blue smoke

[notny41]

Well, flushed the radiator tonight and after the Prestone Flush stuff, I probably flushed it with plain water about 5 times before it ran out looking something like water.

Anyway, while I had the car idling it seemed like there was drops of watery stuff spitting out the tailpipes. I figured that is maybe somewhat normal. Please tell me if that is not normal. But I also noticed some blue smoke come out just after I started the engine.

This would indicate burning oil right?

Now, I did just top off the oil the other day and could have possibly overfilled it slightly. Would that cause some blue smoke?

If it is the case that I am simply burning oil, what is the cause of this and what does it take to fix it?

Thanks - P

 

[ddonaca351]

The h2o at startup is normal as the heat cooks all the condensation and moister vapor out of the exhaust system... more the longer its sat, if its cold out, the humidity, etc...

The initial puff of smoke at startup sounds like worn valve guides, when you shut the motor off oil leaks down and pools on the back side of the exhaust valve (or into the chamber) and when you start it, it burns off.
One way to help verify this is have someone you trust follow you and look for a puff when you shift, and when you decelerate... this is usually valveguides. (common, dont freak)

If it smokes under acceleration or all the time, this is usually rings. (more expensive, but not panic mode)

Either way its probably not a life-death thing, you could go for years of occasional driving and live with either one, as long as it doesnt get bad (oh trust me youll KNOW when it gets bad).

Just start putting away a few bucks for a future rebuild.
Like 4-500 for complete budget job.
1000 for a good complete budget job.
2000 for a decent true "rebuild", cast parts, like it was from the factory basically.
5000 for a good performance build.
Now these are just a basic guide for what you can expect to pay... it will varry ALOT from here to there, or depending on what you buy new, what you reuse, if you know someone, etc...
The bigest savings will be how much you can/are willing to do yourself. But be REALISTIC about your ability and knowledge.
If you do decide to get the work done, ask around and find someone who is known for good work at a fair price. DO NOT (imho) trust joe blows cousin who used to know so and so... you will be sorry in the long run. (again just my .02)

Best of luck.
Dave-

 

[notny41]

Thanks Dave.

That makes me feel better. I'll keep an eye on the situation.

I was driving it last weekend (see Minnesota Mustangs post) and went around cloverleaf and I heard, "tickety tick tick tick" and the oil light came on. It was back to normal after the hard turn so I pulled in to a gas station and threw in a quart of oil. It read 2 quarts low after I put the one in so I'm guessing it must be burning it. I'll be more conscious of checking the oil from time to time from now on. But I think when I added oil at home I may have overfilled it a little.

 

[ddonaca351]

If you do decide to do a rebuild, I have had good luck with Summit racing for yeeeaarrrssssss. 1-800-230-3030 When you have the phone memorized thats a bad sign...
Or summitracing.com

Jegs and PAW also have good prices, but I have not dealt with them much.

When you pull the motor, you can have a local automotive machine shop inspect the parts after tear down, and they can let you know if you can reuse the crank and rods.
If you can this will save a couple hundred bucks.

Either way you can get a rebuild kit with whatever you need: pistons, pins, gaskets, rings, soft plugs, oil pump, rods, crank, etc...
Then all you need to do is take all the moving parts to the machine shop, have the machining done, and you can assemble it yourself, or have them do it for added cost.

You can (imho) expect to pay *about* 1000 for all the machine work on the motor. (tank, mag, b&h with t.p., new valve guides, 3angle vj, etc..)
Then about 3-900 for the rebuild kit depending on what all you need, and a few bucks for misc like a cam/manifold package. (imho I like edelbrocks performer rpm c/m but I wouldnt run one of their carbs if you paid me too...)


If thats too rich for your blood, you can re-ring and put new bearings and gasket, timing chain, oil / water pumps in for about 500 total, BUT .... BUT .... this is NOT the right way to rebuild a motor, just a band-aide to get you by a little longer. (but it is an option if need-be)

Anyhow, either way we can throw free advice at ya whatever you decide.


Dave-