I'm sure this has been covered multiple times but the topic always end up having so many parts to add I can't keep track. I just picked up a 93 lx triple white basically bone stock. Still had the air silencer on it. I know foxes don't have the best ride but this is just god awful. I go over an inch drop in the road and it just drops hard and sounds like a tackle box going over rail road tracks. Barely any bounce. I'm just curious if I were to add just kyb (budget friendly) struts and shocks and a mm full length sub frame connectors would I notice a decent gain in ride quality?
Better Fox Ride?
- Thread starter xram67
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For comfort, make sure it has stock springs and get Monroe sensatrack type shocks. Subframe connectors will make it feel more solid. As it sounds stock, you probably have shot shocks and that surprisingly can make it ride rougher. Next check out suspension bushings.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
20+ year old springs are probably sagging and/or worn. Isolators and shocks too. If you want to keep a smooth ride, go with some quality replacement shocks and springs along with new poly isolators. Also, check all of the other suspension items like ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, sway bar links.
If he wants a quality ride, he should avoid anything with poly or performance in the name. Compliance is the game here. Good call on the isolators.
The last pair of KYB struts that I got were put on our mini van. And they made it a rough riding, jarring, truck like ride. That is why I suggested shocks that ride smooth in the mid range and have control over the big bumps. If you want handling instead of ride, then I can suggest something else.
On your budget, just inspect the springs and their isolators. If they have sagged a little, so what? Inspect all control arm bushings and parts before replacing them. But the front sway bar bushings are cheap to replace while they are doing the shocks, struts and are inspecting the rest. And they are likely to cause all kind of noises over bumps if they are worn out or missing.
On your budget, just inspect the springs and their isolators. If they have sagged a little, so what? Inspect all control arm bushings and parts before replacing them. But the front sway bar bushings are cheap to replace while they are doing the shocks, struts and are inspecting the rest. And they are likely to cause all kind of noises over bumps if they are worn out or missing.
stangr5oh
Active Member
Good advice, if you want ride quality, then the SensaTracs are your best bet and priced cheap in most auto stores. But as mentioned before, check your swaybar bushings, your tierod ends, and balljoints also. A visual check can tell alot, if you have your original jack or any jack capable of lifting your front end one side at a time, then you can do the jerk and pull method to see if you have balljoint and tierod issues yourself to save a few bucks and to give yourself knowledge also in case a mechanic wants to throw the book at you for what is wrong and end up paying for things not needed. And if the shocks are to be replaced, make sure the isolators are in good shape. When doing the jerk and pull method to isolate a possible balljoint or tierod or hub bearings is to jack the front tire on each side individually and put your hands on the tire first at 12 and 6 o'clock, pull and push on the tire like in rocking motion (push with your top hand and pull with your lower hand back and forth) to feel if there is excess play, then do the same by putting your hands at 3 and 6 o'clock and repeat the process. 12-6 will show if you have a bad balljoint, control arm bushings and possibly a hub bearing, 9 and 3 o'clock will help feel if you have a bad tierod(s) and control arm bushings.
One other thing to help save you some money. If you are going to get these items fixed, in most cases it is cheaper for you to buy them ahead of your mechanic visit, take the parts in with you and ask that they be installed. That way you are only paying for labor and not there (supposedly) great costs on parts. I do not know how many times I have seen people pay more for a part that the mechanic located vs you shopping around and getting them yourself. Also, anytime a mechanic wants to identify a problem needing to be fixed, ask the mechanic to show you and point to where they are talking about so you can visually see for yourself what looks bad or not and if they were identified as bad, ask him how he came to that conclusion and what means he used to identify they are bad. If what he or she says sounds like bullsh*t then it usually is. Believe me it helps in reducing your costs if you are in money saving mode and in a pinch.
So key things to look over once again, tierod ends. balljoints, swaybar bushings, control arm bushings, shocks, isolators, hub bearings.
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Good inspection advice.
But I would be careful before buying stock type parts. Most shops make a mark up on the parts they sell. Not usually big, but enough to miss. The only time I have not had dirty looks or a "no way" answer is for performance and specialty parts not easily available locally. Those they are more happy to let you order.
But I would be careful before buying stock type parts. Most shops make a mark up on the parts they sell. Not usually big, but enough to miss. The only time I have not had dirty looks or a "no way" answer is for performance and specialty parts not easily available locally. Those they are more happy to let you order.
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
The problem here is that the quality aftermarket parts will increase NVH. Foxes just aren't great for ride quality. You can absolutely make it corner better, or launch better out of the hole... but making it ride better than stock is complicated. (in my opinion, not attainable)
And to that, the one characteristic of a fox body that most people overlook that really takes just about no mechanical aptitude to fix is all of the loose, worn or broken trim pieces that rattle around everytime you hit a bump. The noise the interior makes as a result of it's age just increases the sensation of a bone jarring pothole dive IMO.
Subs are pretty much a requirement on these cars, regardless of ride quality or handling if you don't have them it will pretty much loosen up the entire car over time.
I'd go as far as saying they are the #1 most important thing to do to a fox.
Isolators are a must, the energy suspension ones work good.
Not a fan of kyb. I like koni for shocks, bilsteins are ok too (although i prefer adjustable). You won't ever regret buying quality shocks instead of budget shocks.
Mike is also right, it may not all be in the suspension, when you hit a bump and it sounds and feels like the front end or interior is coming apart, it may just be old loose parts rattling around. Any car that rattles will always feel like it rides bad.
You probably need new springs too, but you gotta decide where you want to go with the car. I certainly don't believe in putting stock springs back in one of these cars.
Maybe contact MM and see if they have some H&R's to meet your needs.
I'd go as far as saying they are the #1 most important thing to do to a fox.
Isolators are a must, the energy suspension ones work good.
Not a fan of kyb. I like koni for shocks, bilsteins are ok too (although i prefer adjustable). You won't ever regret buying quality shocks instead of budget shocks.
Mike is also right, it may not all be in the suspension, when you hit a bump and it sounds and feels like the front end or interior is coming apart, it may just be old loose parts rattling around. Any car that rattles will always feel like it rides bad.
You probably need new springs too, but you gotta decide where you want to go with the car. I certainly don't believe in putting stock springs back in one of these cars.
Maybe contact MM and see if they have some H&R's to meet your needs.
Thanks for all the replys guys. Originally it was going to be a daily driver buy we've decided to just take it out on occasions and get another car. I'll just put some new shocks and struts and a sub frame connector on and call it good. It's a fun thing to drive every now in then but just too rough for daily driving
I have em on a 95, you'll be good with them.
PS: there's a dude posting in the 94/95 tech that has a "selfie" as his avatar. Oh brother
Bet you anything if the car is original and rides like a cement truck you've got one or more broken coil springs in the front. Had the same issue with mine. Took a peek underneath and couldn't see the problem. Pulled the front springs and found on on each side broke off inside the isolator.
Put new stock springs in the front end, with about 1/2 a loop cut off (to match the ride height of the 20-year-old rear springs), with Tokico HP's all the way round and the car has never ridden better. Still a little jarring on the big stuff, but I blame what on the 17" wheel and tire package.
Put new stock springs in the front end, with about 1/2 a loop cut off (to match the ride height of the 20-year-old rear springs), with Tokico HP's all the way round and the car has never ridden better. Still a little jarring on the big stuff, but I blame what on the 17" wheel and tire package.
Reading the description again, I wonder if there are aftermarket springs under there. It seems like a broken spring would make the car sit oddly. Full height stock springs are never that harsh. TRW should be able to provide quality stock speck springs. Leave them full height for the best ride.
I still wonder about the sway bar to body bushings and end links causing a lot of noise.
Yes, tightening up the trim panels should be a part of every other oil change with Fox body cars.
I think Tokico struts will be too much performance for this ride. I would love some, but I do not want it to ride like a Lincoln.
What psi are you running in the tires? Are you using Ford's specs or the maximum listed on the tires? That will even make a difference.
I still wonder about the sway bar to body bushings and end links causing a lot of noise.
Yes, tightening up the trim panels should be a part of every other oil change with Fox body cars.
I think Tokico struts will be too much performance for this ride. I would love some, but I do not want it to ride like a Lincoln.
What psi are you running in the tires? Are you using Ford's specs or the maximum listed on the tires? That will even make a difference.
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