Best way to clean and strip underside?

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Nemesis67, May 6, 2007.

  1. Maybe. I'm lucky. I know the local Snap On dealer.
  2. Well that helps. You lucky dog. :p

  3. Great, now they make a James Bond flying needles of death to your b...oys tool.

    :lol: :rlaugh: :D :rolleyes:
  4. Pressure washer and soap is not going to do it. You need to get in there and get dirty. Putty knife works but takes time. Also, since you have a rotiserrie(sp?) I've heard people using a hand held torch and putty knife. It melts the undercoating and you can then strip it. I would imaging this would be a nasty mess. I did mine with a screw driver and hammer on my back for the undercarriage. It only took me about 3 months to do.
  5. It's supposed to be pretty low RPM. I think it's designed to quickly remove seam sealer and undercoating for new cars in a production auto body shop.

    I'll let you guys know how it works.
  6. I am in the process of applying a coat of Por 15 to my engine bay. Last night I just went to town and covered the front cross members and the frame rails where they come out to the bumper. I wish I could turn my car over to get at the underside, but I ain't got no rotisserie, so it's sandpaper, wire brush, elbow grease, and everything falling in my face for me.

    After last night I'm not sure how far I wanna go back with it :).

    The engine bay is getting done for sure, but I might pay someone to apply new undercoating to the stang. Although I say that and except for the front of the frame rails the old undercoating is still on there and working like a champ.
  7. I have sold a few of the Dynabrade verson of that, the Dynazip part #18255. Im sure that is who is making it for Snapon. All the wheels are direct Dynabrade part numbers. Any way the guys that have bought them say that they work great.
  8. Ooohhhh, let me tell you. It's great to roll this thing over and do whatever needs to be done with not a care in the world. Plus the quality of the work will be soooo much better. I'm telling you, you need one, not want one.
  9. Dude you're in Wichita. Um how bout I let you take the stang and redo the undercoating for me? :)
  10. :lol: Yeah, you go ahead and strip the car down to a rolling chassis and get it here and I'll go ahead and put it on the rotisserie and do your undercoating.
    Your better off putting it on a drive-on lift and doing the undercoating. Because your car is a driver now, right? I have access to a lift and that's what I would do if I were just doing undercoating.
  11. Nemesis67, since your in Wichita Falls and I am in fort worth, how about you let me rent your rotisserie when your done with it???? Cause I will be needing one in a couple of months....
  12. Hey be careful, my wife could hear you.

    No my car is in pieces right now. I'm in the process of painting it, so body parts are laying all over, rebuilding the engine, so engine parts are all over, and rebuilding the tranny, so gears are all over the place.

    My car's been all over the place for almost 2 years since I started my quick, cheap (it was neither of those things) paint job. I hope to slap it back together by the end of the month so I can take it to this little racing school thing in Albuquerque June 2th.

    It'd be easy to do the undercoat now while the engine and tranny are out. I'd have to do it in the driveway with the car on jackstands. That's as close to a lift as I've got. :)
  13. Sure, I don't have a problem with that. It would just be a pain to transport this thing, unless you have trailer. I don't know if it would bolt up to your 70 like it did to my 67, but if your willing to give it a try let me know the measurements off your car and I could compare it to mine. Primarily the distance between the bolt holes for the rear bumper and the distance between the frame rails in the front where the bumper mounts.
  14. The front frame mounts should be the same the rear bumper bolts holes I can get you a measurement later. Like I said I wont be needing one for a couple of months. Cool, I have no problem getting a trailer and besides it will help you recover some of the cost of building it. I will keep you in mind.
  15. Gotta love it when a plan comes together. :nice:
  16. just rolled mine over today- it is great to be able to walk up to the car and work on the bottom. Im going to start this week welding up on the bottom, installing the torque boxes and scraping all that crap off. I think mine was z-barted and undercoated at some point.
  17. There is floor adhesive remover you can buy from home depot - little messy but does a nice job on the undercoating.
  18. I am a production painter and have done some body work also. My shop has a werth tool just like this and it is sweet. You can use it to cleam seam sealer, take off double sided tape for moulding. The wires really dont fly off and you can adjust the speed anyways. It is well worth the money and anyone could use it more than once.
  19. ive found the easiest way to strip the undercoating,tar etc off the bottom or floor is get a torch, heat up the area about a sq foot at a time for a couple seconds, then it scrapes right off with almost no effort. Did my old race car like that and my mustang- works very well.