Best Method for Drilling Emblem Holes in Fenders?

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Realmongo, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. Who knows of the best method for drilling the holes to mount the Mustang emblem and name plate for proper placement of the emblem mounting studs without screwing up a new front fender?
  2. Put down several layers of masking tape before you drill, that should help. Maybe other people have better ideas :shrug: Good Luck :nice:
  3. Thats what I would say. And start with the smallest drill bit you can for a pilot hole. Then use the right size bit. Should help prevent the bit from walking.
  4. Forgot to mention that, good call :)
  5. simple clean up the looks of the car don't put um on. :rlaugh:
  6. There has been some really good tech articles that used to be on the mustangs and fords, and mustang monthly websites. I know they have some good articles in the print magazines, if you neeed i'll try and scan them in this weekend.
  7. Mongo Man: Make a template from another fender and tranfer it to the new one.

    BTW, I do NOT recommend starting with a small bit and then going larger by "hogging out" the hole. Doing so tends to causes the bit to "walk" and distort the whole off center. :nono: :nono: :nono:


    Your pal, SD
  8. Im sorry SD, but im gonna have to disagree with ya on that one.
    But i still :hail2: to your superior knowledge.
  9. If you're using repro emblems, transfer the locations from another fender like SuperDave said. Put electrical tape (couple of layers) over the hole locations and press your emblem into the tape. The repro emblems sometimes have slightly different tang locations.

    This is one area where I do use a smaller pilot bit to slowly drill holes through the indents in the tape. The smaller bit does not have the tendency to walk. Then drill your final hole size.

    If you don't have a fender to transfer the holes from, I have the templates I used on my car and will mail them to you. PM me if you need them.

  10. I have an original 64-1/2 fender to use for the guide (64-1/2 Mustang script is different from 65-66). The Emblems and script are all NOS 64-1/2 Ford items.
  11. That is entirely wrong on the bit. A large bit will walk way easier than a small one. Drilling pilot holes work for everything from working on metal, to wood, to plastic etccc... Try it on a scrap piece of metal with a large bit and you will see. The small bit starts cutting the metal with the fat part of the bit quicker, while the larger bit has a larger point which can easily walk on you. Even companies that drill into lines at refineries do what is called a center punch first. They punch the line to indent the spot where the bit will start drilling.

  12. i used tracing paper to transfer the hole locations from an old fender to the new fender..i very gently center-punched the holes then used a tiny drill bit to start..then worked my way up to the proper size ...joe
  13. Center punching the sheet metal warps the fender, very slightly, but it does warp. SuperDave is absolutely correct. Using a tiny bit and coming back in with a correct size bit will create an oblong hole. Just put down your tape (a couple of layers), which will support the drill bit and protect the paint, and use a new or very sharp bit of the correct size. Get the drill up to speed quickly and it goes right through, perfectly.

    As was mentioned before, double check the tang locations before you drill, because reproduction pieces usually vary from the original parts.
  14. OK, didn't mention the center punch but it such an accepted practice that I though it to be understood. As in the case of the bit, it too MUST be SHARP. The holes for the spell outs and badges are not all that large so a "pilot hole" isn't really all that important. A QUALTITY bit starts cutting immediately and, since accuracy is important, the first few revolutions of the bit are critical. IMO, too many people try this with poor punches and bits thus causing botched holes. LARGE holes are another matter.

    I use Craftsman titaniam bits and replace them often.

    Mongo: If you want, I can make you a 64 1/2 spell-out template. I just HAPPEN to have a good fender to copy. :D
  15. Just to throw this idea out there as an alternative (not that it is how I would do it) but if one is truly skiddish about the drilling and not going for a concours correct installation, then I would think that it is also an easy enough option to file off the tangs from the emblem and simply adhere them with a double sided tape ala some of the more modern emblems on cars today. Tape technology has come a very long way and can wear like iron.

    Just food for thought, nothing more.

  16. I agree the bit should be sharp. If the holes are small, then I agree you don't need a pilot hole. If its more than a couple bit sizes from the smallest one you have then I would still personally do it. I would do that over a center punch on my fender, cause if you don't have a real good punch and you knock it to hard, you screw up you fender. If its thicker metal, then a center punch should be ok. I don't know how big the holes are on a mustang emblem, cause I only have cobra badges on mine, and as the last guy posted they stick on just find. In fact, when I bought my car, it was already cloned from ten years before and the fender badges were sticking just fine after ten years. :nice:
  17. When I have to drill a hole in sheet metal or thin stock,
    I use a Brad Point bit.
    It is a drill bit with a sharp center point that will keep the bit
    from walking and right on center.
    A pilot hole that is required for a large diameter will some times wobble
    if your not careful and have a var speed drill.

    Just my 2cts.

  18. Is the fender painted? Maybe an obvious question, but it wasn't asked or stated.
  19. I used the blue, painters tape because it has less tack than masking tape.
  20. No Larry it is not painted yet. It is essentially an original NOS Ford fender still in the factory primer that was found hanging on a garage wall by myself, SuperDave and Tylers65. It had been installed on a project car several years ago but never made it out of the garage into the weather or paint shop. The emblems are original NOS 64-1/2 Ford pieces. This is assuming the thing ever gets here. It was freight shipped back from out by SuperDaves cabin almost 2 weeks ago and I still have not seen or heard from it yet.