Best adjustable rear shocks?

68conv4sp

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Oct 24, 2005
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My '68 conv has a bottoming problem at the rear. The front is fine w/ cut stock springs and KYB GR-2s. The rear has new stock 4 leafs with 1" lowering blocks and GR-2s. What rear shock could I install that would be adjustable to dial in the comfort/stiffness? I don't know much about adjustable shocks, but am not really concerned with cost since it is only two shocks. Or should I just get KYB Gas-A-Justs (not really adjustable, right?) and hope the ride is not too harsh?

The rear sits 1/4" lower than the front so I won't mind if new gas shocks push it up a little.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
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The springs are new, 4 leaf, stock rate, 1" lowering block. I would like to try different shocks before replacing the springs again.

I'm going through a similar issue,sagging rear end.I replaced the old rear Monroe crappy shocks with KYB Gas-a-Just shocks this past week. The ride is a lot smoother and more comfortable while driving along over varying road surfaces,but DID NOT solve the bottoming out problem at the rear when hitting a rain-channel dip in the road or something like that,I always have to slow down for those suckers.

Bear in mind that my car is a 69 Fastback,so not sure about different weight issues etc.

I have ordered some standard eye 5-leaf springs and hope to fit those in next week.Should firm it up a l;ot and possibly rasie the rear slightly,which I don't mind. Like COV3R said,more likely the weak leafs than the shocks ! In my case,it seems the shocks can only take so much weight bearing down on them,but as soon as you start going over dips and brows in the road etc,the shocks compress too far and bottom out. A nice sturdy set of leafs would help to soak that up.
 
I liked the Gas-A-Just shocks for daily driving.

When I started to drag race, I switched to Rancho adjustable shocks--RS99204. About $100 each. These are spec'ed for a Nissan truck, but work great on the Mustang and are a popular Mustang swap. I like them because I can dial my ride soft or hard with just the turn of a knob. Oh yes, I do run this car on the street too (on rural farm roads.)

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If you really want a better shock than that, the QA1's will fit your bill, but you will be out somewhere around $200 per shock.
 

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The shock absorber controls the rate of compression and rebound. To change how the suspension handles chassis load, you have to address the springs, somehow. In this case, the spring is too light to handle the chassis when you hit a bump - you have too little travel before the chassis bottoms out. A stiffer spring can live with less travel, or you can increase the travel by removing your lowering blocks.
 
I am going to start by removing weight from the trunk. Anyone aware of a mini spare to replace the full size? Also, the new under seat woofers might help to get that heavy 10"/box out of the trunk. Anyone have experience with those?
 
Firstly, you'll need to ascertain exactly what is bottoming out. Are your shockies bottoming out in the tubes, or is the axle housing hitting the rubber stops on the body?

Personally, I'd never settle for anything less than Konis and they can be bought specifically for lowered applications - the whole shockie is shorter to prevent it from bottoming out in the tube.

I'm not a big fan of the blocks either. Get the right springs and you won't need them.