Drivetrain Basic Mod Questions

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by jdemolet, Sep 1, 2013.

  1. .im new to the forums and I know you guys have heard these questions before but I just got my first stang 89 gt convert. my first question is have any of you guys used the ngk v power plugs. I also have a taylor cap and rotor I want to bump the timing from 10 degrees to about 13 im running 89 octane. I want to know would that still be in the safe zone. I also want to do a k&n drop in filter and remove the air silencer. and I also want to put a shift kit in the aod what is a good one I was looking at summit racing and found a b&m for 38 buck are they any good. but my main question is with those upgrades would a custom dyno tune help any in power and torque. and if I did a dyno tune do I need a new chip or can I burn a tune into the stock computer. how much gain could I expect with those upgrades.
  2. forget those plugs instead invest in a MSD..13 degrees would be ok but not more...the stock paper filter flows more when new than the k/n...i'm shocked that the air silencer is still on it....i would get a better shift tune is required...
  3. I mean the plugs wires cap and rotor was a kit from am. when I bought the car had stock catted h pipe and cherry bomb turbo mufflers. the car has only 104,000 miles. what kind of shift kit should I get and im looking for decent and cheap. I know a tune is not required but to just button all the mods together. can me and a friend do the shift kit on a weekend.
  4. Don't waste your money on gimmick plugs and ignition. Stick with Autolite coppers. Taylor makes great wires but in general you will do better just to buy the stock replacement FOMOCO cap and rotor. Your stock coil, TFI, and ignition are better than 99% of the aftermarket and are good well into 400hp. You'll need to check for pinging with only 89 octane. The k&n is an easy and proven pickup of 5 hp. Forget any tune. You don't need it.

    The first thing you should do are some of the cheap and easy upgrades that will free up HP- 3G alternator and E fan, remove the silencer, 70 MM MAF from a 94-95 GT, 65 MM TB from an Explorer. Next I would say gears, then exhaust. Then look at the AOD. Putting a shift kit or VB in with the stock gears is backwards IMO.

    A good shift kit will actually help your AOD in that it will firm up the shifts and stop slippage between gears. Just know the AOD stock is already a weak transmission, and once you start doing the 1-d-1 shuffle or adding any stress to it, the OD band and other parts will go. Your best bet is to first add an auxiliary trans cooler as heat is the worst enemy of a trans. If you can save up, it would be better to wait until you can buy a new valve body that will make your transmission perform much better, and keeps constant pressure on the valve body so you don't have to rely on the TV cable. Dan at Silverfox is a great guy who can tell you exactly which way to go, as it will depend on your gears, stall speed and other variables as to how to modify your transmission for optimal performance and longevity.
  5. well I already have an o/r h pipe and 1 chamber flows. im really just looking for better drivability on the street and some firmer shifts I just want it when I hit the gas that it goes quicker on the street
  6. ^^^^what mike said, ....and for pete sake STAY AWAY from MSD, luckily my msd coil hasn't went out yet. google why msd sucks, ramped failers EVERYWHERE!!!
  7. I've been running a mallory TFI stocker for a while with no issues. MSD coil tho.

    I like mallorys cap and rotor design. Looks a lot more bulletproof than the stock distributor.
  8. is the motorcraft filter just as good as the k&N
  9. For the oil., FL1A is about as good as you can get. I've been running them for decades. WIX another good choice. Avoid Fram. You'd be surprised if you cut each open and see what is inside. Huge difference in the filter material and quality.

    For the air filter, a good paper filter will flow just about as well as a K&N and is a lot cheaper. You will maybe see 5 hp more with the K&N. I've run them and they are a good filter and will last forerever, but you have to be careful not to over oil them or it will mess with your MAF.
  10. can't beat an FL1a
  11. I was referring to air filter
  12. You don't need an aftermarket ignition on a stock car.

    OEM copper plugs, quality wires cap and rotor and call it a day. Yank the silencer, put a drop in k&n, clean the mAF and replace the fuel filter and that's a good chunk of routine maintainence done. Replace the PVC, clean the EGR, perform the idle reset procedure.

    You can bump the timing to 13 degrees but if you get detonation, either run 93 octane or go back to 10.

    After all this run the codes, write down what you get, delete the codes, drive a bit and rerun them again. If you have codes the 2nd time...troubleshoot those.

    Before you modify, make sure your engine is running 100%
  13. Very sound advice. Too many times people throw money at "performance" parts that are not needed and then are disapointed when there are no discernable benefits over quality stock repacement parts. Your stock ignition system is solid and good for well into 400hp. Autolite copper plugs, FOMOCO cap & rotor, good wires lke Taylor, Wix fuel and air filter, new PCV valve and call it a day.
  14. already changed the pcv valve and fuel filter got the plugs wires cap and rotor not changing the coil had new fomoco coil put in beofore I bought it is the motorcraft just as good as the k&n when clean. need to remove the silencer I want to run 93 and put the timing up to 12 to 13
  15. I removed the silencer something then happened to one of the studs and broke so the box has some gap so im hoping it doesn't start to get warm