Battery Box in '07 GT/CS?

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by Nunja Business, Feb 12, 2013.

  1. Has anybody put a battery box in their engine compartment?
    I would really like to hide it but I am not interested in overpaying for some plastic cover that just sits on top of it.

    To clarify:
    I am not looking to relocate the battery to the trunk (although that might be an idea for later, especially If I decide to track it) I just want to contain/hide the ugly beast.

    Something like this:
    Camco 55362 RV Standard Battery Box : : Automotive

    is what I was hoping to use. Then I can spray paint it or leave it black.

    I don't have anything against the guys who make the battery/master cylinder covers I have seen. I just don't think $2 worth of molded plastic should cost $90+

    Attached Files:

  2. Go ahead and move it to the back. I'm glad I did. Now I have room for a Canton reservoir - just haven't gotten around to putting it in, or buying it for that matter. But it improved my wet weather traction just enough so I can't get rolling without a little fishtail every time I leave a light.

    I used a Taylor kit with welding cable.
  3. Yeah, the problem with going ahead and doing that is that it will be well over $100 that I would rather save for a tuner.
    I can get the one I linked to for $12 delivered. I guess I will just have to do some real measuring when the weather clears up.
    Maybe this weekend. I thought someone here would have tried some of the el cheapo ones.
    Thanks for the advice though! :)
  4. Understand. The battery relocation was a pain in the butt, but it did have benefits beyond getting the ugly thing out of the engine compartment...
  5. Also understand that our cars DO NOT like the battery in the trunk. You have to run min 2ga welding wire power and ground from front to rear. Why the ground you ask? U-body will not transfer the ground. I found out the hard way. You also need to run a min 8ga from the alt back to the battery. Just thought I would chime in. Just went through all this and other thin the weight in the rear and the better look under the hood whats the point. Oh and you also have to put a master kill in or never see the track again. After all that I ended up putting the battery back under the hood. Why? Cause our starters pull alot of amps after the car gets warm ,and mine would fail leaving me sitting with my 10,000 $ stroker. SO to me it was not worth it. To all .Yes I had the right stuff. NorthStar G34 battery (2200 cca) 2ga power and ground Pollak kill switch (185 amp pull) pretty gold terms the hole 9. I read alot about people have the same " heat soke" issues, and 90% of them have their battery in the trunk. Just a thought.
  6. Hmm. It's unfortunate you had so many problems. I've had the battery in the trunk for more than a year and I've never had a problem.

    The ground works fine too. Established a grounding stud in the trunk for car and audio system (two high current Infinity Amps). Of course I didn't eliminate any of the engine compartment grounds.

    I went with 0 gauge welding wire though. Runs through two Stinger 200 amp circuit breakers; one breaks for the system and second breaks for the audio. I'll install a kill switch if/when I need to. And the battery - original battery that Ford installed.

    Works perfect. Does for several friends too, so we must be the lucky 10%.
  7. you know Ive never had any issues before. I have 3 vic with battery's in the trunk. Only this one.
  8. That certainly is odd.
  9. You know I thought so to. I have wired countless stereo systems. I mean hundreds and I mean big ones. Like 12 battery's in the back running of 2 self contained 240 amp alts with issorlators so that each battery gets a full charge, and another 180 amp for the car. I have wired atleast 20 master kill systems with the battery in the rear and never had any issues. My ground was grounded to the frame and the u-body in the rear and that failed. So thin I ran another ground up to the block ground { This was all 2ga high strand welding wire) that helped but the starter still dragged. So I thin pull the kill switch thinking it was not passing enough amps through it still no good. So I finialy gave up. I have been looking at a ground disconnect system that might work better but kinda of at a loss. Like I said I talked to alot of people that were having the same issues with " heat soak" and their cars not starting and all but 1 had put their battery in the trunk. So my thought runs back to the lenght of wire and the high amp's needed to start the car after it gets warm.
  10. I do love the welding cable though... I used it for both the positive and the ground wires. Super flexible and very low resistance.

    So I take it your batter is permanently installed in your engine compartment now...? I know how frustrating chasing gremlins can be.