Best water pump and engine mount to replace oem?

[KFRG]

What's up guys,
My fox needs a new engine mount and radiator, both are original oem. The car is a street car. For the radiator, I am going to go with a fluidyne for manual trans (my car's a conversion). What kind of engine mount should I get? There's 2 mounts correct, left and right? AFAIK, the water pump is oem as well. Should I have this replaced as well, what's the best brand/pump to go with?
Lastly, I am going to have a local shop do the work, it's cheaper for me to order the stuff myself right? I'm thinking of using latemodelresto.

Thanks.

 

[Grn92LX]

Go to autozone and get a new stock replacement pump with a lifetime warranty for $30.

You can get parts store replacements mounts too if you're on a budget or get poly mounts. Do the work yourself, its not hard.

Most shops have a policy that if they use customer supplied parts, there is NO warranty.

 

[KFRG]

Thanks for the reply. The radiator I can see being easy, it's just the PITA of dealing with the coolant and having to replace it. But what's involved in replacing the engine mounts? I only have a floorjack, a concrete driveway and a Haynes manual.
Also I have heard of people talking about performance water pumps, or just stick to the stock pump?

 

[stykthyn]

stock pump, for the mounts unbolt them and lift the motor with your floor jack under the oil pan. That should give you enough space to change your mount out.

 

[KFRG]

There's gonna be enough room to access them from above through the hood? What part of the oil pan should I use, I guess the back half. I don't see there being enough room up front with the sway bar and k-member in the way.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

First off, do NOT use the oil pan as a place to jack it up. You can easily dent or bend the metal ... and then you could have oil starvation issues or worse. My friend jacked it up at the crank pulley. Probably the most solid place to do so. No harm done there.

Stock water pump is good unless you are going big HP mods later. Stay away from Autozone replacement parts. Theres a reason it has a lifetime warranty.... they suck. Get one from Ford if they still have them, or get it from LRS. Better quality than Autozone crap. While your at it, you might as well replace all the hoses. If they are stock, and the radiator already took a dump, the hoses will be leaking soon after. They are probably dry rotted on the inside (especially the bypass hose on the pump).

 

[stykthyn]

where would you jack it up from then?

 

[srtthis]

id jack on the pan before i jacked on the crank pulley... nothing like sideloading the crank to mess up a bearing! id put a wood block on the jack between the fan and the pan

 

[Grn92LX]

Jack it from the oil pan and use a piece of wood to protect it. Do NOT jack it from the crank pulley. That has got to be one of the most dumb things i've ever read on the internet.

A new stock replacement pump from autozone or w/e is fine. Been using one on my 7,000 rpm 347 for 5 years no problems.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Idk Glx... accorrding to him, he said it won't hurt the engine and he has done it a few times with no problems. If that's a bad idea, then use the oil pan. I just don't like the thought of using the oil pan because of all the stories I've heard of crushed or dented pans, jacked oil pump pick up etc.

And Autozone parts just suck. If you MUST use them, buy a NEW pump, NOT a rebuilt unit. AZ has some of the WORST quality rebuilded parts I have ever seen. Alt bearings making grinding noises and faltering, water pump seals that prematurely leak. .. And damn, did I mention sensors that are repeatedly defefctive. Use AZ if you wish, not me though.

 

[KFRG]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm going to order the Fluidyne radiator on LRS, incase the shop can't order one. The engine mounts, it seems like it might be easier to let them order, since the mounts on LRS don't come with the bolts etc. I wish I had the time to do the work myself, but with work, and the fact the car is kept away from home, makes it hard.
Now the water pump I believe is original. How can I tell it's working properly? Should I just replace it anyway since I am getting a new rad? And if so, should I order the Ford one on LRS, or trust the shop will order a Ford pump and not try to bs me.

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 87397]

Every stinking repair manual I've ever read says to put a long block of wood on the jack and do it by the oil pan so that the block of wood spreads out the load. That being said, if you can find a better place to jack it up the go for it.

 

[KFRG]

Hey guys I wanna put in the order for these parts. Should I just order the pump for the hell of it since I believe it's original?

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Thanks for the rep fastfox. My bad on the crank jacking. I'll have show my friend this, see what he says. Probably just nod and say "oh... well I never had a problem doing it that way.. hey man it works " . Lol, he's a partial redneck. Maybe that's why the crank busted near #3 cylinder while he was taching it up to 6k while trying to race a Mitsu 3000 GT. He thinks the timing chain broke and got caught on the crank. I was with him when it happened. Front half of crank came out 3 inches and busted a chunk out of the timing chain cover. It was rather sad, because this was my 89GT that I once owned, and then sold to him.

Anyways. Sorry to hijack your thread KFTG. Go ahead and order that water pump from LRD. Might as well get it since you are replacing the rest of the stuff. If it look like stock, is all greasy and/or has corrosion near the gasket lines, then get a new one. How many miles on the car?

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Whow,, fastfox is evil. His Post count says 666

 

[KFRG]

Thanks Stang5.0, 60K on the car, pump dosent look too bad but I am assuming it's original. How do they hold up on these cars, the pump blades etc?
I'm going to order it anyway.