Best Shift kit for a 4r70

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I ran my Transgo for many years with no issues. Make sure the person doing the install really knows what they are doing.

The "Jerry mod" is good too, but I couldnt find consistent instructions anywhere back in the day... A lot of "could do this, or this, or this".... it would be easy to make a mess of it without clear instructions.
 
Buy an SCT tuner and get free custom tunes from BAMA for life. Included in their tunes is a complete remapping of all shift points and increased shift firmness for the 4R70W. Their tunes absolutely transformed my 4R70W. I don't see any other aftermarket shift kit could be any better.

.....plus you get a tuner with free tunes for life. After the price of a shift kit and the cost of having it installed, you won't be that much lower than the price of a tuner.

Food for thought.
 
Buy an SCT tuner and get free custom tunes from BAMA for life. Included in their tunes is a complete remapping of all shift points and increased shift firmness for the 4R70W. Their tunes absolutely transformed my 4R70W. I don't see any other aftermarket shift kit could be any better.

.....plus you get a tuner with free tunes for life. After the price of a shift kit and the cost of having it installed, you won't be that much lower than the price of a tuner.

Food for thought.

You are dead right. I have both. Got the shift kit first and I had a few chips / tuners. The SF3 shift map is amazing for an auto. Much better than just a shift kit. The combination of both is great too.
 
Buy an SCT tuner and get free custom tunes from BAMA for life. Included in their tunes is a complete remapping of all shift points and increased shift firmness for the 4R70W. Their tunes absolutely transformed my 4R70W. I don't see any other aftermarket shift kit could be any better.

.....plus you get a tuner with free tunes for life. After the price of a shift kit and the cost of having it installed, you won't be that much lower than the price of a tuner.

Food for thought.

I agree, BUT, the J-mod is actually good for your transmission, whereas increasing the line pressure through a tune is not. Like 007 said, the optimum combination is to do both.

And that's the great thing about the Jerry mod (assuming you do it yourself): it's FREE! The only expenses are the fluid and filter, which, if you have 50,000+ miles, it's not a bad idea to do anyway.

OP, this article should be exactly what you need. http://www.crownvic.net/tech/4R70Wnotes.pdf About removing the accumulator springs, that is an option. After doing a lot of reading around the web, I chose to leave mine in after a lot of people were complaining that it was shifting too hard at part-throttle if they took them out. My car still shifts very, very firm at WOT, but is not at all hard at part throttle. But, if you want it to really slam gears, take the springs out.

Hope this helps.
 
I did the Jmod and went with the jmod suggested accumulator pistons/springs then everything else was a Transgo StgII which helps ensure clutch pack overlap for one thing.
I traded it for a built T56, but the owner has no complaints and I think it gets beat up at the track.
 
Good info there chaps. Yes, I was aware of the increased line pressure from using a tuner. I have a diablosport and can/have done this but not to full shift firmness as I was looking to `help` my transmission as well as make it shift better.
The J mod seems the way ahead though. Just a case of the separator gaskets being drilled. Not as simple as it sounds though.
 
The J mod seems the way ahead though. Just a case of the separator gaskets being drilled. Not as simple as it sounds though.

It's not as hard as it sounds either. Here it is:

1) Remove the pan/let oil drain out.
2) Remove the 20 or so bolts holding the valve body in and remove the valve body.
3) Take the separator plate off the valve body.
4) Drill the holes in the separator plate.
5) Replace the separator plate, valve body, and oil pan.
6) Fill it back up with transmission fluid.

That's it! Of course there are other smaller things to do like taking the electrical connectors off the valve body and cleaning the valve body before taking the plate off and all that, and there's a little extra work to do if you remove the accumulator springs, but that ^^ is pretty much it. Oh, and add getting drenched in transmission fluid between steps 1 through 3.