Best t-stat housing available on the market today? or any housing w/o the inevitably leaking bleeder screw...

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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I'm sick of trying to seal the bleeder screw, or whatever the hell it is, on this non-stock t-stat housing. After my 3rd failed attempt, I'm ready to find a no frills, basic, t-stat housing that works. I've read a lot of bad reviews about the OEM replacements on Summit, and I hope someone's got an extra original they're willing to part with. If so, or if you know the best quality tstat- housing still in production, please lend a fellow fox guy a hand. Thanks! -Chris
 
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74stang2togo

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If you're talking about the pipe plug on this style (which is there so they can sell one water outlet to fit a crapton of 5.0/5.8 applications with a single part number), it's easy to get it to seal if you install it using Permatex PTFE thread sealant. Make sure both parts are clean and dry when you apply the sealant to the plug and install it. I haven't had a single one of these leak yet (and I've installed four of them).

That said, if you really want an OEM-style one, I might have one in my storage unit, but I probably won't have time to look until Friday morning.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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By Saturday he will have a shelf full of them.
I've got a autozoned replacement, blue rtv let it sit overnight, good to go, never used one with a bleeder screw.
 
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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Thanks guys. Just tired of trying to seal this damned thing. I tried teflon tape first. Then teflon paste. Then teflon paste on bottom threads and silicone on top threads. The screw is much bigger than what I'm seeing in these pics.
 

Blown88GT

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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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I've updated the initial post with the image of my problem --> the pointless massive screw on top of the housing. I think it's just the size of that damned screw that makes it tough to seal. The teflon paste/ water pump RTV combo lasted about 2 days.
 

RangerJoe

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That screw is not original. I'm guessing it's straight thread while the tstat housing is tapered pipe thread. That's probably why it doesn't seal.
I was thinking the same thing. Should be a 3/8 NPT plug that you can get at HD.

Joe
 

Blown88GT

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The port was for a temperature switch. It's a 3/8" NPT. I drilled mine out for a M22-1.5 Wahler temp switch which was the only one I could find at the time with the right specs to control an electric fan. I still have the drill & tap & some temp switches.
Later on, changed to a PWM fan controller. The old t-stat housing was eroded away, so threw it out. The chrome plated aluminum ones won't do that.
Looks like Ford stopped making those housings, search for the Ford part # M-8592-B302
You can still find them on eBay.
 

Gear grabber

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Never use a chrome stat. housing on a performance car. (slippery)
I have a low mount alt.,so I use a earlier factory housing.
 
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HotFox

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Reminds me of the problem I had years ago on a Chevy with a aftermarket housing. It had a o-ring groove and would leak at the base. Replaced with a gasket still leaked and only at certain times like when cold. Determined that aluminum must have been some type of pot metal at was absolutely garbage. It was chrome too. Guess what my mustang has on it? A OEM housing!
 

FastDriver

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If it is a straight thread, it is missing the O ring that enables straight threaded pressure connections seal...
Because of this comment, I've given the old housing one more chance. There's definitely an o-ring groove above the threads. Thank you. I didn't know there was a difference in sealing straight threads vs. pipe threads. Put an O-ring on it, thread sealant, and gasket maker on it. The housing is definitely a nice quality housing with a Ford stamp inside. I do think the screw is the original design. So, I'm hoping this will work some magic. 5th time's a charm!
 
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