brake conversion

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by vobraman, Dec 17, 2003.

  1. I badly need to do a disc conversion on the front. Have a 67 Coupe with manual brakes. I have been looking at stainles steel kit. Do I have to stay with manual or can I switch to power ? Is there a big advantage with power over manual ? Do I have to change my current brake pedal? The car is set up for street and will be running in the 11's. I will post some pics next week.

    Any help is welcome
  2. Yes you can switch to power if you want too you just need to add a power booster and order the correct parts for it, IIRC the push rod changes on power but the pedal bracket itself stays the same...I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong. However, are you sure you want to switch to power? If you are running an 11 sec car will you have enough vacuum to support power brakes?

    I run SSBC manual discs in the front and rear of my 65 and the stopping power is awesome. And I have an extra heavy cleveland to make stopping more fun.

  3. if i can run with manual then thats is what I want. Do not want to spend more $ than needed
  4. Well then you have your try this on for size...have you looked at Baer? They make some very nice braking kits are have a higher performance reputation than the SSBC....I chose the SSBC for my ride becuase I had I high familiarity with their product and knew just how easy it was to install the disc brakes (only a few hours) and at the time I knew nothing about the Baer products...if I had it to do over again, I would prob by the Baers.....they do cost a little more though.

  5. I will check there web site and see what they have to offer.
  6. Took three months to get my 13" fronts from Baer...just "baer" that in mind. ;)
  7. Although the Baer brakes look awesome, there is some arguements out there with regard to Baer and other cross drilled systems.

    Cross drilling was a practice originating in race cars designed to reduce the weight of the rotor while the cooling properties are minimal if any.

    The holes have a tendancy to spider crack under heat strain and can reduce the overall life of the rotor by 50%...

    Slotting on the other hand is more beneficial and functional in the reduction of gas build up and brake fade. This set-up is better for longevity and performance on a street driven ride...