everything by this book
  9. I mixed up the pushrods, everything else is set in the same position.

    Yes, I know it


    I they were in the oil for about half of the day

    Yes, I did it

    I have no problem with the translation from English. But I translate into English badly))

    From new parts in the drive valve lifters only (Clevite). So now I will check all the other elements.
  10. Hello Ivan,

    You did a great job cleanng the engine! My advise to you concerning the push rods is to get stock replacement push rods. It is critical that the old rods get replaced in the same position because the valve train parts wear out together in a pattern. Since you do not know the original order now, you should replace them to avoid trouble.

    Also, in your last picture of the rocker arm componants there is much wear and scoring present. Those factory rocker arms are tired and need to be replaced. You have come this far, do not take a short cut.

    About valve lash adjustment: in order to get zero lash you start by locating top dead center on cylinder #1 (left side of engine while standing in front of it). Once the lifters are on the base lobe of the camshaft (at their lowest point), you can begin torquing the rocker arms to 18-21 foot pounds. Before you torque all the way make sure that you push down on the rocker arm above the push rod with force. You will find in some cases that the lifter will slide down further. Once there is no more movement in the lifter complete your torquing. When it is torqued down you have achieved zero lash on that cylinder. Then, wait 5 minutes, rotate the motor watching the next cylinder's lifter movement and begin the process again.

    This process will work flawlessly if you patiently follow it, if you have new lifters, and if you have soaked your new lifters for at least three days. If the lifters are not new then you cannot count on them working properly. They are known to die when they get older and dirty. Your engine was very dirty. Also, if they do not soak for three days they will still have tiny pockets of air in them and will not function properly when you try to achieve zero lash. They will also be ruined when you start your engine.

    I'm sorry for all the typing. I'm just trying to give you all the help i can. Please consider replacing the worn out valvetrain componants and following the steps I gave you. You will be happy in the end.

  11. Ivan, another thing: DO NOT follow the Haynes manual when torquing the upper intake to the lower intake. If you do you can easily strip the lower intake. Tighten the bolts in the proper sequence (autozone.com has free repair manuals that show you the sequence). But DO NOT torque them. Tighten the upper intake bolts like you would spark plugs and stop.

    Also, follow the 3 step torque sequence for the lower manifold. After you have followed the sequences and achieved the maximum torque level wait ten minutes then torque the bolts once more at the maximum torque level. In that ten minute wait the manifold will have settled down and the bolts will have loosened up. The fourth round of torquing will solve this problem. If you put blue thread locker on the bolts and follow this patter you will not need to ever tighten the bolts again!
  12. Ivan - WOW! You want me to buy you a ticket to come to Indiana to help me clean my engine? Amazing job man! I hope Joe gets you figured out. You look like you are doing too good a job on that Stang to be having any problems. Great work and good luck. Let us see more pics when you are done.
  13. He had indeed done a wonderful job cleaning his engine. I hope he takes my advise. I just finished replacing the lifters on my car. I have a friend who is a specialist with Ford engines. The advice I gave Ivan is the same advice I got. It worked flawlessly the first time.

    I think Ivan should buy new lifters after he ran them dry and heard ticking.
  14. Yeah, it sounds like it.
  15. Today I measured the clearance between the valve and rocker:

    Rh bank
    1 Ex 0,35 Int 0,25
    2 Ex 0,15 Int 0,05
    3 Ex 0,15 Int 0,40
    4 Ex 0,05 Int 0,55

    Lh bank
    5 Ex 0,20 Int 0,05
    6 Ex 0,05 Int 0,30
    7 Ex 0,05 Int 0,40
    8 Ex 0,60 Int 0,15
    apparently really need to replace all the push rods and rocker arms.
    or more should pay attention to some components?
    Joetrainer31, thanks a lot
  16. Ivan, my pleasure.

    If your pushrods are stock & your rocker arms are stock (they look stock), then there is no need to measure. I did notice that your rocker arms are worn and need replacing. Just replace them with Crane Cams 1.7 bolt down rocker arms. They will fit your stock components just fine. If you want the part number I will give it to you.

    Also, inspect the pedestals that the rocker arms sit on. If you seen even one hair-line crack in one pedestal you should replace them all. The pedestals are $13 on Amazon. I can give you the part number to those as well. I promise that there is no magic to setting up the valve train. Just replace worn components and adjust as I advised you.

    I have no idea about parts availability where you live or if you can import parts, but I found Amazon a wonderful parts supplier. Also, I like LateModelRestoration.com

    I'm happy to help you any way I can, Ivan. Just let me know.
  17. Ivan, here are the parts...



    soak your [new] lifters like this for 3 days...

  18. Ivan, how are you progressing?
  19. Stang stands. For new parts from US is not enough money yet. Delivery about a month is a lot, so missed half a season this year.
    Now I'm waiting for used parts from a person from our club, but he lives far away, about a week will deliver it.