Build Thread Bird_dog0347's Frankenstang, sure is nice of us to build a car around the fuel filler door

Isn't that connection setup to only go on one way? It only has one flat spot for the bolt.

I'm pretty sure this is correct. If I remember correct it can only go one way because of the flat spot for the bolt. Maybe it is possible to get it to turn one or two teeth in either direction and the bolt will still go through, not sure?
 
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I'm pretty sure this is correct. If I remember correct it can only go one way because of the flat spot for the bolt. Maybe it is possible to get it to turn one or two teeth in either direction and the bolt will still go through, not sure?

Yes, the steering rack to steering shaft connection is NOT splined all the way around. It has a flat spot to alignment of the two together.
 
The alignment is set. All you need to do is mark the tie rod ends with a line on the threaded part and the outer end. Loosen the nut and count the turns. The left tie rod needs to be turned in amd the right one turned out. Turn them a couple full turns each until the steering wheel centers. If you turn them the same amount the total toe will not change.
 
Working on replacing the heater core... this was fun. I got the old one out and new one in last night, just have to try to finish buttoning it all back up tonight if I can get free time in the garage.

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I was not able to finish yesterday as it was my kids 12th birthday so I had family stuff. I did make some progress, just have to hook up the hoses and top off the fluids then start it up and check everything before I finish buttoning up the interior. I also got a cupholder section for the console so I'm looking forward to getting that installed too.

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Well it's got working heat, no leaks, and a full coolant system again. All that is left is to put the console, radio, steering trim, and glove box back on it and clean everything up. All in all, not a terrible job to replace the core. The hardest part by far was trying to get the dash back up into position by myself and get screws started, you definately want a friend for that part. If I had a whole day straight to do it without interruption I think I could have finished in 3-5 hours total pretty easily being my first time and I was careful to bag and label every screw/nut.
 
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Drove it to a meet last night with some local fox guys, I learned leaving the neighborhood that my speedo cable must have pulled out of the back of the cluster as it was no longer functioning, and my turn signals don't work so I'm guessing the orange wire pulled out of the hazzard switch since that still works. All good other than that, I'll get those issues fixed up today hopefully... it's my youngest son's b-day today so we will see.
 
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Have not made much progress on this in the last few weeks cause I've had other things to do and other expenses that took away from fox funds. I had to replace all 4 tires on the daily so that cost me a grand... tires are getting stupid expensive.

I got the speedo cable replaced as well as went ahead and replaced both the hazard and headlight switches since the clips were broken off, now they actually stay in the bezel and I have a working speedo. It's about time to replace the battery though as it's the same one I got in the car when I bought it back in 2012 and today it started sounding pretty weak. I usually keep it on a tender, but I can't complain about an 8 year old battery.

I've got most of the parts for a full brake swap out which I will detail here, just waiting on my bushing kit to come in and then it'll be good to go.
 
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Have not made much progress on this in the last few weeks cause I've had other things to do and other expenses that took away from fox funds. I had to replace all 4 tires on the daily so that cost me a grand... tires are getting stupid expensive.

I got the speedo cable replaced as well as went ahead and replaced both the hazard and headlight switches since the clips were broken off, now they actually stay in the bezel and I have a working speedo. It's about time to replace the battery though as it's the same one I got in the car when I bought it back in 2012 and today it started sounding pretty weak. I usually keep it on a tender, but I can't complain about an 8 year old battery.

I've got most of the parts for a full brake swap out which I will detail here, just waiting on my bushing kit to come in and then it'll be good to go.
I know I keep saying it, but I'm going to drive my fox up soon, especially since the auto is gone. I wanna come see your IRS and how it fits, never seen one in person.
 
Got back to working on the car a bit yesterday and today. The car is getting the ATS Brembo fronts, 43mm rears, power stop pads and rotors. I've got all the calipers painted now, with the stickers on the fronts under some clear coat. I'm using the VHT Caliper paint so hopefully it holds up well. Next step is to get the car in the air and pull the rear caliper brackets so I can clean them up and paint them since they are all rusty but I need the brackets for the IRS/Cobra brakes. Then I will also need to pull the fronts then get to installing and bleeding them.

I will also need to remember while it's on jack stands to pull the steering shaft off the rack to try to recenter my steering wheel after I replaced it.

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The ATS calipers are cheaper than the Cobra remans, right?

dunno, haven't priced the Cobra's lately... The ATS are about $125ish per side unloaded, then require either the bushing kit I got at like $175 or actually drill and permanently modify the SN95 spindles. Both use the Cobra rotors so that's a wash, and I'd assume the pads are around the same cost but more surface area on the ATS ones.
 
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dunno, haven't priced the Cobra's lately... The ATS are about $125ish per side unloaded, then require either the bushing kit I got at like $175 or actually drill and permanently modify the SN95 spindles. Both use the Cobra rotors so that's a wash, and I'd assume the pads are around the same cost but more surface area on the ATS ones.
Are the offset bushing inserts all that are needed besides calipers, brackets, and pads?

I'm thinking this, along with the 43mm piston rear calipers, may be a worthwhile upgrade on my '95. I definitely don't want to be modifying spindles.
 
Assuming you already have the SN95 spindles on there and rear disk, yes. You could do it with just the calipers, mount kit, and front pads on the cheap. I went the extra step and got new rotors and pads all around as well as front stainless MM lines as I already had the rear MM lines from my IRS swap.

From Chris at S&S Engineering I bought the bushing kit which comes with the offset bushings, 12mm bolts, and spacers to go behind the rotor that center it between the pads. If you remove material from the caliper you don't need the spacers, up to you. The Kit was $175 shipped.

I got my Brembo stickers and Caliper paint from Amazon. So basically I'll be all in it for about a little less than $900 front and rear, and will have my old setup to sell to offset the cost, the only thing missing on it will be rear caliper cobra brackets and rear lines. But it will have rotors and pads with less than 1500 miles on the whole thing in great shape, the only real issue is my front calipers aren't a matching set... drivers side is Cobra lettering and passenger side is Bear.

From LMR I bought.

MM-MMBK8F87-93 MUSTANG FRONT STAINLESS
110$95.99


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1993 FORD TAURUS 3.8L V6
Brake & Wheel Hub : Caliper

DCARDONE 18B4537 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Remanufactured; Includes Bracket Info

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DCARDONE 18B4536 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Remanufactured; Includes Bracket Info

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2003 FORD MUSTANG 4.6L V8 Supercharged
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BPOWER STOP Z26627A {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Z26 Street Warrior; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic; Includes Hardware Info

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Well I've gotten all 4 calipers and rotors mounted and setup with all new hardware/pads/rotors. Next up will be to disconnect all 4 of the old calipers and hook up the lines to the new ones then bleed them. In order to keep the fluid in the system and avoid getting any more air in there than I have to I left the 4 old ones on till I got to this point. I will also be swapping out the front brake lines with braided, the rears already are from when I installed the IRS.

My front wheels are also NASTY dirty and oily from when my front main seal started leaking and got a bit of oil flung on them. So getting them all clean will have to be done before it goes back together, and maybe get the wheel liners cleaned up a bit too, although at normal ride height you can't see in there. I did however confirm first that the wheel fits with no interference but I was pretty sure since I use an 18" wheel with a 1" spacer behind it I'd be ok.


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