Build Thread Bird_dog0347's Frankenstang, sure is nice of us to build a car around the fuel filler door
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Not sure exactly what pic you're wanting, but if you can be more specific I can hook you up! The spacer that comes with the kit is installed behind the rotor so I didn't take a pic of it but I can if you like. Then I've got a 1" spacer that will go on the outside of the rotor as my front wheels have way too much backspacing to fit without it, such is the life of an IRS swap guy who doesn't spend a ton on wheels *yet*...
Hey man, I am really scratching my head here. Can't get the dust seals out of the calipers. Tried finding a video but all the ones on YT are of different style Brembos and not the same seals. How did you get yours apart?
I just used blue painters tape over the dust seals and pistons, as well as the bleed screws. I used the VHT high temp red caliper paint then went back over it with clear.
If you go back one page and look at post 312 you'll see the inserts already installed in the calipers, and you can see how they are offset from center.
Not a lot has changed this week, been slammed with work and other stress in my life this week. I ordered a pressurized bleeder system which will help me get it all bled up. I also got a bottle of wheel cleaner spray which really helped me get all the crap off my wheels and they will look good once it's all back together. If we go to the lake for the weekend I won't get crap done, but if we don't maybe I can get fender liners cleaned up as well.
Well, we just got back from the lake and the only thing car related was the delivery of my Motive pressure bleeder. I'll let you guys know how I like it.
So I have been lazy for a while, busy working and family stuff being stuck home most of the time with kids and what not... but it's "finished" and I test drove it last night. Overall I can't really say how much better I like it than the Cobra setup other than the looks for sure. The pedal is certainly softer but was too hard on the Cobra setup as I have the GT master cylinder and this time I have the 43mm rears instead of the 38mm that was on there before. It feels more factory like with the pedal hardness but I'm pretty sure I need to bleed them more as pumping it seems to help it grab better.
When I bled them before driving it I did multiple rounds starting passenger back, driver back, passenger front, driver front using my Motive pressure bleeder and did so until I saw no bubbles at all from any caliper. That said, I think I need to try it the old fashioned way of person in car pumping a few times then hold while I release the bleed screw.
When I bled them before driving it I did multiple rounds starting passenger back, driver back, passenger front, driver front using my Motive pressure bleeder and did so until I saw no bubbles at all from any caliper. That said, I think I need to try it the old fashioned way of person in car pumping a few times then hold while I release the bleed screw.
I start a new project in Denton later this year. Maybe I'll get the car going before 2021 and drive it up... LOL
Ok, sooo... I finished the brakes last year and drove the car a couple of times and really nothing since. To be fair though, I didn't really go much of anywhere other than the lake a lot last year and had no reason to say drive it to work or anything. Now I kinda need something to do, a new project of sorts.
The car seems to have an exhaust leak now on the driver's side header, the farthest back bolt looked like it was not all the way in but when I tried to tighten it it seems cross threaded.
I don't remember it being a problem when I installed them, but that was years ago soooo... My heads are TFS 170's, can you still use a helicoil with aluminum heads? Will I be able to repair it with the head on or do I need to pull it to properly repair the threads? If I have to pull it, maybe I do that and repair them then sell them and get 11R heads with a new custom cam. Then we are in a spiral of "while I'm in here".
Also, I'm seriously considering starting on some body work. I know this thing is wavy as the ocean and I also know there are some bad spots hiding under the absolutely terrible paint. I am considering stripping the paint off, at least a panel at a time to see what's under there and if it's worth repairing or better off replacing.
Basically I have a running and driving coupe with a great drive train (other than exhaust leak) and interior but it needs paint/body bad. I know for sure I won't take less than $10-12k for it as it sits, but if I put another $10-15k in paint and body I don't think I'd get that back, unless I sit on it for another 10 years. And if I do that, I really would want to change it from Red to Blue, which means to do it right tearing it all the way down to do the engine bay and all. I dunno, I need to decide if I am just going to start plugging away at it, go full retard with it, or sell it.
The car seems to have an exhaust leak now on the driver's side header, the farthest back bolt looked like it was not all the way in but when I tried to tighten it it seems cross threaded.
I don't remember it being a problem when I installed them, but that was years ago soooo... My heads are TFS 170's, can you still use a helicoil with aluminum heads? Will I be able to repair it with the head on or do I need to pull it to properly repair the threads? If I have to pull it, maybe I do that and repair them then sell them and get 11R heads with a new custom cam. Then we are in a spiral of "while I'm in here".Also, I'm seriously considering starting on some body work. I know this thing is wavy as the ocean and I also know there are some bad spots hiding under the absolutely terrible paint. I am considering stripping the paint off, at least a panel at a time to see what's under there and if it's worth repairing or better off replacing.
Basically I have a running and driving coupe with a great drive train (other than exhaust leak) and interior but it needs paint/body bad. I know for sure I won't take less than $10-12k for it as it sits, but if I put another $10-15k in paint and body I don't think I'd get that back, unless I sit on it for another 10 years. And if I do that, I really would want to change it from Red to Blue, which means to do it right tearing it all the way down to do the engine bay and all. I dunno, I need to decide if I am just going to start plugging away at it, go full retard with it, or sell it.
Ok, sooo... I finished the brakes last year and drove the car a couple of times and really nothing since. To be fair though, I didn't really go much of anywhere other than the lake a lot last year and had no reason to say drive it to work or anything. Now I kinda need something to do, a new project of sorts.
The car seems to have an exhaust leak now on the driver's side header, the farthest back bolt looked like it was not all the way in but when I tried to tighten it it seems cross threaded.
Also, I'm seriously considering starting on some body work. I know this thing is wavy as the ocean and I also know there are some bad spots hiding under the absolutely terrible paint. I am considering stripping the paint off, at least a panel at a time to see what's under there and if it's worth repairing or better off replacing.
Basically I have a running and driving coupe with a great drive train (other than exhaust leak) and interior but it needs paint/body bad. I know for sure I won't take less than $10-12k for it as it sits, but if I put another $10-15k in paint and body I don't think I'd get that back, unless I sit on it for another 10 years. And if I do that, I really would want to change it from Red to Blue, which means to do it right tearing it all the way down to do the engine bay and all. I dunno, I need to decide if I am just going to start plugging away at it, go full retard with it, or sell it.
Yes, you can helicoil that head if you need to but being where it is, you are gonna be better off pulling the head. I feel ya on the mission creep or spiral effect.
I don't think paint/body will run you as much as you think. I have a loose quote on car #2 for $5k-7.5k and I might be horse trading pewpewpews for the work. And this guy does AMAZING work....mostly high end racecars.
You know that my vote is go full retard.
Yeah, I'm not going to spoil any details yet, but operation full retard is a go... at least on the paint and body. Although what I'm shooting for will be more than your quote.
I always knew the paint and body were crap, but didn't know how bad until I started digging... it's beyond my skill level to fix it, I'm no @95steedamustang so I pulled the rip cord and stopped before I found or made it worse. Really the car needs to go down to bare metal and get fixed right, and I just can't do that.
This was clearly some bondo cracking under the paint...
So here's what I found when I sanded it down. Some idiot cut a right angle in a dent instead of pulling it, then closed it up with Bondo. Also the cowl has some damage, among other crap.
This was clearly some bondo cracking under the paint...
So here's what I found when I sanded it down. Some idiot cut a right angle in a dent instead of pulling it, then closed it up with Bondo. Also the cowl has some damage, among other crap.
Good decision to kick it down the road. Now you’ve cleared the way to get a badass car in its place.
