Blew my motor, new MMR 750 build in progress

ace305

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Dec 28, 2011
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I blew my Kenne Bell Bullitt. I am currently pulling the motor. I ordered a MMR 750 rotating assembly with MMR custom cams. Block is going to Diamond Racing in Hammond La for the machine work. I am keeping the heads stock but I am rebuilding them my self. This is my first build and looking forward to it. I have read George Reid 4.6 rebuild book at least 12 times so far. The only thing that scares me a little is the getting the timing correct. I am only looking for about 500 HP. I have the suspension and brakes completed for track days at the NOLA Motorsports Park witch has a INDY track.

Any advice with the build is greatly appreciated.

Eric
 
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Thatsweetstang

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As long as you have cylinder 1 at top dead center it’s easy. I just did it about 2 weeks ago on a 5.4 sohc. Just take pics and post if your unsure, a lot of people here can help you. The chain has alignment marks, easiest way is of course start at the crank, follow the non tensioned guide to the cam, move the cam so it lines up with the timing marks on the chain, then route the chain under the tensioned guide. As long as alignment mark on crank gear and chain are lined up and alignment marks on cam gear and chain are lined up you’re golden!
 

ace305

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Dec 28, 2011
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As long as you have cylinder 1 at top dead center it’s easy. I just did it about 2 weeks ago on a 5.4 sohc. Just take pics and post if your unsure, a lot of people here can help you. The chain has alignment marks, easiest way is of course start at the crank, follow the non tensioned guide to the cam, move the cam so it lines up with the timing marks on the chain, then route the chain under the tensioned guide. As long as alignment mark on crank gear and chain are lined up and alignment marks on cam gear and chain are lined up you’re golden!
awesome thanks. I will set the cam close to 11 and 12 respectively but are they easy to move by hand if I need to make an adjustment to line the chain link and cam gear?
 

Thatsweetstang

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You just get the cams close. There should be little to no play/slack on the chain on the non tensioned guide. Ultimately no pics of the cams is for sure where they go. It’s all determined on the chains alignment marks. If The chain loose on the non tensioned side then you must move the cam to get the slack away. Then you can pull the pin out of the tensioner and that’ll remove the slack on the tensioned side guide. Make sense?
 

Thatsweetstang

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The crank gear and chain on the crank will never move and don’t let let move. Once it’s on top dead center #1 never move the crank again.
 

ace305

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Dec 28, 2011
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You just get the cams close. There should be little to no play/slack on the chain on the non tensioned guide. Ultimately no pics of the cams is for sure where they go. It’s all determined on the chains alignment marks. If The chain loose on the non tensioned side then you must move the cam to get the slack away. Then you can pull the pin out of the tensioner and that’ll remove the slack on the tensioned side guide. Make sense?
ok I may have worded it wrong, can you turn the cam by hand to make the adjustments or do I need a special tool? thanks buddy
 

Thatsweetstang

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Oh!! I think it’s at 19mm or 18mm socket for some cam gears, and the pressed on cam gears is a 3/8’s extension to move them.
 

ace305

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on the head bolts, do you recommend using a torque angle gauge, or mark the bolts and determine angle by lines drawn on head bolt ? the reviews are terrable on the angle gauge.
 

Thatsweetstang

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I have the snap on torque/angle 1/2inch, I use it specifically for head bolts and have been for 4 years now. You just can’t go cheap on something like that. But there is nothing wrong with marking the bolt or getting an angle gauge which is around $40 from snap on. As for which is more accurate... nothing beats physically marking, watching and measuring the 90degree turn.
 

ace305

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Dec 28, 2011
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I have the snap on torque/angle 1/2inch, I use it specifically for head bolts and have been for 4 years now. You just can’t go cheap on something like that. But there is nothing wrong with marking the bolt or getting an angle gauge which is around $40 from snap on. As for which is more accurate... nothing beats physically marking, watching and measuring the 90degree turn.
thank you. as for the head bolt steps, there are 6 steps to tightening them down. Do you complete each step on all bolts or complete all steps on each bolt before moving on to the next bolt.
 

Thatsweetstang

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1step at a time in the torque sequence. So if mmr short block has 6 steps you have a lot or torquing and angling to do lol. Your first perception was correct. Just make sure you have their instructions. The normal engines only have 3 steps, torque every bolt, angle every bolt, and angle every bolt again.
 

ace305

Active Member
Dec 28, 2011
171
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1step at a time in the torque sequence. So if mmr short block has 6 steps you have a lot or torquing and angling to do lol. Your first perception was correct. Just make sure you have their instructions. The normal engines only have 3 steps, torque every bolt, angle every bolt, and angle every bolt again.
ok, is this correct?

Work from the center out on the torque-to-yield cylinder head bolts using a 13-mm socket. The Modular engine has long head bolts that reach deep into the block to prevent deck distortion. Lubricate bolt threads with engine oil, torque them to 30 ft-lbs, then add 90 degrees using a torque-angle gauge. Loosen all head bolts a minimum of one full turn. Torque them again to 30 ft-lbs and add 90 degrees. Then, add another 90 degrees.

This is from George Reid engine build book.
how-to-rebuild-4-6-5-4-liter-ford-engines-5.jpg
 

Thatsweetstang

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I didn’t do the loosen them and re-tighten. But I used all data for my information. I would an engine builder would know more than I do though so I would use that unless someone else has any input
 
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