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Best t-stat housing available on the market today? or any housing w/o the inevitably leaking bleeder screw...
- Thread starter FastDriver
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- Mar 7, 2002
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If you're talking about the pipe plug on this style (which is there so they can sell one water outlet to fit a crapton of 5.0/5.8 applications with a single part number), it's easy to get it to seal if you install it using Permatex PTFE thread sealant. Make sure both parts are clean and dry when you apply the sealant to the plug and install it. I haven't had a single one of these leak yet (and I've installed four of them).
That said, if you really want an OEM-style one, I might have one in my storage unit, but I probably won't have time to look until Friday morning.
99% sure I have one sitting in a box I just moved upstairs this weekend. Let me know if you want it.
By Saturday he will have a shelf full of them.
I've got a autozoned replacement, blue rtv let it sit overnight, good to go, never used one with a bleeder screw.
I've got a autozoned replacement, blue rtv let it sit overnight, good to go, never used one with a bleeder screw.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Thanks guys. Just tired of trying to seal this damned thing. I tried teflon tape first. Then teflon paste. Then teflon paste on bottom threads and silicone on top threads. The screw is much bigger than what I'm seeing in these pics.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
The one I see on Summit is a Ford Performance Parts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-8592-b302
I've updated the initial post with the image of my problem --> the pointless massive screw on top of the housing. I think it's just the size of that damned screw that makes it tough to seal. The teflon paste/ water pump RTV combo lasted about 2 days.
That screw is not original. I'm guessing it's straight thread while the tstat housing is tapered pipe thread. That's probably why it doesn't seal.
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I was thinking the same thing. Should be a 3/8 NPT plug that you can get at HD.
Joe
Blown88GT
Founding Member
The port was for a temperature switch. It's a 3/8" NPT. I drilled mine out for a M22-1.5 Wahler temp switch which was the only one I could find at the time with the right specs to control an electric fan. I still have the drill & tap & some temp switches.
Later on, changed to a PWM fan controller. The old t-stat housing was eroded away, so threw it out. The chrome plated aluminum ones won't do that.
Looks like Ford stopped making those housings, search for the Ford part # M-8592-B302
You can still find them on eBay.
Later on, changed to a PWM fan controller. The old t-stat housing was eroded away, so threw it out. The chrome plated aluminum ones won't do that.
Looks like Ford stopped making those housings, search for the Ford part # M-8592-B302
You can still find them on eBay.
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
- 283
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Never use a chrome stat. housing on a performance car. (slippery)
I have a low mount alt.,so I use a earlier factory housing.
I have a low mount alt.,so I use a earlier factory housing.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Reminds me of the problem I had years ago on a Chevy with a aftermarket housing. It had a o-ring groove and would leak at the base. Replaced with a gasket still leaked and only at certain times like when cold. Determined that aluminum must have been some type of pot metal at was absolutely garbage. It was chrome too. Guess what my mustang has on it? A OEM housing!
Because of this comment, I've given the old housing one more chance. There's definitely an o-ring groove above the threads. Thank you. I didn't know there was a difference in sealing straight threads vs. pipe threads. Put an O-ring on it, thread sealant, and gasket maker on it. The housing is definitely a nice quality housing with a Ford stamp inside. I do think the screw is the original design. So, I'm hoping this will work some magic. 5th time's a charm!
