Best Wideband O2 location

[toyman]

I'm leaning towards placing the WB on the driver side on the assumption that #8 cylinder tends to run lean with the stock lower intake. Is this correct? The install instructions only state that it should be located before the cats and in a vertical position between 10 - 2 o'clock.

Any other advice?

 

[Stanger007]

Usually it is #6 and #7 where you will lose a head gasket first (fuel crossover is on front and back or rails) - driver's side will be the leanest regardless, good call on that.

Wes

 

[95BlueStallion]

You cant put those in the stock location? Ive never used them, and know nothing about them, but how does the verticle position effect their readings?

 

[final5-0]

Do it with a method that allows you the most options

Get a bung done on both sides

Get a plug for each bung

Then you can read either side or neither side

Most importantly ... You don't disturb the OEM system in any way

Grady

 

[Stanger007]

The sensor on my LC-1 went out not long ago (LSU-4 sensor) so in talking with Innovate to troubleshoot it, I found out from the tech that he had seen the sensors last "between 300 and 30,000 miles". I pulled the LSU-4 sensor off my PLX m300 and it worked fine.

So that being said, I would tend to want to run the factory narrowbands in tandem and use the wideband as a 3rd bung. When it goes out, it is a bit harder and more expensive to find than a factory O2.

There is also the speed at which the widebands update vs that of a narrowband, the wideband being supposedly more sluggish at this - take that with a grain, I have no proof other than hearing it from several reputable people that I trust on those matters.

For doing local tuning I am going to rig up my PLX m300 to accept a factory style O2 plug so I can just unscrew their factory O2 and screw in the wideband and have it do double duty as narrowband and wideband TEMPORARILY. This will be used once the closed loop tune is nailed down on their factory hardware.

Food for thought.

Wes

 

[toyman]

You cant put those in the stock location? Ive never used them, and know nothing about them, but how does the verticle position effect their readings?

Being in a vertical position does not have any affect on the readings. However, being in a vertical position is needed to prevent cracking of the sensor ceramic element and protect sensor against water condensation.

 

[toyman]

The sensor on my LC-1 went out not long ago (LSU-4 sensor) so in talking with Innovate to troubleshoot it, I found out from the tech that he had seen the sensors last "between 300 and 30,000 miles". I pulled the LSU-4 sensor off my PLX m300 and it worked fine.

So that being said, I would tend to want to run the factory narrowbands in tandem and use the wideband as a 3rd bung. When it goes out, it is a bit harder and more expensive to find than a factory O2.

There is also the speed at which the widebands update vs that of a narrowband, the wideband being supposedly more sluggish at this - take that with a grain, I have no proof other than hearing it from several reputable people that I trust on those matters.

For doing local tuning I am going to rig up my PLX m300 to accept a factory style O2 plug so I can just unscrew their factory O2 and screw in the wideband and have it do double duty as narrowband and wideband TEMPORARILY. This will be used once the closed loop tune is nailed down on their factory hardware.

Food for thought.

Wes

The WB is a Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband A/F ratio meter and datalogging system

Additionally, I expect to install the AEM EMS once I've satisfied myself that I will be able to make the necessary program changes

It was never my intention to replace the factory NB sensors but as noted to install a third bung for the WB

 

[Stanger007]

Do some research on the actual wideband sensor they use - I betcha it is the LSU series of sensors.

Wes

 

[toyman]

Do some research on the actual wideband sensor they use - I betcha it is the LSU series of sensors.

Wes

It's a Bosch LSU.

Was there something I missed in your earlier reply about LSU sensors?

 

[95cobraguy]

this is the wideband i bought not too long ago, once the weather warms up i'll pull out my pro-chamber and weld in the bungs. i'm gonna put them right behind where the pro-chamber bolts to the headers, at the 1-2 o'clock position.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Comp+Cams/834738/10002/-1/10625

 

[Stanger007]

It's a Bosch LSU.

Was there something I missed in your earlier reply about LSU sensors?

Nope you're good. Might consider taking it out when not in use and capping the hole if the car sees a lot of miles... I've found quite a few other people that say the LSU-4 sensor tends to go out around 10-15k miles.

The best price I found when I rebought the sensor was around $70 shipped from Summit.

Wes

 

[toyman]

Nope you're good. Might consider taking it out when not in use and capping the hole if the car sees a lot of miles... I've found quite a few other people that say the LSU-4 sensor tends to go out around 10-15k miles.

The best price I found when I rebought the sensor was around $70 shipped from Summit.

Wes

Actually I was planning on leaving them in and wired into the AEM EMS.